174 Grafting the ^ine. 



on outside work now, especially when they wish to make a flat color without gloss. 

 Oil alone, especially with zinc lead, gives a rich satin gloss. This, for the inside of 

 houses, adds much to the appearance of the paint. To paints which do not have this 

 gloss property in themselves, it is imparted by mixing a little varnish. Doors are 

 usually painted oak or walnut color. This may be bought already mixed for use 

 (called training colors) more conveniently to the farmer than to get the tinge him- 

 self. Umber is generally used. 



For fences and the lower class of farm buildings the" idea of the farmer is gener- 

 ally to get something cheap. We have always seen that the best is in the end the 

 cheapest. The object of painting is to keep out moisture, and thus prevent wood 

 from decay. Hence, a paint which does this perfectly is the best, even if it cost 

 twice as much. A cheap mineral or earth paint may be very good, but when the 

 question of renewing is taken into consideration, it may not be so cheap or so good 

 as a paint that costs more but lasts longer. We have indicated such in the zinc lead, 

 but for the general uses of the farm we think its mixture with some of the ochres, 

 mineral or metallic paints would be of great use. 



In oil, always get the best linseed you can. Never use petroleum. It doesn't pay 

 in the end by a great deal. Porgie or menhaden oil is good for very common work; 

 but on houses, or anything nice, use as pure linseed as you can buy. For farm uten- 

 sils, on wood work, we would advise using the best paint ; tint it if you want color ; 

 on the iron or steel, red lead is, perhaps, the best material you can get. The farmer 

 can now, if he chooses, so great have been the improvements in the trade, buy his 

 paints mixed up, ready for use. These save him much labor in mixing and tinting. 



G-rafting the Pine. 



BY W. C. HAMPTON, MOUNT VICTORY, OHIO. 



IN my first attemps at grafting the pine, I met with many failures (and T believe 

 this is the case with nearly all nurserymen in the United States), until I adopted 

 the following method under which failures seldom occur. 



The process is as follows : — From the Middle of February to the end of March, 

 I take from the open ground young thrifty trees, about \ ox \ inch in diameter, 

 preserving the roots as entire as possible ; these I plant in boxes or pots, and place 

 in a cool and rather shady place in the greenhouse, until the young growth begins 

 to push out. 



I then graft in the stem by the usual method of side grafting, much as recom- 

 mended in Hoopes' Book of Evergreens. I use the strongest terminal shoots I can 

 get for scions, which are carefully waxed over after setting. 



The plant is then placed in a shady but rather warmer place, and to make the 

 scion push its buds, every other bud on the stock is carefully removed as fast as 

 they appear ; this throws all of the strength of the plant into the scion, which soon 

 starts with great vigor. 



In a month or two when the scion is well healed in, the entire top of the stock 

 may be removed. The great secret of success lies in keeping all the young growth 

 on the stock removed, and unless you attend to this faithfully, failure will be the 

 result. Pinus Massoniana and P. pungens, will grow on Pinus Sylvestris with 

 scarcely a failure. 



The varieties with two, three and five leaves in a sheath, should be grafted on 

 some stock having the same number of leaves in a sheath. 



