March 29, 1913 



HOETICUL.TURE 



467 



NOTES ON CULTURE OF FLORISTS' STOCK 



CONDUCTED BY 



Questions by our readers in line with any of the topics presented on this page will be cordially received and promptly answered 

 by Mr. Farrell. Such communications should Invariably be addressed to the office of HOKT.lCUL.iijKi!'. 



Canterbury Bells 



To have fine large plants of Campanula calycanthema 

 by next autumn seed should be sown now in pans or 

 flats. Mix up a compost of loam four parts, leaf mold 

 two parts, and sand one part. Give good drainage and 

 fill within half an inch of the top. Make surface smooth 

 and firm and on this sow the seed, but not too thickly. 

 Cover with finely sifted compost and press firmly. 

 These pans or flats can be placed in a temperature of 

 about 60 degrees at night until they have germinated. 

 When they are well up they can be placed in about 50 

 degrees and close to the glass, which will induce a stocky 

 growth. When large enough to handle conveniently, 

 they should be pricked off into pans or flats using a 

 richer mixture. Water very carefully. By the end of 

 May they can be planted about a foot apart in some rich 

 ground where with good cultivation they will make fine 

 plants by th? fall, with fine strong crowns for forcing. 



Cobaea scandens 



When there is a call for something that will cover a 

 large space in a short time there is nothing better than 

 Cobaea scandens. Sow in pans or flats with good drain- 

 age and a compost of loam three parts, leaf mold one 

 part and a little sand. The seed should be pressed 

 down edgewise into the soil about half an inch apart 

 and just covered lightly. Place where they will have a 

 temperature of from 60 to 65 degrees at night and some 

 bottom heat. Keep shaded and water very carefully 

 and a large per cent will germinate. When they start 

 to come up place near the glass and when large enough 

 to handle pot into 2V2-inch pots using rich soil. Grow 

 along cool and attend to staking as soon as they need it. 



They will need a shift into 3 or 4-inch pots in four or 

 five weeks. 



Cyperus alternifolius 



Cyperus are readily increased by propagation. Take 

 the tops with about an inch of the stem and trim the 

 whorl down some. These can be inserted in a warm 

 propagating bed and kept shaded and moist until they 

 become rooted, when they can be put in 3-inch pots, 

 using a compost of loam three parts, leaf mold and 

 cow manure one part each, and a little sand. When well 

 rooted they will want plenty of water as they are almost 

 aquatic in their nature. To grow them on fast they 

 will take a temperature of from 60 to 65 degrees at night. 

 Now that the sun is getting stronger they will require 

 shade all the time. Wliere you want to retain these 

 plants in small pots they should be plunged in some 

 material to keep them moist. To help to retain their 

 color they can have weak doses of liquid once a week. 

 By this treatment you can keep in small pots for an in- 

 definite period. 



Dahlias 



Dahlias have been much in fashion for several years 



and the quantity grown in several establishments is pro- 

 digious. Those placed on a bench the latter end of 

 February or early in March will soon be producing a 

 fine lot of cuttings. When large enough these can be 

 cut oS three or four joints long and inserted in the prop- 

 agating bed where they will soon root and should be 

 potted and grown on. After being once established in 

 the small pots they should have the fullest light and 

 plenty of syringing to keep down spider and thrips. 

 When well-rooted shift into 4-inch pots, using a compost 

 of fibrous loam three parts, well-rotted manure one part. 

 These are cool-blooded plants so should be grown in a 

 house where the temperature is about 50 to 55 degrees at 

 night. When the weather gets settled they can be 

 placed in a cold frame to be hardened off and can be kept 

 here until they are planted in the open ground the last 

 of May or the first of June. Florists should try some 

 new ones every year as there are some handsome types 

 produced each year; so keep up with the times and grow 

 some of the best. 



Ramblers for Memorial Day 



Eoses that you have been holding back for this date 

 should be brought into heat now. When first brought 

 into the greenhouse, allow a temperature of from 50 

 to 54 degrees at night ; and every morning if the weather 

 is at all clear, give a good syringing to thoroughly 

 dampen the wood. As soon as it is seen that the buds 

 are breaking, raise the temperature to 58 degrees at 

 night, and this may be maintained until the flower buds 

 appear. As these roses make active roots they will want 

 plenty of water at the roots so give them attention. When 

 they become covered with plenty of foliage and the buds 

 just peeking out you can improve them by giving weekly 

 doses of manure water. It should be borne in mind that 

 attacks from mildew or green fly are likely to happen 

 and careful attention to details with regard to fumi- 

 gating and ventilating, will have to be given in order to 

 avoid these troubles. Do not allow the plants to stand 

 too closely. Elevate good specimens on pots. It is a 

 good plan to force these roses so they will be out four 

 or five days ahead, which will allow them to be moved 

 into cooler quarters to harden them up which will make 

 them better able to stand in good shape for a longer 

 time. Keep staked and tied as they may require it. 



Pyrethrums 



The double pyrethrum makes a very desirable plant 

 for Memorial Day, so all plants that are intended for this 

 day should be far enough advanced to need 4-inch pots. 

 To grow and flower well they want a rich compost; say, 

 to two parts of fibrous loam use one part of cow manure 

 and pot firm. Give them a place where they can have 

 plenty of sun and ventilation as they like a cool atmos- 

 phere. They can be shifted into 5 or 6-inch pots by 

 the end of April. Keep the plants fumigated so the 

 green fly will not get a foothold. 



Mr. Farrell's next notes will be on the foHowing: dalanthes; Cyclamen; Ground for Carnations; Perennial Border; Stocic for 



Vases, Boxes and Baskets; Spiraeas (Astilbe). 



