March 29, 1913 



HORTICULTURE 



461 



FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CONnUCTKD BY 



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Questions by our readers In line with any of the topics presented on this page will be cordially received and promptly answered 

 by Mr. Penson. Such eommunicatlons should invariably be addressed to the office of HORTICULTURE. 



Second Swelling of Peaches and Nectarines 



Immediately the stoning process is completed the final 

 rush is commenced. There may be some fruits still in 

 excess of the desired number left on the trees; these 

 should be taken off at this, the final thinning. An ap- 

 proximate number should be set for each tree according 

 to the size of the pot it is growing in. Taking the aver- 

 age sized tree growing in a twelve-inch pot ; fifteen fruits 

 ought to be a crop for it. There is little fear of mishap 

 after this stage is reached. The temperature can be 

 raised to 65 to 70 at night if the fruits are wanted at 

 the earliest possible date. The day temperature will be 

 correspondingly high ; closing down the house in the 

 afternoon can be done early enough to raise the temper- 

 ature to 90 or 95. Syringing at this time will cause a 

 very humid atmosphere to counteract any possibility of 

 burning. At no time let the pots become dry enough to 

 cause the trees to wilt. Feed them daily if they dry out 

 oftener than once a day. Clear water is also beneficial; 

 feeding every time water is given the trees will demon- 

 strate one can get too much of a good thing. We find 

 top dressing with cow manure is not to be commended 

 for these early trees. Later when it is advisable to re- 

 strain the trees from drying out this will answer the 

 purpose. 



Pot Vines 



Pot vines that are seeking all the nourishment they 

 can get will have made roots through the bottom of the 

 pot into the leaves now forming a mulch for them. These 

 must not be forgotten. Seldom do we find these decay- 

 ing leaves dry but should such a condition exist soak 

 them thoroughly. An additional help to the vines will 

 be a rim of half decayed sod laid round the surface of 

 the pot leaving sufficient room for water in the center. 

 It may be necessary to fill this up twice when watering. 

 The roots will readily penetrate this new and sweet soil, 

 gathering stimulant as they go ; it also helps to keep the 

 ball moist. If it has been the habit to water the pots by 

 sounding them, due allowance must be made for the 

 soil being there. 



Spacing Spurs 



Vines will generally break or grow from every eye or 

 bud, providing nothing has injured it in the dormant 

 stage. As young vines grow up the "eyes" on the young 

 cane defermine where the spurs of the future shall be. 

 It is an easy matter at this stage to retain a spur just 

 anywhere you please ; after a reduction or thinning out 

 has taken place it is not so easy. Lost spurs on vines 

 are often a complete loss, so it behooves every one who is 

 building up young vines to see that the spurs are proper- 



ly placed. The distance between the eyes varies consid- 

 erably so that it is impossible to say how many should 

 be taken off; the distance between those remaining is 

 the only thing to be considered. Overcrowding of spurs 

 which in turn means overcrowding of laterals results in 

 poorly developed foliage, which in turn means fruit of 

 second rate quality. Each leaf must have room to ex- 

 pand itself without restraint. A knowledge of the va- 

 riety is very essential, as some attain dimensions double 

 that of their weaker sisters. Each year as a vine is be- 

 ing built up so much additional rod is left at pruning 

 time, which brings so many more laterals into growth 

 the following season ; these form the fixed station of the 

 spurs, so it is important that they are placed in the 

 right position. Where it is possible arrange them so 

 that they are "angled" — that is, a spur on the one side 

 of the rod should be in the center of two on the other 

 side. Approximate distances are, on weaker growing 

 varieties such as Muscat of Alexandria, eighteen inches ; 

 the stronger ones such as Princess of Wales, etc., two 

 feet. Often nothing like an exact job can be made but 

 get as near to it as is possible and practical. Rub out 

 all growths not wanted, soon after bursting; where two 

 are so placed or come from the same bud retain the 

 stronger. 



Care of Yoong Pot Vines 



Young vines intended for pot work should be moved 

 into suitable sized pots soon after filling out the present 

 ones with roots. It is a bad policy to let them become 

 rootbound in 4's or 6's. They will grow away after it, 

 'tis true, but the foliage already formed will become 

 stunted and hard and will not swell out as it ought to 

 do, which means a loss to the vine. As the sixes fill out 

 with roots prepare tens for them. This is quite a jump 

 but with ordinary care they will make it all right. The 

 soil should be of the best, enriched with a little coarse 

 bone meal, with some charcoal and lime-rubble to keep 

 it open. Have the soil in good condition when potting, 

 which leaves room for making it firm. A wet soil for 

 potting is very unsatisfactory. These canes can be 

 fruited next year and if intended for this should be 

 stopped at the required length. We have found that it 

 pays to grow them a second year, potting them on again 

 in the spring into fourteens. This being the case the 

 young canes can be run up ten feet or more. After 

 moving from the sixes it may be advisable to shade them 

 for a time if they are not receiving any shade from other 

 vines. Newspaper or cheese cloth will answer the pur- 

 pose if hung on the stakes as soon as signs of distress are 

 noticed. This is only intended to help them over the 

 shock of repotting and should be gradually withheld. 



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