262 



• • • GARDENING. 



May /5, 



now issuing from the neck of every old 

 plant. 



17. Will 12, 13, 1-i, 15 and 16 stand a 

 climate of 20° below zero without a thick 

 covering of leaves? 



.4ns. Probably not with you. and even 

 under such a mulching we question if 12 

 and 13 will prove hardy enough. 



SUMMER TREATMENT OF WINTER f LOWERING 

 GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



.Vs soon as the weather has bec(jme set- 

 tled and warm we empty our greenhouses 

 of winter flowering plants and shrubs 

 and plant out the majority of them in the 

 "stock ground," that is,' a piece of well 

 enriched ground set apart for cultural 

 l)urposes. The reasons for so doing are 

 that it saves time and labor in watering, 

 and the plants seem to enjoy it and give 

 better results. As an illustration: Some 

 years ago we could not get very satisfac- 

 tory results from/asm/uum grandiHorum 

 by our treatment of it in keeping it in 

 pots. We tried planting it out in the 

 summer and lifting and potting it in the 

 fall and were rewarded by a plentiful 

 crop of its beautiful white, fragrant blos- 

 soms. Before planting it out we pnme it 

 back to within an inch of the young wood 

 and reduce the "ball;" pinch it back occa- 

 sionally, so as not to let it bloom till the 

 first of August, not later, and lift and pot 

 it the last of September, and keep it in a 

 cool place till chrysanthemum time is 

 over, when it will be more acceptable. 

 This is a type of our mode of culture with 

 many greenhouse plants, varied accord- 

 ing to circumstances. The greater part 

 of our cool greenhouses is occupied by 

 chrj'santhemums, and when they are done 

 blooming and thrown out we must have 

 something to take their place. 



Orange trees — except such as the Ota- 

 heite — we grow for their blossoms; so 

 when we are planting them out in the 

 ground we have no hesitation about cut- 

 ting away their fruit, to prune them into 

 shape, but do not cut severely. They 

 need a rich soil and plenty of water dur- 

 ing summer. When we lift them in the 

 fall we put them into a reserve green- 

 house till our show houses are empty. 



We treat genistas, mahemias and abu- 

 tilons in the same manner, except one 

 year old plants, which do not lilt well, 

 these we keep in pots. We apply the same 

 treatment to laurestinus, Heterocentron 

 roseuin, Hahrothamaus elegans, Ces- 

 truw Parquii, C. laurifolium and C. noc- 

 turnuni, Sparmannia Africana and Statice 

 arborescens. One word about this latter 

 plant: I lifted some plants of it last Sep- 

 tember and they were then in bloom; they 

 continued blooming all the winter, and 

 they are covered with their blue flowers 

 of tissue paper-like texture at this date 

 (May D). This plant and abutilon 

 ■ Golden Fleece" were in bloom the whole 

 winter. 



BouGAiNviLLEA GLABRA we prune quite 

 severely when done blooming — sometimes 

 we don't wait till it is done blooming, it 

 lasts so long— plant it out and induce a 

 vigorous growth; lift and pot it in the 

 fall; stow it away in a cool house and 

 keep it as drj- as possible without actual 

 shriveling. About ten weeks before you 

 want it to bloom bring it into a warm 

 house and water it liberal!}', giving it 

 liquid manuretwice a week. From plants 

 treated this way you can cut growths 

 three feet long, covered over with showy 

 rose-crimson flower bracts by Easter. 



Berried solanums sown January 1 wc 

 plant out in May— the dwarf varieties 

 one foot apart, the large growingones 18 

 inches each wa}-. The varieties we grow 

 are lV, cnpsicastnim and .S'. capskastrum 



Hendersoni, a dwarf, pointed, oval- 

 shaped variety. Also Solanum ciliatum, 

 a vigorous sort with scarlet fruit nearly 

 as big as a medium sized tomato. It 

 should be sown in March and must be 

 grown in a pot to check its vigor. Stevia 

 serrata and the white eupatorium we 

 grow in pots from cuttings put in the 

 bench .\pril 1. Mr. John Farrell has 

 grown stevia these last 30 years, and his 

 method is as follows: Cuttings rooted in 

 .\pril and potted as required till put into 

 their blooming pots, 8-inch size. They 

 are placed on the garden walk, and not 

 over watered, indeed he does not mind if 

 the V wilt sometimes, and they are pinched 

 back till about the 10th of July, but not 

 later, which point he thinks very impor- 

 tant. 



BouvAKDiAS from root cuttings put in 

 the bench Januarj- are planted out in 

 rows 18 inches apart and 12 inches in the 

 row, and lifted and planted in the bench 

 in the fall. 



Our carnations are rooted from cut- 

 tings taken from plants before they were 

 forced, and they are planted out May 1 in 

 ground that receives a liberal allowance 

 of unleached wood ashes. We are verj' 

 little troubled with rust, but copperdinc 

 is the remedy. For the "twitter" or 

 thrips Mr. Farrell uses a tablespoonful of 

 common salt in two gallons of water, 

 and sprinkles it over the plants a few 

 times, first cutting the infected tops ofl', 

 and he also syringes them with tobacco 

 water. He does not pinch the plants 

 after August 1. 



Flowering begonias are rooted in 

 March and potted, then planted out the 

 latter part of May in a partly shaded sit- 

 uation and pieces of apple twigs placed 

 between them till August, when the sun 

 is beginning to get weak, then the twigs 

 are pulled up, and the plants are lifted 

 and potted early in September. The va- 

 rieties we grow areNitida alba. Dr. Nach- 

 tigal, Rubra, Semperflorens rosea, Paul 

 Bruant, Jessica or Robusta, Presidi nt 

 Camot, Manicata aurea variegata (a 

 superb variety), Argj'rostigma, Argentea 

 guttata and Olbia and Metallica, which 

 require more shade. The Rex section of 

 begonias we grow in a shady house all 

 summer. Begonia glaucophylla scandens 

 we grow indoors from cuttings rooted in 

 Mav. We pot three in a 6-inch pot and 

 suspend it from the rafters in winter. 

 They have been admired by hundreds of 

 visitors to Mr. Barr's place last spring. 

 I wonder they are not more generally 

 grown. 



Paris daisies, geraniums, etc. for win- 

 ter flowering we root about themiddle of 

 July and grow on. Rbyncospermum jas- 

 minoides we kee]) in a pot in a partly 

 shady place. Azaleas, camellias and 

 heaths are potted about the first week in 

 May, and any that do not need it get 

 clean drainage and a layer of sphagnum 

 moss over it, and all are placed on a bed 

 of coal ashes, with salt hay placed be- 

 tween the pots. A latticework is made of 

 plasterer's laths nailed to a light frame- 

 work 11/2 inches, or about the width of a 

 lath, apart. This admits sufficient light, 

 but breaks the intensity of the sun's rays 

 during the hot summer months. They 

 are syringed every evening. We bring 

 them into a cool greenhouse in the fall, 

 and then into warmer ones as we require 

 them for blooming. 



Wm. Fitzwilliam. 

 Baronald, Orange, N. J., May 9, '95. 



Orchids. 



N Gardening I find endless practical 

 ,ts. 0. F. B. 



)arien. Conn. 



If not already done no time should be 

 lost in doing repairs to your orchid stock 

 by cutting away any decayed bulbs and 

 leaves. Shouldany of the leading growths 

 overhang the sides of the pot or have 

 grown so high up that the young roots 

 are exposed it will be a good plan if the 

 plant can be lifted out of the pot without 

 material damage to its roots, to give it a 

 size larger pot. Cut away the old and 

 useless part of the plant and repot, keep- 

 ing in view the preseri-ation of the healthy 

 roots. Be sure to supply ample and clean 

 drainage and place a strong stake well 

 down to the bottom of the pot, trhen tie the 

 plants so that the new growths will have 

 space within the rim of pots, and fill in 

 with clean fern root as tightly as possi- 

 ble, so that the whole will be so firm that 

 it cannot be disturbed by watering with 

 the hand syringe or hose. 



Cypripediums I find do best in clean 

 sphagnum with plenty of clean drainage, 

 and not over-potted. Keep the moss 

 growing, water freely, shade moderately 

 and give plenty of fresh air, but not a 

 draught, and it is surprising how soon 

 you have fine plants of this interesting 

 gentis. 



In every collection there should be some 

 of such fascinating orchids as ionopsis, 

 burlingtonia, hrouglitonia; angriecum, 

 sopbronites, dendrochilum, etc., not so 

 much for their delicate beauty as for 

 comparison with some of the grander 

 types, such as Lxlia piirpurata, Cym- 

 hidium Lowianum and cattleyas. There 

 is also Odontoglossum Rossi, Oncidium 

 Jonesianvm, O. varicosum and such like 

 plants that are really a necessity to a 

 lover of this family. With a fair amount 

 of care and skillful handling they cannot 

 fail to please the owner. Many of the 

 Indian dendrobiums will now be pushing 

 new growth, and should be encouraged 

 by stronger heat and more moisture, as 

 their growth proceeds, and once a week 

 give them a dip or syringe of weak liquid 

 manure water, it will induce a stronger 

 growth and finer flowers. I find this 

 treatment very good, especially for D. 

 formosuin, D. crysatoxuni and such like 

 strong growers. I intend giving the 

 same treatment to some of the weaker 

 kinds, and anticipate good results. But 

 I would not advise using the liquid very 

 strong, and would not use it until the 

 roots are well advanced, say 2 or 3 inches 

 long. In your warm orchid houses use 

 plenty of tobacco stems on the pipes until 

 you cease firing, then fumigate once a 

 week to keep down thrips and aphides. 

 Wm. Mathews. 



The Fruit Garden. 



TflE JfliPflNESE WINEBERRY. 



The accompanying illustration is en- 

 graved from a photograph taken by my 

 son of a spray of the wineberry as grown 

 here this year. And it is a fair sample of 

 the fruit as grown on several acres at 

 F'loral Park beside me, where notwith- 

 standing the severe dry weather during 

 fruiting and picking time last summer the 

 plants gave a very good yield of berries. 

 For the first time these berries were 

 shipped to the New York market, where 

 they were well received and sold at from 

 8 to 10 cents per (|uart wholesale. As 



