December 5, 1908 



HORTICULTURE 



Grapes Under Glass 



737 



many roots die 



The grapery here illustrated is a 

 part of the range of glass built by 

 Lord & Burnham Co. for Mrs. F. F. 

 Thompson of Canandaigua, N. Y., 

 in 1!)02. The picture was taken 

 when the vines were four years old. 

 The varieties grown are Black Ham- 

 burg, Muscat of Alexandria, Buck- 

 land Sweetwater, Foster's Seedling, 

 Black Alicante, Gros Colnian, 

 Golden Queen, and Melton Con- 

 stable, the latter a good late grape 

 of Colman type, but much better 

 flavor. By request I will give a 

 few notes on my method of culture 

 commencing with the treatment 

 from now on (November 1). 



The early house is clear of fruit, 

 the side and top ventilation are open 

 day and night to ripen the wood; 

 the border is examined and if too 

 dry is given a good watering as I 

 believe a dry border to be the cause 

 of many failures in grape culture 

 as the surface or feeding roots are 

 kept near the top of the border and 

 for want of moisture. 



PRUNING AND CLEANING 



After the leaves have fallen and the wood is thor- 

 oughly ripened the vines are taken down and pruned. 

 I practice the spur system but it takes experience and 

 good judgment to prune a vine. After the cuts are dry 

 I cover with Thompson's Styptic, a preparation to pre- 

 vent bleeding, which often happens when the vine starts. 



The next operation is cleaning the vines which is very 

 important. Remove all loose bark by hand, working 

 carefully around the spurs to avoid damaging the buds 

 and keeping a sharp eye out for that awful pest, the 

 mealy bug. The vines are now washed with a solution 

 of fir tree oil using about a gill to a pail of water. The 

 house is also thoroughly washed with strong soap; this 

 is very essential to keep the house free of bugs as precau- 

 tion is better than a cure when it comes to keeping the 

 grapery clean. 



Everything now being clean, the vines are tied down 

 as near the ground as possible and covered with any- 

 thing that will keep the sun from striking them, helping 

 to keep the vines dormant until starting time. If the 

 weather is very severe I turn on enough heat to keep 

 from freezing, holding the temperature about 35 degrees 

 as the house must be kept cool and dry. 



STARTING 



The first week in February I begin to force. After 

 removing all loose soil for an inch or two, being careful 

 not to disturb the roots, the border is filled to a level 

 with fresh soil then forked up lightly and watered 

 thoroughly. I may add here that this border is all in- 

 side, filled with 3 feet of soil from an old pasture. The 

 bottom of the border is a natural bed of shale rock with 

 6 inches of broken stone on top which carries away the 

 water, making the drainage perfect. 



The border having been thoroughly watered the house 

 is started slowly at a temperature of 45 degrees by night 

 and 65 degrees by day, syringing the vines two or three 

 times daily and keeping pans of water on the pipes for 

 evaporation. Air is admitted freely in sunny weather 

 and at all times allowing as much air to pass through 

 the ventilators as is consistent with the proper degree of 

 temperature. In three or four days I give a dressing 



of Thompson's vine manure, about two pounds per yard 

 super, following with a light watering. 



CARE DURING THE FLOWERING PERIOD 



About the 25th the temperature is raised 5 degrees 

 more allowing the sun heat to become more powerful. 

 The vines being broken along the whole rod they are 

 tied to the wires, and the air syringed frequently to keep 

 moist by evaporation. 



The first growth is very rapid. I allow the shoots to 

 grow until the lower leaves are pretty well expanded 

 and the flowers well formed. Any disbudding can be 

 done at this time if possible, being careful as they are 

 very easily broken. Pinching is also done now, cutting 

 back to the first or second eye beyond the fruit. I 

 again increase the temperature slowly GO to 65 degrees 

 by day rising to 85 degrees with sun heat and 60 at 

 night. Increase towards the last of the month 70 to 75 

 degrees by day, allowing the sun to raise as high as 95 

 degrees, keeping 70 degrees at night. At this stage 

 plenty of air is essential, syringing constantly until the 

 vines are in flower ; then I stop syringing until the fruit 

 is set when it is again done freely and the pans filled 

 with water. 



THINNING FRUIT AND FINISHING 



Now comes a very important part of the work, thin- 

 ning the fruit, which requires good judgment and pa- 

 tience. I go over a second time and, as the berries 

 swell, support the shoulders by tying to the cane or 

 branches above. At this time I give another light 

 dressing of Thompson's manure, 1 lb. to the yard super, 

 and water the border, reducing the temperature slowly 

 to 80 degrees by day and 60 degrees at night, paying 

 strict attention to air, watering and pinching to finish 

 the crop. 



As soon as the berries begin to color all syringing is 

 stopped, bottom air admitted slowly and increasing, 

 gradually reducing the water at the roots. When the 

 fruit is ripe the house is kept cool and dry until it is cut. 



'/fav&: £■ &*^e< 



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Canandaigua, N. Y. 



