'Pro2^(ig(itioii by Tiuddhtg. 



213 



advisable to take off as little wood as possible — nor need there be, with good sized 

 shoots, but a trifle, if any, save just at the root of the bud. To the novice the removal 

 of the wood, without injury to the root of the bud, is a delicate operation, and often 

 results in failure and discouragement. A little care and perseverance, however, on 

 the part of the operator, will enable him to overcome this difficulty. 



There are two conditions of plants indispensable to success in budding ; firsts a 

 thrifty growth of the stalk so that the bark will slip freely ; second, good, ripe buds, 

 which may generally be known by their perfect development at the base of the leaves, 

 and by the shield or bark to which the buds are attached, separating easily from the 

 wood — and in short by the general firmness and ripeness of the shoots. 



Plums and cherries should be budded early, whilst peaches may be set the latter 

 part of the budding season — even into September some seasons. Apples and pears 

 may be set from the beginning of the budding season — if the buds are ripe — until the 

 last of August, though the early part of the month is the best time. However, the 

 time for commencing operations, in the budding line, varies considerably, according 

 to the season. It answers as well to begin the 15th or the 20th of July, in some 

 seasons and localities, as the first of August in others. 



Before commencing operations, have your bud sticks in readiness, and a thin, keen 

 edged knife, with a supply of material for tying up the buds. For this purpose, the 

 inner bark of basswood or elm are perhaps the best material for bands ; corn husks, 

 cotton wicking and woolen yarn are also used with success. 



Having selected a smooth place on the stock upon which the bud is to be inserted, 

 preferring the north or east side, make a perpendicular incision through the bark 

 an inch or more in length, and at the top of this a cross cut, as in fig. 2. Then 

 with the point of the knife, or with its half, if you have a regular ivory handled 

 budding knife, raise or loosen the bark from the stock on each side of the incision, 

 being very careful not to bruise either the bark or sap wood beneath, as in fig. 3. 

 As speedily as possible, and with a clean, smooth cut, take off a bud, as in fig. 6, 

 from a stick of buds with a very little wood attached, fig. a ; when this wood is 

 loose it may be removed by putting the edge of the knife under, and between it and 

 the bark, and lifting it up, taking care not to pull out the root of the bud, fig. b. 



rig. 6. 



Fig. 7. 



