146 



THE GARDENER'S MONTHLY 



[May, 



fore finger of the right hand and twist it side- 

 ways and it will come off, leaving the wood cut 

 witli it on the limb ; then thrust the lower point 

 of the bud in the cut in the seedling fully half 

 way in; then with thumb-nail, or side of the 

 thumb, push down, so that the bud just fits in 

 the stock. We tie with bass matting, cut about 

 one foot long and in strips quarter of an inch 

 wide, making three or four wraps and tie in a 

 single knot in front of the bud. The ties have to be 

 loosened in ten days to two weeks, according to 

 the growth of the tree. They are slit by the 

 knife about half way up of the mat, directly 

 back of the bud. It does not injure the tree by 

 the knife cutting through the bark. After this 

 there is nothing needed until the next spring, 

 Avhen the tops are cut oif close above the bud, 

 any time after March 1st until the buds be- 

 gin to grow. Now this is our mode, but it de- 

 pends a great deal on the performer, who must 

 strain every nerve and guard against every false 

 motion, making as few as possible to do the 

 work. It takes time and experience to get so 

 that one can set 5000 buds properly. 



SHELTER FOR ORCHARDS. 



BY JAMES M. HAYES, DOVER, N. H. 



We have noticed of late quite a number of 

 articles in different publications in regard to shel- 

 ter for orchards, the most of them taking the 

 position that shelter, in a maiority of cases, is 

 injurious to fruit trees ; that orchards do much 

 better where the wind and air can circulate un- 

 obstructed through them. My experience leads 

 me to accept these views in the main. But, 

 stop, in advocating such ideas are we not tread- 

 ing upon new ground? Have not the horticultu- 

 ral Solons been teaching for years that the only 

 path to success in fruit culture was by protecting 

 our orchards from the north and west winds ? 

 Xow, some of the best orchards I am ac- 

 quainted with are planted upon a northern or 

 western exposure, where the full force of the 

 winds are felt. I have a pear orchard set in a 

 similar position which has grown well and pro- 

 duced excellent fruit, and very few of the trees 

 have died from blight or any other cause ; while 

 I am acquainted with an orchard near by that 

 suffers more or less every winter ; every spring 

 some of the'trees are found dead, caused by freez- 

 ing and thawing'during the winter. This orchard 

 is in a warm position, protected from the cold 

 winds. The sap in the trees freezes, and then 



when the sun in warm days thaws it the tree is 

 ruined. This is the disadvantage of too warm 

 positions. Then I would say to some who are 

 deterred from planting orchards because they 

 consider their locations too bleak and cold, try a 

 few trees and you may find you have one of the 

 best positions for an orchard — better, I believe, 

 than a warm sheltered valley. 



CRAPES AND PLANTS. 



BY H. CORBETT, GARDENER TO MRS. RESOR, 

 CLIFTON, CINCINNATI, OHIO. 



There seems to be great difficulty found in 

 growing grapes and plants together. I have 

 had good success in growing both, and will give 

 my experience to your correspondents, hoping 

 it may be of some benefit to fliem. 



Grapes and plants can be grown together in 

 the one house, whether it be used as an early or 

 late vinery. 1 am convinced that either house 

 may be run and kept at any temperature the 

 person in charge may deem proper, even from 

 the forcing of roses or any other plant requiring 

 a high temperature down to any kind of half 

 hardy plants, and have good satisfaction from 

 both, if he has ever had practice with the 

 vine. 



Now J. H. in his article says he keeps his tem- 

 perature from thirty-five to forty degrees in order 

 to keep his vines dormant and the plants just 

 growing, which may be all that he cares to do, oi-; 

 has ever tried to do. Now whoever will try 

 my system will find it give satisfaction. 



Taking the late vinery — after the vines are 

 well ripened and pruned — take them from the 

 wires, laying them along the front of the house, 

 about nine inches from the boards, wall, or 

 glass, keeping them as near the ground as possi- 

 ble, so that they may be covered entirely over 

 with soil about four inches deep. This covering 

 of soil will keep them back much longer, and also 

 prevent the mice from eating the eyes. After 

 ! covering them form a box around them, building 

 I in front as high as is needed to cover the stem of 

 the vines, and about twelve inches wide. Then 

 I board over the top so that they are entirely closed 

 in. If your house has a glass front then loosen a 

 few panes of glass so that they may be easily 

 removed on a warm day to let in ventilation. If 

 made of boards, make sliding ventilators; if 

 walls, then put in round tin ones, with a cap to 

 let in or out. This done, you can turn on your 

 heat and run the houses to any temperature you 



