266 



GARDENING. 



May IS, 



few cloves of it are asked for for flavoring 

 certain dishes. We plant a row a yard or 

 two long of it early in April, dividing the 

 bulbs into as many cloves or sets as thej' 

 will make, and planting them in the row 

 two to three inches deep and two to three 

 inches apart, in light soil. They are ripe 

 for gathering and storing about the same 

 tiriie as sets onions are ripe. 



Horse r.\dish.— That which was left 

 luidug from last year will be running to 

 flower; cut off these stalks. Use this old 

 radish first. This year's setting is coming 

 up nicely. Keep it clean. Had we wanted 

 to we could have had lettuces, radish, 

 spinach, or cabbage plants from seed from 

 between the intervening rows before the 

 horse radish plants would be up enough 

 to choke them It you have any dug up 

 roois left over from winter, keep them 

 cool, and covered with moist earth, and 

 rub off any sprouts that may grow on 

 them, as they lessen the pungency of the 

 radish. 



K.vLE needn't be touched before next 

 month. 



KonL Rabi.— In sowing and planting 

 treat as you would summer cabbage, 

 only plant closer, say IS inches by 2 feet 

 and use it as soon as the "bulbs" areas 

 big as a goose egg. 



Leeks. — Sow a row a yard or two 

 long as soon as possible, and when the 

 plants are large enough for it, transplant 

 them singly into rows as one would 

 onions, only the rows should be in deep 

 furrows as if drawn for peas or beans, 

 and 18 inches apart. 



Lettuces. — Scatter a few seeds in any 

 empty bit of ground you may have. As 

 soon as Ihe seedlings are big enough you 

 may lift and transplant them elsewhere 

 12 to 15 inches apart; or thin them out 

 enough where they were sown to let 

 them remain there for hearting. Indeed 

 it is a good plan in summer, instead of 

 sowing in one place and transplanting to 

 another, to sow thin and then thin out 

 the j)lants to a foot apart, lettmg them 

 stay there to mature. Lettuces like 

 heavy, moist, rich ground in summer; in 

 light soils they "bolt" very quick. If you 

 grow Cos lettuce, when it is three- 

 quarter grown tie a string loosely around 

 its middle to hold the leaves togetherand 

 bleach the heart, a light rubber band is 

 excellent for this purpose. 



Marjorum.— We sow a row— as far as 

 a common seed packet goes — of both the 

 annual and pot marjorum each year for 

 "herbs," but it is with marjorum as it 

 is with dandelions, we must sow early, 

 for it doesn't start kindly in hot summer 

 weather. 



Martvnia or Unicom plant is grown 

 for its young seed pods, which are made 

 into pickles It is a big, coarse broad 

 spreading plant, and three or four of 

 them are ample for an ordinary demand. 

 It is easily raised from seed and easily 

 grown. But it is a vegetable so little 

 called for that seeds are not always as 

 fresh as they ought to be. 



Melons.— Musk melons like good soil 

 and with us so do water melons, but the 

 latter will thrive in light soils too. They 

 may now be sown in hills, the musk in 

 rows 6 feet apart, and rows 4 to 5 feet 

 asunder in the rows; water melons one- 

 third further apart. .\s regards the cut 

 worms take the same precautions as 

 mentioned for cucumbers. 



Mi.\T spreads so that we have to cut it 

 close into line every spring. If it shows 

 any lack of vigor plant a new row in 

 ground other than that occupied by mint 

 before. 



Mushrooms.— The cultivation of the 

 new mushroom in frames, buildings or 



out of doors is now in order. But remem- 

 ber it will take maggots just the same as 

 the old mushroom, only as it grows so 

 quick the mushrooms are gathered before 

 the maggots get big enough to be seen. 

 As regards common mushrooms clean out 

 all old beds, their bearing season is prac- 

 ticalh' over foi a time. Now is the time 

 to plant spawn in the fields or lawn if 

 you wish to try to cultivate open air 

 mushrooms. 



Mustard is appreciated in winter and 

 early spring; but as we have so many 

 other things we don't care so much for it 

 now. At the same time it is an excellent 

 relish at any time of the year, and very 

 easily grown from seed. 



Nasturtiums.— If you want these for 

 pickles, grow them for their showy flow- 

 ers; they will yield both blossoms and 

 pickles. 



Okra. — Sow it now, either thin in a 

 row or in 2 feet apart hills, and two or 

 three plants in a hill. But don't sow it 

 all at once, make three sowings of it dur- 

 ing summer, if you want to have an un- 

 broken supply of young pods. 



Onions. — As soon as the seedlings are 

 up run the hoe between the rows no mat- 

 ter if there are no weeds there; you want 

 to break the surface of the groimd and 

 mellow it. Rush the onions all you can 

 so as to get some size on them before the 

 summer drouth sets in and they become 

 infested with jellow thrips. 



Orach is something like spinach and 

 grown much in the same way, but it isn't 

 as good. 



Parsukv. — The spring sowing should 

 be up now. Hoe the ground on either 

 side of the row to encourage growth. As 

 the old parsley wdl soon run up to 

 flower try to get this year's sowings into 

 good leaf as soon as possible. Then root 

 out and throw away the old. 



Peas.— Sow nothing but marrow peas 

 now. In the field we sow them in single 

 rows 21/2 to 3 feet apart, and don't brush 

 or otherwise support them, in the garden 

 we sow them in double rows with 3 to .'> 

 feet wide intervening spaces between 

 them, and we brush or net these peas. In 

 the middle of the space between the rows 

 we sow spinach or radish or plant let- 

 tuces. Don't sow late varieties for latest 

 peas. What is meant by late peas is the 

 ones that take a longer time than others 

 before bearing pods fit for use. Interme- 

 diate varieties of medium growth are 

 good enough for all purposes. 



Parsnips, Salsify, Scorzonkra. — If 

 you haven't sown these, sow at once. ( )r 

 if you haven't enough of them put in, you 

 are in time yet to add to your stock. 



Peppers, like egg plants, gain nothing 

 by early planting. Harden them off well 

 and plant about the end of the month. 



Potatoes maj' yet be planted, but it is 

 getting late for them. We have harrowed 



down the rows of ours, and now the 

 sprouts are beginning to peep above 

 ground. If you have onl3' a small patch 

 a common wooden hay rake drawn 

 over the rows unfastens the surface soil 

 and pulls all clods of earth off them, 

 allowing the young shoots easy egress. 



Radishes take from 20 to 25 days be- 

 tween sowing and using, and they don't 

 last many days in usable condition, hence 

 we shouldn't use a good open space for 

 them if we can get an opening between 

 other crops, and we shouldn't sow much 

 at a time. Better sprinkle a few seeds on 

 the ground and rake and tamp them in 

 once a week, or sow a short row. 



Rhubarb is now at its best, and run- 

 ning to flower. Root out all the poor, 

 green slender stalked crowns, and keep 

 onl}' the big thick, red stemmed ones. 

 And break off all the flower stems as soon 

 as you can get a good hold of them. It 

 you sowed some seed this spring thin out 

 the seedlings to six inches or more apart 

 to get good crowns for transplanting 

 later on. 



Sage.— Old plants lived over winter 

 very well. We cut them down a good 

 deal in spring so as to get fresh green 

 growth for summer. It is also easily 

 raised from seid. 



Sea kale, so popular in Europe and 

 one of the leading market garden winter 

 crops there, is seldom used here. Sow 

 some seed now, and early next spring 



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