March 22, 1913 



HOETICULTUEE 



413 



FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CONDUCTED Bt 



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Questions by our readers In line with any of the topics presented on this page will be cordially received and promptly answered 

 by Mr. Penson. Such communications should Invariably be addressed to the office of HOKTICULTDRE. 



Stopping and Tying the G»ape Vine 



Stopping the gi-owths of a grape vine should be sys- 

 tematized to secure the best results. Young vines mak- 

 ing the first year's growth do not come under this head- 

 ing to the extent of the fully developed ones. If the 

 younger canes are allowed to grow away more natural 

 it will promote a greater root action which is desirable. 

 See that the part of the cane which is to form the first 

 portion of the rod is kept straight and free from lateral 

 growths, after which two or three "leaders" can be taken 

 up if desired and allowed to "run." 



With the older vines things are difEerent ; the spur sys- 

 tem will be in vogue and the proper stopping of laterals 

 must be attended to. If two eyes were left at pruning 

 time and both break, rub out the weaker one; where 

 both are of equal strength retain the one likely to make 

 the most compact spur. When the laterals are from six 

 to eight inches long the tiny flower trusses can be seen 

 and soon afterwards the leaves beyond expand. Wait un- 

 til two are visible and then pinch out or "stop" the 

 lateral growth. Do not mind how short it all seems at 

 this time; they will always pull out. In time sub-lateral 

 growths will push out from the axil of the leaves. Those 

 between the bunch and the spur should be rubbed out 

 completely. The two leaves beyond the bunch should be 

 allowed to develop one sub-lateral leaf each, making four 

 altogether beyond the bunch. All subsequent growths 

 should be rubbed out as they appear. In this way aU 

 the strength possible is thrown into the bunch. Do not 

 be in a great hurry to tie the laterals down; they are 

 very brittle in the young stage ; later the growths will be 

 more pliable. Keeping them away from the glass will 

 be all that is necessary for quite a while. 



Apples and Pears 



Apples and pears that were started early will have 

 made their own natural thinning ere this, so much so in 

 some instances that any further reduction will not be 

 needed. Where there is still an excess and the fruits are 

 swelling nicely reduce them to one to the spur. Do not 

 be over-anxious about this job or a total loss may be ex- 

 perienced. There is a growing look to some fruits right 

 from the start while others are always doubtful until 



half matured. The trees will take regular feed from 

 now on and on no account let them become dry at the 

 roots. 



Apircoti 



Apricots are difficult to handle in pots. A set has to 

 be secured to start with, which at times is not easy. 

 Keep an even temperature after this and help the trees 

 along. Any stimulants given must be weak. As the 

 stone is forming, a little lime should be mixed into the 

 water. Let it be put in the water and not on the surface 

 of the soil; by doing so a better solution is given the 

 roots and the danger of the lime caking on the surface 

 soil is thus avoided. 



Late Houses 



In some states the late houses will be swelling their 

 buds fast at this date. Cooler localities may have to 

 wait another week or so before noticing any movement. 

 Where this house is to be kept back as late as possible, a 

 minimum night temperature of 40 degrees is all the 

 change that need be made; open up the house as usual 

 through the day. As the buds show signs of bursting 

 a more congenial atmosphere must be offered them. 

 There is a danger of keeping the house too cool after 

 reaching this stage; laterals will be very short-jointed; 

 the bunch will be too close to the rod and itself be short 

 and stubby. A careful watch must be accorded them 

 and the temperature raised accordingly. If the border 

 is on the dry side see that it has a thorough watering 

 without delay. 



Vine Cracking 



Am sorry I cannot enlighten G. W. W. on his Muscat 

 of Alexandria vine cracking at intervals for a distance 

 of four to five feet from the top on the west side only, 

 especially as the present growths are in good shape. 

 Had there been any weakness or irregularity on these it 

 might be accounted for. I presume the same prepara- 

 tion was used for cleaning the rods throughout the house. 

 Muscat of Alexandria is one of the most tender grapes 

 we have but this theory cannot be followed, as only a 

 section is affected. Should watch them closely through 

 the growing season to ascertain if it is spreading, as in 

 all probability it is a disease of some kind. Have any 

 other readers experienced similar conditions or can they 

 account for this one? 



the growers could only realize how very particular the 

 people who buy from retailers are, they would no doubt 

 be a little more careful in handling their cut blooms at 

 home. The very first thing a lady buyer sees is a crushed 

 leaf or a bruised petal and of course the roses are not 

 fresh any more. It is very true that roses that have 

 been bruised badly will hardly open up as well as those 

 that have been handled "witlr gloves on." 



Fumigation 

 Never allow this to remain unattended to or you will 



no doubt have cause to regret it. Here again the grow- 

 ers ought to see the shocking expression on the young 

 lady's face when she discovers the roses she has pur- 

 chased and prized so highly are "alive." That is a bad 

 thing for the retailers and in spite of the hours spent 

 daily in polishing the flowers, once in a while a complaint 

 comes that "there were T)ugs' on the roses, etc., that your 

 boy delivered to us this morning, and unless they can get 

 better flowers they will not buy any." We think the 

 trade is hurt a good deal this way, as if there is any- 

 thing the people detest it is "bugs." 



