[1879. 



AND HORTICULTURIST. 



109 



also be examined before setting out for any 

 "borers" that may be feeding in the stems 

 near the collar of the tree. Often the destruc- 

 tive insects are introduced into places in this | 

 quiet way that knew them not before. 



In planting dwarf Pears, it is very important j 

 to have them on a spot that has a moist subsoil, 

 either naturally or made so by snbsoiling or mix- 

 ing some material with the soil that will give out 

 moisture in dry weather. Trees already planted 

 on a dry gravelly subsoil, should have a circle 

 dug out two feet deep, and two or three feet 

 from the tree. This should be filled up with 

 well-enriched soil. If the dwarf Pear does not 

 grow freely, it is a sign that something is wrong. 

 It should at once be severely pruned, so as to 

 aid in producing a vigorous growth. 



Strawberry beds are frequently made at this 

 season, and though they will not bear fruit the 

 same year, are much more certain to grow, and 

 will produce a much better crop next year than 

 when left till next August. Tliough it is a very 

 common recommendation, we do not value a 

 higlily manured soil. It should be well trenched 

 or'subsoiled; this we coi>sider of great value. 

 In rich soils there is too much danger of having 

 more leaves than fruit. 



Buds that were inoculated last Fall should 

 not be forgotten ; but as soon as vegetation has 

 pushed forth, the buds should be examined, and 

 all other issues from the old stock taken away. 

 It may also be necessary to make a tie, in order 

 to get tlie young shoot of the bud to go in the way 

 from whichyou would not hereafter have it depart. 

 Grafting can be continued till the buds of the 

 trees are nearly puslied into leaf. Sometimes, 

 from a pressure of other work, some valuable 

 scions have been left on hand too late to work. 

 It may be interesting to know, that if such sci- 

 ons are put into the ground, much the same as 

 if they were cuttings, they will keep good for 

 six weeks or two months, by which time the 

 bark will run freely, when the scions may be 

 treated as buds, and will succeed just as well as 

 buds taken from young summer shoots. 



Few things mark a well-kept garden better 

 than an abundance of all kinds of herbs. ISow 

 is the time to make the beds. Sage, thyme and 

 lavender grow from slips, which may be set in 

 now, precisely as if an edging of box were to 

 be made of them. They grow very easily. 

 Basil and sweet marjoram must be sown in a 

 rich, warm border. Salsafy and scorzonera like 

 a damp, rich soil. 



Celery, with most families, is an important 

 crop, and should be sown about this period. A 

 very rich, moist spot, that will be shaded from 

 the mid-day April sun, should be chosen, — or a 

 box in a frame, by those who have the conveni- 

 ences. 



It is not a good plan to cut all the asparagus 

 shoots as soon as they appear. A few sprouts 

 should always be left to grow from each, to 

 strengthen the plants. 



Lettuce, for a second crop of salad, should be 

 sown about the end of the month. The Drum- 

 head cabbage is usually sown for a summer 

 crop ; but the old kinds of cos lettuce would, no 

 doubt, be found very valuable in rich soils. 



Dwarf beans should have very warm and 

 deep soil — sow them only two inches apart. 

 The Valentine is yet the best early, take it all 

 in all. 



Bean poles may be planted preparatory to- 

 sowing the Lima bean in May. Where bean. 



poles are scarce, two or three hoop poles, set 

 into the ground one foot from each other, and 

 tied together at the top, make as good a pole, 

 and perhaps better. 



In tield culture tomatoes are rarely if ever 

 staked. The plants lie on the ground and take 

 care of themselves. It probably would not 

 pay for the extra expense of staking in such 

 cases, as the stakes would be in the way of the 

 horse-hoe and demand so much more hand-labor 

 to keep the weeds down. Yet we are not sure 

 but that some plan of staking would be profit- 

 able for all this extra labor •, for the tomatoes 

 are much more abundant, more numerous, and 

 of better flavor when staked than when suffered 

 to ramble over the ground. 



For garden culture there is no doubt about its- 



