160 horticultural JVbtes, 



grafted on our native stock if desirable. It is not as hardy as our native chestnut, 

 and would require the advantage of more favored localities. 



Choosing Dwarf J'enrs. 



In choosing Dwarf Pears, select those that have been budded close to the ground, 

 as when they are replanted, the stocks should be hurried an inch below the pear 

 scion, which prevents the attacks of the quince borer. If a long stem has to be 

 buried, tlie usual consequences of deep planting result, and do as much injury as the 

 quince borer. Also in choosing, select, if possible, plants that have been raised 

 from cuttings, for layered stocks have always a long deep tap-looking root, on which 

 dwarf pears do not do well. If we have to use such dwarf pear trees, better shorten 

 some of the long trunk root before planting. Never plant what appears to be the 

 stem of a tree far beneath the surface, under any circumstances, for disease will be 

 most probably an ultimate consequence. — Gardener^s Mo7i1hly. 



Jtiiisliuj fruit in the Shade. 



A writer in the Fruit Recorder, contributes the results of experiments in raising 

 fruits in the shade : 



A parishioner objected to planting raspberries because he had no place for them 

 except the north side of his barn. 



In 18(33, I planted two rows of raspberries about sixty feet long, and three feet 

 apart, in the rows directly west from a two-story building, and under the north side 

 of a tight board fence, so that they got no sun till afternoon, and not more than 

 two or three hours of any day ; and from that plantation we have picked two bushels 

 in a season of Red Antwerps and Briuckle's Orange, that were the admiration of 

 our neighbors. 



The finest Black-caps I ever raised, were directly under the north side of a high 

 barn. 



I have raised a full crop of strawberries — Russell's, in the same location, and 

 thus lengthened out the strawberry season, as they ripened a week latter than those 

 that'had the full benefit of the sun. 



Successful Culture of Strntvherries. 



In response to a question from an anxious small fruit grower how to manage his 

 strawberries, the Western Rural gives him this byway, as a table of commandments : 



Set out in the spring good strong plants, upon deeply plowed, and if possible, new 

 land, in rows three feet apart by twelve inches in the row. Keep the ground 

 thoroughly clean, and the runners cut ofi" as fast as they appear during the season. 

 Do not allow them to bear the first season, since the crop will not pay you, and it 

 will weaken the plants. Pinch off the blossoms as they appear. 



About the time the ground freezes up, cover the bed about three inches thick with 

 slough hay, or some other clean material. When the vines really show sigris of 

 growth, not before, uncover the plants along the rows, allowing the mulch to remain 

 between the rows, until after they have fruited. 



Having done as above, you should get a full crop of the finest berries. The 

 mulch not only keeps the soil moist, and the berries from contact with the earth, 

 but its principal value in the spring, besides protecting the plants in winter, is to 

 keep back growth early in the season, thereby retarding the blossoming until danger 

 of frosts are over. 



Many persons imagine that it is better to let the runners grow, but with some 

 varieties this will be the case to such a degree, as to prevent their fruiting, and such 

 vines are always non-paying. It really costs less to clean and pick the crops under 

 the hill system, than under the old fashioned one of letting them run. 



