360 



• • GARDENING. 



Ang 15, 



protection as near perfect as can be for 

 our climate. My display of roses this 

 season has been beyond my highest expec- 

 tation, and no catalogue display that I 

 have so far seen has exceeded it. In con- 

 clusion let uie mention that if every one 

 " ho wishes to have equal success will 

 huv two-year-old plants from reputable 

 i^rowers (to mention my favorites would 

 be against the rule) he or t.he will meet 

 with fair success, but they must in ad- 

 dition to this have the love of flowers in 

 their hearts. 



I have so far not been able to get a per- 

 fect moss rose. Wm. Weitzel. 



Nebraska, Julv 2, '95. 



Rose SLUG. 



C. H., Ro.xbury, Mass., asks: "Can you 

 suggest any treatment for rose bushes 

 which will prevent the leaves being skele- 

 tonized like the enclosed sample? Helle- 

 bore for th • leaf-eating insects, and 

 kerosene emulsion for aphides have been 

 used from time to time with fair success 

 against the.«e pests, but they seem to 

 have no effect against the author of this 

 disfigurement." 



This is the work of the rose slug. It is 

 the larv£e of saw fly, about halt an inch 

 long, and infests the under sides of the 

 leaves. Just as soon as the rosebushes 

 burst into leaf prepare for this visitor. If 

 you have hydrant water handy hoseyour 

 rose bushes forciblj' on the underside 

 about twice a week, a Rainmaker nozzle 

 is just the thing for this. After hosing, 

 with a powder bellows blow a little fresh 

 hellebore powder on to the bushes and 

 so that it may strike the underside of the 

 leaves. Absolution of whale oil soap, and 

 even kerosene emulsion well directed 

 against the under side of the leaves, as 

 well as the upper, will also destroy them. 



fl FRflORflNT CLIMBINO ROSE FOR ONTARIO? 



K correspondent asks: "Could you 

 name a fragrant climbing rose that 

 would be hardy on a south wall in Inger- 

 soll, Ontario?" 



I don't know of a fragrant hardy rose 

 for the province of Ontario; rosesthatare 

 hardy here unfortunately are not fragrant. 

 1 would try Crimson Rambler, judging 

 from the hardiness of the poly antha roses 

 and the fragrance of ClothildeSoupert,to 

 which class Crimson Rambler belongs. 

 By covering it carefully in winter I believe 

 it will be hardy, .\llclmbing roses should 

 l)e covered in winter if the best results are 

 to be obtained. A Gilchrist. 



West Toronto Junction, Ont. 



The Greenhouse. 



T«E GREENflOUSE. 



While the greenhouses are compara- 

 tively empty and before the rush of tak- 

 ing in the plants that have been summered 

 out of doors comes on we should have 

 the structures thoroughly examined and 

 all needed repairs attended to. See that 

 every board of every bench and shelf is 

 perfectly sound and that the cross bars 

 are strong and set fair. Both for utility 

 and good appearance a coat of paint is 

 to be desired. Have ihe boilers, pipes 

 and valves tested, the ventilating gear 

 tried and made to work properly and 

 shut tightlv. The glazing will need to be 

 examined. ' Take out every broken anil 

 loose pane of glass, .sc a.])c out the old 

 Ijutty, bed afresh and re-glaze, fixing the 

 glass firmly in place with brads or zinv 



points. Loose panes of glass are sure to 

 be leaky. If a pane slips down out of 

 place don't shove it wp and tack it in 

 place, but take it out, clean out the old 

 putty, use fresh and set in the pane again, 

 tacking it in place. If greenhouse plants 

 are well cleaned from scale, red spider, 

 thrips and mealy bugs now it is a com- 

 paratively easy matter to keep them clean 

 all winter, so spare not the sponge or 

 hose. Out of door plants are very de- 

 ceiving in the matterof mealy bugs; when 

 the plants are set outside these pests 

 usually make for the roots and stay in 

 hiding there till the plants are brought 

 inside in fall, when, on account of more 

 genial quarters, they leave the ground, 

 ascending the tree to its every nook and 

 cranny 



Caladiums, alocasias, raarantas, an- 

 thuriums, dracscnas, crotons and other 

 fine leaved plants are now in perfection, 

 and allamandas, clerodendrons. bougain- 

 villea, etc. according to treatment are in 

 bloom. 



Bulbs. — If you haven't already ordered 

 your bulbs, do so at once. Don't wait 

 "for the new fall catalogues, bulbs are the 

 same year after year, with a few insig- 

 nificant changes for variety's sake Or Jer 

 from the old catalogues. It is time you 

 had the Bermuda Harrisii lilies you want 

 in bloom before Christmas potted; for 

 later they will do anytime before Septem- 

 ber, and for Eastt r any time before the 

 end of October. But there is nothing 

 gained by keeping lily bulbs out of the 

 ground a long time. Roman hyacinths 

 and paper white narcissus for early flow- 

 ers should also be potted at once. Pot 

 or box up some early trumpet narcissi 

 too All bulbs should be started cool and 

 slowly so as to induce them to make good 

 roots before their leaves appear above 

 ground; hurrj'ingthem up isapt tothrow 

 them blind. 



Calceol.\rias. — Prick off seedlings and 

 when they are large enough pot them 

 singly into very small pots; plunge the 

 pots in sand or ashes to keep them from . 

 drying out too quickly. Keep the plants 

 in "a cool but airy and shaded place, as 

 near to the glass in a cold frame. If you 

 need more plants sow some more seeds 

 now. 



CiNER.\RiAS should be treated just like 

 calceolarias except that it is well to start 

 them a little earlier, say in June or July. 



Chinese primroses may also be kept in 

 a similar place as the above, in fact we 

 find they do well in a cold frame set on 

 the north side of a board fence, or under 

 a lath shading. Obconica-primroses we 

 keep in 3 or 4-inch pots in a cold frame 

 in a shady place without any sash over 

 them. 



Pelargoniums. — The show or Lady 

 Washington sorts have been kept out of 

 doors and rather dry and inactive since 

 they finished blooming in June; in a week 

 or two we will cut them pretty well back 

 and keep them as inactive as possible, 

 housing them before frost comes. 



LiBONIAS, SERICOGRAPHIS AND BOIj- 



VARDiAS are still in the fields planted out, 

 but we will Hft them as soon as possible 

 and pot them, so as to get them well 

 rooted before cold weather sets in. 



Begonias love to be outside in summer 

 providing they are shaded from sunshine 

 and are kept moist at theroot and rather 

 dry overhead, and by this time of year 

 they are generally big, fat and flourish- 

 ing. But very soon we are likely to have 

 cool nights and occasional cold wet rains; 

 begonias under such conditions arc apt 

 to lose their working roots by rot, then 

 no matter how good looking llic foliage 

 may be it soon will suffer, and tlic plants 



assume a sorry plight. This teaches us 

 that they should be brought indoors 

 early, say before the middleof September, 

 and before any of these unfavorable con- 

 ditions arrive. Window plants may be 

 kept on the piazza over night and in 

 stormy weather. Begonias that arc 

 planted out should be lifted and potted, 

 krpt sheltered in frames or a house and 

 shaded from sunshine, but not coddled at 

 all. As a rule hereabout tuberous be- 

 gonias have been less satisfactory out of 

 doors than usual, but nothing is brighter 

 as pot plants or planted out in frames 

 and covered with shaded sash tilted up 

 day and night. Save seeds from the best 

 varieties. 



Callas.— We rest our big flowering 

 bulbs all summer, and plant out the little 

 ones if we need the stock. In the first 

 week in August we shake out the old 

 bulbs, clean them from dead roots and 

 dead skin, scrape out any eaten holes in 

 them, and cut out any decaving parts, 

 then wash them, but all this time are 

 careful not to injurewhateverlivingroots 

 may be attached to them. And we repot 

 tbe bulbs at once into clean, well drained 

 pots in rich turfy soil, and set them out 

 close together on a bed of coal ashes on 

 the north side of a board fence, giving 

 them no water after potting time, but 

 not saving them at all from rain. There 

 they stay till the middle of or later in 

 September. They soon start into fresh 

 growth, coming slowly and sturdily, and 

 are generally in bloom before Christmas 

 and last till early summer. 



Our freesias had been kept dust dry 

 in their pots all summer, and on a wet 

 day some weeks ago we had them all 

 turned out and the bulbs picked up into 

 boxes. W e are now potting off a lot of 

 them for early blooming. We will keep 

 over about two-thirds of the biggest bulbs 

 to be potted up later on. The small and 

 medium sized bulbs if required should all 

 be potted or boxed up at once, and al- 

 lowed to start into growth early and 

 have a long season, this is conducive to a 

 considerable increase in their size. The 

 pots now filled are set out on a bed of 

 ashes beside the callas, and we shall let 

 them stay there longer, for a few degrees 

 of frost, if their pots are plunged in ashes, 

 etc., won't hurt the tops. 



Carnations are generally planted out 

 in summer and lifted in August or Sep- 

 tember and planted on benches in the 

 greenhouse or potted; of course while 

 there is no danger to them from frost be- 

 fore October or November the merit of 

 early lifting and potting consists in get- 

 ting the plants well rooted before winter 

 sets in. 



Chrysanthemums.— Most florists have 

 these already planted out on benches irt 

 their greenhouses and well established, 

 tied up to strings or stakes, and the lat- 

 eral shoots are pinched in to throw the 

 full strength into the end bud. In order 

 to get nice pot plants holding their foli- 

 age to the ground we should lilt and pot 

 them as soon and carefully as possible, 

 bring them indoors or m a slightly shaded 

 place outside for a few da3's. and syringe 

 overhead two or three times a day. 

 Flower buds are not visible yet, but lat- 

 eral shoots are, and if you w^ish for big 

 flowers these side branches have got to go. 

 .\CHLMENES— How beautiful these are 

 in summer and easy to grow. Their 

 roots may rest dust dry from October till 

 May, and as they increase very rapidly 

 very few plants are better adapted for 

 amateurs to grow. Shade them from hot 

 sunshine, give them water freely at the 

 root, but sparingly overhead; let them 

 have plenty of room and fresh air and the 



