2l8 



GARDENING. 



April /, 



HYBRID TEA ROSE, "BRRDOU JOB." 



This rose, sent out in 18S7, is one of 

 the modern class of garden roses, destined 

 to become popular bv its many attractive 

 features. While it has a climbing ten- 

 dency, it can readily be kejit m garden 

 form". The plant makes a strong spread- 

 ing growth and the leaves are large, of a 

 metallic tinge, particularly in the younger 

 growth. The flower is semi-double, with 

 two rows of petals, of bright glowing 

 crimson color and velvety sheen, quite 

 large in size and blotched with a dark 

 rich shade, though almost white at the 

 base; stamens bright yellow. Itisveo' 

 fragrant and free blooming and vtfill be 

 observed to possess four requisites of a 

 good garden rose, viz: strong growth, 

 freedom of bloom, striking color and fra- 

 grance, and is lacking only in a degree of 

 hardiness for a northern climate. Its 

 name is not especially attractive, but 

 "what's in a name?" Wm. H. Si'OONER. 



Jamaica Plain, Mass. 



Marechal Niel Rose failing.— In an- 

 swer to Homer, N. Y., would sav: 

 The old rose bush, no matter how far it 

 spreads and much space it covers, should 

 be so exposed to light that not a cane or 

 shoot should be choked or in dark shade. 

 Evidently you have too much old wood 

 in the bush, and that on the under or 

 shaded side is dying. The living bearing 

 wood should be all the way from the bot- 

 tom to the tip; there should be no blind 

 old vines. How to obtain this— keep the 

 bush thin and cut out the dying blind 

 old canes; should this cause a too severe 

 pruning just now on account of the many 

 young shoots near the ends, cut out the 

 worst of them, enough to let the light in 

 to the balance. Do the heavy cutting 

 back or out of old steins next October or 

 November, and then keep the plant dorm- 

 ant if you can for a month or more. 

 Marechal Niel on its own roots is short 

 lived, but budded on to other vigorous 

 rooting roses it grows well; after a few 

 years though it is apt to canker at the 

 union; this is constitutional. Extra sus- 

 ceptibility to mildew is a sign of enerva- 

 tion or ill health. Be very careful about 

 ventilating and watering; don't give 

 front ventilation or keen the doors open, 

 and don't syringe late in the afternoon. 

 Old planted out rose bushes, as we usu- 

 ally grow Gloire de Dijon, M. Niel, 

 Lamarque, etc., like a good rest in late 

 fall, and the better and longer therestthe 

 belter they will start into growth in win- 

 ter and bloom; insufficient rest is one of 

 the greatest causes of blindness in old 

 roses. 



•The Fruit Garden. 



ORBENflOUSE GRAPES. 



In January we thoroughly cleaned the 

 graperies, that is the vines, the wood- 

 work and everything else was washed 

 clean; the loose soil on the inside borders 

 was removed and the surface loosened 

 with a fork but not dug or turned over, 

 as this would break the roots which are 

 abundant at the top. The borders were 

 then thoroughly watered, and a coating 

 two inches deep of fresh turfy loam with 

 a mixture of ground bone was applied as 

 a top-dressing; this soil was dry so frost 

 did not penetrate into the border. On 

 cold nights we turned a little heat on to 

 keep the water in the pipes from freezing, 

 that was all, and not to keep the frost 

 out of the house. After February 23 the 



frost was kept out oftlic house altogether; 

 by March 1 1 increased the temperature to 

 40° and then to 45° at night. On March 

 6 we gave the borders a good soaking of 

 water heated to 85°. The temperature 

 now runs from 45° to 50° at night, 

 allowing it to rise 10° more by day or 

 20° with sun heat, always shutting up 

 early to hold the sunheat and syringing 

 twice daily. March 16 the wood buds 

 are swelling nicely and the most forward 

 are bursting into growth. I am letting 

 the early and late houses start together; 

 in the former we expect to get ripe grapes 

 from the 20th to the 26th of July; in the 

 late house Muscats ripen about a month 

 later. Alicante, Lady Downes, and Mrs. 

 Pearson I like to have ripe by the end of 

 September, as they seem to keep better 

 than if ripened later. 



There should be some means of heating 

 the water used in every grapery. The 

 water as it comes through the hose about 

 this time ofyearisat a temperature of 

 about 40°, "which is much too cold 

 to apply to the borders or syringe 

 with; if"you wish to encourge growth 

 and preserve the fulness and usefulness of 

 the young roots use water heated to 60° 

 or a' little over. George McWilliam. 



Whitinsville, Mass., March 17, '96. 



THE flPFLE MflOOOT. 



i^Trypeta pomonella). 



In my apple orchard the Tri'peta pomo- 

 iiella ruins every year the fruits of the fol- 

 lowing varieties: Benoni. Golden Sweet, 

 Porter, Fameuse, Hubbardston Nonesuch, 

 and Northern Spy. What is the life 

 history of the insect? In particular I 

 would like to learn when its egg-laying 

 season begins and ends, whether a smudge 

 in the daytime or a strong spraying two 

 or three times daily continued through 

 this season would be likely to cause it to 

 abandon the trees so treated; whether the 

 meshes of mosquito netting are fine 

 enough to exclude the insect; and lastly, 

 what in general are the best method of 

 combating this worst of all the enemies 

 of the apple. A.D.Morse. 



Western Massachusetts. 



In controlling the apple maggot, Try- 

 pcta pomonella, the principal dependence 

 must be placed upon preventive measures 

 as the insect is not easily destroj'cd be- 

 fore the fruit is injured. The parent 

 insects fly from early July till they are 

 killed by frosts in the'fall, and during this 

 entire time eggs are laid. Individuals 

 have been known to live three weeks or 

 more. Each female is capable of deposit- 

 ing between three and four hundred eggs. 

 The eggs are developed one at a time and 

 are inserted singly in a vertical position 

 beneath the skin of the apple by means of 

 the sharp ovipositor, which makes a 

 characteristic puncture resembling the 

 brownish rusty spots common upon 

 apples. The eggs are deposited upon all 

 parts of the apple, but most abundantly 

 upon the pale shaded portions where the 

 skin is thinner. They hatch in four or five 

 days and the voung maggots begin to 

 feed upon the pulp. The earlier chatinels 

 are small and are largely healed by the 

 rapid growth of the fruit. Later, larger 

 channels are made which do not heal and 

 soon become centers of decay. As the 

 maggots increase in size, they work 

 deeper into the apple, and hence it fre- 

 quently happens that a fair exterior 

 covers a massof corruption. Under favor- 

 able circumstances the maggots attain 

 their growth in fouror five weeks, though 

 cases are known where cold has retarded 

 their development for months. When full 



grown they usually escape from the apple 

 through characteristic holes and enter the 

 ground to the depth of about an inch and 

 there undergo their transformations. If 

 they do not have a proper place to bury, 

 there is little chance of the round of life 

 being completed. It is said the flies will 

 not emerge if forced to pupate in boxes 

 etc., above ground, but this may not be 

 true of cellars and store houses where 

 apples are ordinarily kept. 



Remedies and preventives: No practi- 

 cal method of destroying the flies before 

 they deposit their eggs is known, and the 

 egg and larval stages are so protected by 

 the enveloping fruit that the insect can- 

 not be r'estroyed independent of it. As 

 the larva; remain in the fruit till after it 

 falls, much may be done to keep the 

 insect in check by destroying the fallen 

 fruit before they escape. This may be 

 dore either by gathering the apples as 

 they fall and feeding them to stock, or by 

 pasturing the orchard with animals that 

 would not injure the trees, as sheep. 



The insect sliows marked preferences 

 for certain varieties, as the Garden Royal 

 and others. One or two trees of such a 

 variety might be used as a decoy, and if 

 the infested fruit was promptly destroyed, 

 no evil results could follow. 



If t'.ie soil under the trees was kept in 

 grass or kept compacted so as to offer un- 

 favorable conditions for pupation, or if 

 the soil was stirred to a slight depth in 

 the fall, it is likely that many of the pup;e 

 would perish, and the insects might thus 

 be kept in check. Spraying would not be 

 of any avail in protection from thisinsect. 



J. A. LiNTNER. 



N. Y. State Entomologist. 



BUDDING CflERRY TREES. 



Last season I had almost an entire 

 failure in my attempt to bud Early Rich- 

 mond on Mahaleb stocks. Can you give 

 suggestions which may prevent future 

 failure? The buds used were somewhat 

 mildewed. What is the proper treatment 

 of the same, stocks 2V2 to 3 feet high? 

 Would you graft them, or leave them 

 standing and try budding again? 



Missouri. E. J. Walker. 



Don't keep over the old stocks of the 

 Mahaleb cherry after having missed them 

 last J ear, simply cut them down, and 

 next season select one shoot from among 

 the several sprouts that are sure to come 

 up from the root, and at budding time 

 simply bud again, using fresh, sound 

 buds. You cannot expect success unless 

 vour buds are good. J. R. Trumpv. 



MILDEW IN fl GRflPERy. 



A reader writes: "I have a grapery, but 

 for the last three years the vines have 

 mildewed and the grapes rotted badly. I 

 took the vines down last fall and white- 

 washed all the woodwork in the house, 

 and after scraping the vines washed them 

 with Bordeaux mixture. The heat has 

 been on the house now since January, and 

 the vines are growing nicely and shovying 

 buds, and so far no mildew is visible. 

 Shall I shade the vines? What else can I 

 do as a preventive against mildew?" 



.4ns. To prevent mildew is to stop 

 what causes it, and, in your case we can- 

 not tell what that is. Attend most care- 

 fullv to vour ventilating, don't ventilate 

 from the front, maintain a regular and 

 not over-high temperature. No; don't 

 shade the glass at this time of year. As 

 you are a new subscriber it will be to 

 your interest to send to the publisher of 

 "Gardening at the Chicago office for Nos. 

 22 24, 27 and 63 of Gardening, they will 



