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HORTICULTURE 



March 15, 1918 



FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CONDUCTED BX 



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y>Chrs^y 



Qnestions bv our renders In line with any of tlie topics presented ou this page will be cordially received and promptly answered 

 by Mr. Penson. Such eomniunications should Invariably be addressed to the office of HORTICULTURE. 



Setting Melons 



There appears to be a certain amount of luck attached 

 to securing large crops of melons — four and five to a 

 plant. It has been done and there is every possibility of 

 its occurring again, but who can say he is certain of 

 averaging that number? Three fruits to a plant, per- 

 fectly netted and finished, is a good crop. If it were 

 possible to average up the various crops grown in a year 

 I think it would not reach even three. The question be- 

 fore us is, how to increase the number of fruits to a 

 plant, after which comes the alternative, — does it pay 

 to carry more than three? After studying the thing out 

 my conclusion is that where fruits of good size are looked 

 for, three is enough. One of the freest setters that has 

 come under our notice is His Eminence (white flesh), 

 which has carried five and six fruits but invariably one- 

 half was not finished satisfactorily. Three, or occa- 

 sionally four, fruits are much better. Then again there 

 are those that prefer small fruits, so it is the demand 

 that, to a great extent, must regulate the supply, yet 

 it must be remembered that there are those varieties that 

 never attain the size of others when grown one on a plant. 

 To have the largest number of fruits to a plant an even 

 set is essential. In the winter it is impossible to open 

 more than one flower a day but large crops are not to be 

 considered then. From now on several will open about 

 the same time and it is these that must be looked to. 

 Get all you can open in one day and fertilize them. This 

 is the keynote. A second is, make sure the pollen on the 

 male fiower is dry before inserting it. After a few days' 

 swelling one is liable to take a flying start ; this one must 

 be eliminated in the interest of those remaining ; other- 

 wise, the probability is that those left behind will turn 

 yellow and decay. Get them all away together and keep 

 them "coming." Firm beds will assist in keeping a 

 crop even and do away with very rank growth. Make a 

 bed up loose and the probability is you get one large 

 fruit (perhaps an eight-pounder). 



Strawberries 



In the south strawberries have been in season for some 

 time. Further north the greenhouse will have to supply 

 this, the most popular of berries, equal in size and flavor 

 to those that will come later from the garden. There is 

 only one place in a greenliouse to get the right flavor in 

 the berries and that is near the ventilators. Plenty of 

 sun and air is what they require. A shelf near the top 

 ventilators will be an ideal place for them. With the 

 first color showing in the berries stop feeding, but do not 

 diminish the clear water supply. This means that twice 

 a day they ought to be looked over. In mild weather 

 leave a crack of air on all night. It is useless to assume 

 that good flavored berries can be grown with the plants 

 standing down on a bench and the house run to suit 

 other stuff. 



Heeling In Peach Trees 



Soon after the final reduction of the growths those 

 remaining will need attention, to train them in the way 



that they should go. This consists of a tie put neatly 

 around each growth and the wood that it is growing on, 

 drawing the young and old together; this starts the 

 youngsters oft' in the right direction and is known as 

 "heeling in." If this is omitted until later the stronger 

 growths will not lie so close and thus form a bend in the 

 wood, giving the tree an appearance of so many young 

 moons. The greatest advantage is that with a pressure 

 of other work the growths can be left to take care of 

 themselves for sometime. 



Syringing 



Syringing at this time of year must be done thought- 

 fully, especially the afternoon work. Any house that is 

 doubtful of drying up before night must be left and 

 damping alone will supply the moisture. Crops going 

 into the night wet are liable to contract many and varied 

 diseases. ^Vhe^e there is any possibility of anything 

 not drying up after syringing give them a good shake to 

 dislodge the water. Morning syringing ought to be done 

 as the house is nicely warming up from the approaching 

 sun. Be thorough in this work and reach the corners 

 and ends with all the force the foliage is able to stand. 



Cherries 



Cherries mature quickly after setting. Seldom is it 

 necessary to reduce the quantity of fruits. More than 

 often there is a scarcity when forced early. Frequent 

 applications of lime water will help them through the 

 stoning period, after which a little feeding can be given 

 in the form of quick-acting manures. Cherries will 

 ripen without any great heat; 55 F. at night with the 

 usual advance by day will be sufiicient. 



Early Watermelons 



A New Mexico reader who is going to raise early water 

 melons sends along an interesting letter and very wisely 

 gives us his climatic conditions there. The following is 

 his plan: Plant in an east-and-west house about 18 

 inches from the glass in strawberry baskets, about four 

 seeds in each on or about the 15th of March. Grow them 

 here until 15th of May and then plant in the field, keep- 

 ing the temperature just above freezing during the night 

 while ventilating freely during the day. 



The questions that arise are these : 



Will the water melon plants that have been thinned to 

 two in a basket be too large to transplant with safety — 1. e., 

 without starving them, or too small? Will the probable 

 bearing period be advanced one month or less? Ought the 

 glass to be shaded or direct sunlight given? 



Your system seems very practical, very similar to 

 what we have practiced here. Would advise you to 

 make three sowings until you are sure of an approxi- 

 mate date,- — say about ten days or two weeks apart. The 

 bearing period will be advanced about one month. Give 

 the plants full sunlight all the time. Would not let the 

 night temperature below 45 or the plants are liable to 

 get stunted. Greater success would be insured by using 

 small frames and sash over the plants after plaL^g out; 

 in 60 doing a little sun heat can be retained. 



