;i2 



HORTICULTURE 



April 5, 1913 



are a number in the market. Aphine, 

 an American remedy and X L All, an 

 English preparation, are both excel- 

 lent for this purpose. Thrips are a 

 great deal more troublesome on the 

 rambler type of rose than on the other 

 kind. It is large white thrips which 

 causes the yellow, sickly appearance 

 in rambler foliage which is only too 

 common. The same remedies will de- 

 stroy thrips as are recommended tor 

 aphis. Red spiders are sometimes 

 troublesome on the outdoor roses, but 

 if the hose is within reach and they 

 be thoroughly and forcefully syringed 

 on the underside of the leaves, the 

 spider will be easily controlled. The 

 rose bug or beetle is a rather dis- 

 gusting and a very difficult pest to 

 control, and if they are not too nu- 

 merous, handpicking is at once the 

 simplest and most efficient means of 

 destroying them, as they easily fall 

 off. A sheet may be spread on the 

 ground and the bushes shaken over 

 it. After gathering the beetles this 

 way they may be destroyed by burn- 

 ing or by putting them in kerosene. 

 Most of the different caterpillars 

 which prey upon the foliage of the 

 rose may be killed by spraying with 

 arsenate of lead, one pound to ten 

 gallons of water. This is a safe and 

 effective spray for all the biting in- 

 sects, and the wise thing to do is to 

 spray early and spray several times 

 through the summer on the principle 

 that prevention is better than cure. 

 Remember that you are dealing with 

 two kinds of insects; biting, such as 

 the beetles and caterpillars, and suck- 

 ing insects such as aphis and thrips, 

 for those that eat the leaves use a 

 poison like arsenate of lead and for 

 those that suck the juices of the plant 

 use tobacco and soap sprays. The 

 larvae of the June bug, a large white 

 grub that spends three years in the 

 soil before emerging as the full-fledged 

 bug, sometimes does serious damage 

 by feeding upon the roots of roses and 

 should you find out that they are 

 working at the roots or that there are 



SUMMER BEDDING IN LORING PARK, MINNEAPOLIS. 



i-'rnamental Grasses and Subtropical fuliage. 



many In the beds, make holes about 

 a toot apart and four or five inches 

 deep and pour a spoonful of bisulphide 

 of carbon into each hole, covering it 

 up quickly so that the gas will diffuse 

 all through the soil. 



Fungoid Diseases, 

 Mildew is naturally the first of 

 these to come to mind and is perhaps 

 the worst. Sulphur dusted over the 

 foliage with a bellows is one of the 

 commonest remedies, but liver of sul- 

 phur, one ounce dissolved in ten gal- 

 lons of water and sprayed on the 

 foliage, is by far away the best, both 

 as a cure and as a preventive. Black 

 spot and orange fungus are both very 

 destructive at times, for which the 

 liver of sulphur is the best remedy 



SUMMER BEDDING IN LORING PARK, MINNEAPOLIS. 



Mixed Borders of Cannas, Cladioli. etc. 



known to me. But cleanliness and 

 general good cultivation are among the 

 best preventives for nearly all dis- 

 eases. 



Winter Protection. 



Most of the roses require some de- 

 gree of winter protection if grown, 

 say north of Philadelphia. The climb- 

 ing roses will come through the aver- 

 age winter if a few evergreen branch- 

 es are tied over them to keep the sun 

 from them. But the Teas, hybrid teas, 

 and hybrid perpetuals must have 

 something more, especially to protect 

 them from the ravages of field mice, 

 which cause great destruction in some 

 places by gnawing all the bark away 

 for three or four inches near the base. 

 The only way to prevent this as far 

 as I know, is the banking of some 

 soil or manure suflSciently high, so 

 that even if the mice eat the plant 

 above there will be enough wood left 

 to start again. The protection that 

 this soil or manure affords is that 

 freezing hard, the mice are kept away 

 from so much of the plant as Is cov- 

 ered. Beyond this, evergreen branches 

 or any coarse litter will answer for 

 further covering. But any very tender 

 roses had better be bent over and en- 

 tirely covered with soil. You will 

 note that I have made no special men- 

 tion of standard roses. The treatment 

 of these will be the same as the 

 others, the only difference being that 

 they will require more elaborate win- 

 ter protection. Grafted on rugosa 

 stocks, they may, with great care, be 

 laid over and buried with soil. If this 

 is not possible a good covering with 

 straw bound around them and sup- 

 ported by a stout stake will do. 



The successful grower of roses 

 must be an optimist, as there is much 

 to contend with, but the reward is 

 commensurate with the effort, and as 

 Dean Hole so beautifully expresses it: 

 "He who would have beautiful roses 

 in his garden must have beautiful 

 roses in his heart. He must love them 

 well and always." 



