CHAPTER 4 



Uses of Sea Urchins 



a. As Food 



Sea urchins have been used by man as food since ancient times, 

 especially around the Mediterranean and in tropical countries. Only cer- 

 tain species are edible and only the gonads; both sexes are usually 

 used, but in some places only one sex, usually the female. In general 

 they are eaten raw, often with a little lemon, but in some places they 

 are cooked. 



The ancient Greeks and Romans used sea urchins [echini] as food 

 together with oysters and clams; they are mentioned by Epicharmus 

 (b. ca. 540 B.C.), Archippus (ca. 415 B.C.), Aristotle (384-322 B.C.), 

 Ennius (239-169 B.C.), Horace (68-8 B.C.), PUny 23-79 A.D.), Athe- 

 naeus (ca. 228 A.D.) and many others. Sea urchin shells have been 

 found in the kitchens of Pompeii (Kellar, 19 13). Sea urchins usually 

 preceded the main course of a dinner, and were often highly seasoned 

 "with honey, vinegar, parsley and mint" (Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae 

 iii. 91). Several authors have written of the famous supper of Len- 

 tulus when he was made priest of Mars, at which echini were the first 

 dish (see Pennant, 1777, p. 68). They were also cooked, and several 

 recipes have been handed down by the gourmet of ancient times, 

 Apicius (80 B.C.-40 A.D.). Among them is the following: "Put the 

 urchins singly in boiling water, cook. To the meat thus cooked, add 

 a sauce made of bay leaves, pepper, honey broth, a little oil, bind with 

 eggs, sprinkle with pepper and serve." 



In Italy, sea urchins are known as ricci di mare, and together with 

 oysters and other sea food a.sfruUa di mare. In Naples they are sold in 

 the markets and by the fishermen along the water front. Paracentrotus 

 lividus is the form usually eaten; Sphaerechinus granularis is also eaten 

 but mostly by the fishermen; it is difficult to get because it lives in 

 deep water and occurs mostly only around Gajola. Psammechinus micro- 

 tuberculatus is too small and Arbacia lixula is not eaten. The native 

 fishermen have the curious idea that Arbacia are the males and not 

 edible, and Paracentrotus are the females and edible, so that one asks for 



