294 



GARDENING. 



June /5, 



the top. Now take it out into the gar- 

 den and with one hand hold it inider the 

 infested flowers and with the other shake 

 the bugs into it. The kerosene kills 

 them. When the pail is getting full 

 throw out the bugs, add more kerosene 

 and go picking again. There is very 

 little trouble attached to this way of 

 catching and destroying tl e pests, and it 

 is sure death to the bugs. Give the small 

 boys the job. One c<n hold the pail while 

 the other shakes the bugs into it, then 

 Ijay them 10 cents a pint for all they 

 catch. The Fourth of July is near at 

 hand and the boys want firecrackers and 

 fun and will now work with a will for a 

 little money to help them celebrate. 



The best pill.\r rose, without any 

 exception, is Rosa U'/c/jura/ana, the Jap- 

 anese trailing rose. It covers the pillar 

 with a heavy overlap|.ing spray of glossy 

 green leaved branches from close on the 

 ground up, and produces panicles of small 

 single white flowers after most other 

 roses are out of bloom, and these are suc- 

 ceeded by crimson heps that hang on the 

 plants ail winter. The plant is not sub- 

 ject to mildew nor insect pests, so far .-is 

 we have seen, at the same time we do not 

 claim for it immunity from these evils. 

 It throws out young shoots from the 

 root that grow twenty to thirty feet in 

 a year, but they never will climb of their 

 own accord, they have got to be tied up, 

 for their nature is to spread out flat on 

 the ground. The plant is hardy, not 

 even a tip was injured at Dosoris last 

 winter, although it was not protected in 

 any way. A year ago we planted one of 

 these roses against a pillar; before the 

 summer was over it threw up several 

 strong shoots; we tied these up to the 

 post and arched them over to another 

 post, letting them droop down the same, 

 which they did to the ground, the tips 

 taking root there like a black cap rasp- 

 berry, so now we have in one year 

 a very handsome arch of roses from 

 one plant. Mr. Wilmer Atkinson (editor 

 of the Farm Journal) when here the 

 other day said "that rose growing in 

 that way is, alone, worth coming from 

 Philadelphia to see." 



Rose Suckers— Cut them out.— Roses 

 are propagated in two ways ordinarily, 

 namely, from cuttings, when they are 

 called own-root plants, and never sucker, 

 and secondly, budded on some other kind 

 of rose as on a wild briar or Manetti. 

 livery sprout that comes up from an 

 own-root plant is precisely the same as 

 the mother plant and should be retained 

 and encouraged in growth. Budded 

 plants, however, are apt to bear spurious 

 suckers, that is sprouts from the root 

 part under the point of union with the 

 cion. If these are left to grow they will 

 soon outgrow the tame rose and absorb 

 the sustenance that should go to its sup- 

 port, after a while killing it. How are 

 we to know whether our rose bushes are 

 own-root or budded plants? Unless they 

 have been apprised of the fact, inexperi- 

 enced people cannot tell. So keep a sharp 

 eye on yourbeds and look out for suckers. 

 These suckers always spring from the 

 ground and have a thrifty wild rose look 

 about them, with sharp spines and a red- 

 dish tinge to them, and usually seven or 

 more leaflets to the leaf, and they are 

 quite distinct in general appearance from 

 the tame rose growing from the same 

 root. If you see these suckers cut them 

 out close to the old root. Uon't cut them 

 off above ground, f>r they would imme- 

 diately spring up again, and don't pull 

 them out lest in doing so you may injure 

 the root from which the sucker has started 



and which sustains the rose bush you 

 wish to preserve. Cut out these suckers 

 and spare them not. 



Salt water is had for roses.— We 

 have large beds of roses— hybrid remont- 

 ants, rugosa, multiflora, sweet briar, 

 and other hardy sorts— near the edge of 

 the sea wall, and protected from the glare 

 of the saltwater by a hedge of matrimony 

 vine, celastrus, andperiploca. Unusually 

 high tides may flood part of these beds; 

 such tides may occur once ortwice a year 

 or may be not more than once in two 

 years. Should such a tide occur in fall, 

 say November or December the damage 

 done to the roses is only slight, but should 

 it happen in spring, say between March 

 and May, the bushes will be severely 

 injured, in fact most of them will be 

 killed. On the other hand our common 

 wild rose [Rosa Caroliniana) doesn't 

 seem to mind a salt water bath, in fact 

 it is naturalized alongtheseabanks where 

 several tides a year reach it. 



Soil for Roses. — Any good, ordinary 

 soil will grow ros;s; one that will grow 

 good strawberries, pears, sweet corn or 

 potatoes will also grow good roses. But 

 perhaps we mayget the best flowers from 

 a deep, rich, friable loam, a little inclined 

 to stiffness. If you haven't got such a 

 soil don't worry in the least, make the 

 best of what you have and success will 

 attend you. Position has much to do 

 with successful rose growing. For best 

 results the rose bed should be out in the 

 full sunshine, but sheltered by neighbor- 

 ing buildings, fences, rolling land, etc., 

 from sweeping winds. If the ground is 

 inclined to be wet it should be drained, 

 and roses should never be planted where 

 a pool of water is apt to lie in winter, or 

 after a thunder shower in summer. 



In cutting roses don't spare them, 

 especially H. Ps., for if the stems are 

 pretty well cut back strong laterals are 

 apt to be produced during summer that 

 will give us a good scattering of flowers 

 towards fall. Bourbons, as Mrs. Degraw, 

 Hermosa and Appoline, may also be cut 

 freely with good results. But in the case 

 of moss roses, Persian yellow, Madame 

 Plantier and prairie roses, that nothing 

 would induce to bear a second crop of 

 flowers, nothing is gained by severe cut- 

 ting, unless it be symmetry of the plants. 



Agnes Emily Carman Rose.— We have 

 two nice bushes of it in full bloom, and 

 they are distinct and pretty. It is a 

 rugosa hybrid, with strongrugosa marks 

 as regards foliage and earliness, the blos- 

 soms are semi-double. Jacqueminot crim- 

 son and pretty in the bud, but not so at- 

 tractive when open. It must be a very 

 hardy rose, lor it survived last winter 

 entirely unprotected and without the 

 least injury so far as we can see. 



Rosa rugosa and its hybrid Madame 

 Georges Bruant have been winter-killed 

 to the ground in some places in my 

 grounds, in other partsof my garden they 

 are all right. Rosa rubrifolia came 

 through splendidly as did also Harrison's 

 Yellow. The Seven Sisters in a sheltered 

 position with only a vine of thunbergia 

 thiown over it is alive and well. 



Chicago. W. C. Egan. 



The Greenhouse. 



TAB GRBBNflOUSE IN SUMMER. 



The greenhouse in summer can be made 

 a place of beauty and interest. Some of 

 the reasons why it is not more generally 



so are perhaps owing to the counter 

 attractions of beautiful, well kept 

 grounds, hardy shrubs, and flower beds; 

 the annual summer exodus of the proprie- 

 tors to Europe, and consequently the con- 

 centration of the garden, r's efforts 

 towards the production of fall and win- 

 ter blooming, and decorative plants. 



Many of our greenhouse plants which 

 are interesting just now are brought into 

 the shaded stove houses, which are gener- 

 ally cooler in summer than the bright un- 

 shaded greenhouses. This gives us work- 

 ing room in what might be called the 

 cultural houses, that is to say houses in 

 which plants are not arranged for effect, 

 but for the production of cut blooms and 

 flowering plants for winter. In these 

 latter houses benches must be repaired 

 and refilled with soil, roses must be 

 planted therein before the 4th of July; 

 dwarf chrysanthemums will occupy a 

 good deal of the benches, and in general 

 such plants as will stand direct sunlight 

 in the greenhouse. 



In June we take our large palms, etc., 

 out of our winter garden greenhouse, and 

 place them in a partially shaded situation 

 around the dwelling house. This gives us 

 room to display the remaining plants to 

 advantage. Our principal ornamental 

 plants in summer are tuberous begonias. 

 Rex begonias, gloxinias, fancy leaved 

 caladiums, Allamanda Schottii, and A. 

 neriifoUa; such ferns as Adiantum 

 Farleyense, A. macrophyllum, A. cune- 

 atuni, and the beautiful lace-like fern 

 Gymnogramme schizophylla, dwarf 

 palms such as Geonoma gracilis, 

 Acanthophoenix crinita and Cocos Wed- 

 deliana, ornamental foliage plants such 

 as bertolonias, and the beautiful, easily 

 grown Campylobotrys Ghiesbregbtii 

 variegata, known also as Hoffmannia 

 and Higginsia, Maranta Mackoyana and 

 Massangeana, Alocasia Lowi and A. 

 niacrorhiza variegata, Anthurium Andre- 

 anum (which is nearly alw-ays in flower), 

 and A. Scberzerianum, etc., the odd and 

 interesting Monstera deliciosa, the varie- 

 gated pineapple (Ananassa sativa 

 variegata), and Aiscbynanthus Lobbia- 

 niis, a beautiful pendulous basket plant 

 with rich scarlet flowers, and in general, 

 those plants whose foliage is of such deli- 

 cate texture that it will not w thstand 

 the fvdl blaze of sunlight or searching 

 winds. 



Tuberous begonias wegrow from small 

 bulbs purchased from some reliable 

 grower who advertises in the horticult- 

 ural press. If grown from seed sow it 

 early in December. We pot the bulbs in 

 March in 3-inch pots, and shift hem as 

 required till we finally pot them into 

 7inch and 8-inch pots. They are of very 

 easy culture.the principal points are: don't 

 procure large, hollow-crowned bulbs, as 

 soon as the roots touch the sides of 

 the pots, repot them, draining the pots 

 well; give them an occasional fumigating 

 to keep down thrips, give them plenty of 

 water, never let them get dry, and let the 

 compost consist of good turfy loam, leaf 

 mold or well rotted mantire, with a good 

 admixture of sharp sand. They require 

 partial shade after May 1. 



We have over twenty varieties of Rex 

 begonias. We root them from sections of 

 the leaves put in the cutting bench in 

 January. The chief requirements of this 

 class are heat, shade and moisture. 

 Gloxinias we root from leaves put in 

 flats of sand about the 15th of July. 

 When they are in flower we select leaves 

 from the "most desirable sorts and put 

 them in the sand in an upright position. 

 They soon root and form a bulb in the 

 sand, and when the leaf dies gradually 



