i8g6. 



' • ' GARDENING. 



167 



ASPARAGUS SPRBNGERI. 



grow about an acre for market and find 

 that Sharpless, Haverland and Chas. 

 Downing are good varieties, althongh 

 the last named is somewhat smaller than 

 an up-to-date strawberry should be. Still 

 the grower is always sure of a moderate 

 crop at least from this variety, which is 

 more than can be said for some other 

 sorts. I have also this year a bed of 

 Greenville and Dayton for trial. 



My method of cultivation is simple 

 enough, and has always given good re- 

 sults when the season was favorable. In 

 the spring, as early as I can, I select the 

 piece of ground for the new bed and 

 broadcast as much good manure on it 

 as can be covered with the plow. Hav- 

 ing turned the manure under I go over 

 the bed once with the harrow. Next 

 apply a good chemical manure broadcast 

 at the rate of 1,200 or 1,500 pounds to 

 the acre, and it should be as rich as pos- 

 s ble in potash. I am of the opinion that 

 potash gives a firmer berry than can be 

 grown without its use. When the man- 

 ure has been distributed I harrow again 

 and set the lines three feet apart. The 

 plants are set one foot asunder in the 

 rows, and in planting make them as firm 

 in the soil as possible. I plant the rows 

 three feet apart because cultivation must 

 be done as much as possible with horse 

 and cultivator. If I were planting a bed 

 in the garden for family use I would plant 

 at two feet between the rows, as the 

 spade would be used in that case instead 

 of the cultivator. Keep all runners cut 

 off, as they weaken the plants. In culti- 

 vating I use fit St a small cabbage plow 

 with no mold board which can be run 

 close to therowsif they have been planted 

 straight. In a couple of weeks, or sooner 

 if the weeds start, follow with the culti- 

 vator and so on alternately. About the 

 end of July or the beginning of August I 

 allow a few runners to root, so as to 

 make what is termed a "matted row" 

 about 10 inches wide. When freezing 

 weather comes I topdress the rows with 

 manure, doing it when the ground is 

 frozen to avoid injury to the plants. 

 When this has been done give a mulch of 

 salt hay, and if this can be put on just 

 before a snow storm it will be all the bet- 



ter, as the snow will hold the hay in place 

 until it is settled down and safe from high 

 winds. When growth begins the follow- 

 ing spring draw the mulching between 

 the rows and push it under and between 

 the plants to keep the fruit clean. I am 

 not a believer in spring cultivation of 

 strawberries. If any lai-ge weeds make 

 their appearance pull them out. When 

 the crop has been gathered I rake up the 

 mulching and start the plow, cutting oft' 

 the edges of the rows as I go. A good 

 fertilizer liberally applied at this time 

 between the rows will help to give the 

 plants a fresh start and prepare them for 

 doing service another year, which should 

 be all that is expected from that bed. I 

 have said nothing about the hoe. Of 

 course it is in constant use in a straw- 

 berry "patch." P. F. 

 Market Gardener, Westchester Co. , N. Y. 



FIGS IN fl COLD ORflPERy. 



Having a cold grapery 40 feet long by 

 15 feet wide, a lean-to structure with 

 southern exposure, in which I grow the 

 Hamburgh, Gros Colman and Madres- 

 field Court varieties of grapes can I grow 

 some figs on the back wall inside ..he 

 house with the grapes by preparing a 

 bed or border along the wall and laying 

 the plants down every winter and pro- 

 tecting the same as I do the grapes. If 

 so, what varieties of figs do you recom- 

 mend for that purpose? ' f. L. 



Milford, Pa. 



You can grow figs splendidly in such a 

 grapery provided they are not too much 

 shaded in summer; if the shade is heavy 

 move them to the end of the vinery where 

 they can get more light. Bury them in 

 winter as you suggest, or lay them down 

 and cover them with mats or straw. Fig 

 trees are fairly hardy under such circum- 

 stances; in fact when grown outside alto- 

 gether and buried in winter as we do 

 raspberry canes or grape vines they live 

 perfectly and bear finely in the openairin 

 summer. White Marseilles and Brown 

 Turkey are fine large-fruited, easily grown 

 sorts, either for indoor or outside culti- 

 vation. Don't give them very much root 



SPRflYINO FRUIT TREES IN HEN yflRD. 



If the orchard is u.sed for the hen yard, 

 how long after spraying the trees would 

 it be best to wait before allowingthe hens 

 their liberty. FCC 



Bath, Me. 



If Bordeaux mixture alone is used, 

 there will be no danger in putting hens in 

 at once; and even if Paris green is used, 

 there would probably be no danger. Ex- 

 periments have been' made to show that 

 stock turned in orchards, immediately 

 after they were very thoroughly sprayed, 

 suffered no injury. Much will depend 

 upon the way in which the spraying is 

 done. An orchard can be so sprayed that 

 the grass will be very little wet, but if the 

 grass is pretty thoroughly covered with 

 the spray, I should certainly wait a few 

 days before turning in the hens; in fact, it 

 is always safer to do this anyhow. Some 

 remarks upon this question will be found 

 in Lodeman's new book on the "Spraying 

 of Plants." L.H. Bailey. 



Cornell Universitv. 



BERRy OROWINO. 



Berry growing, like market gardening, 

 requires the greatest concentration of 

 good soil, labor and thought. Too much 

 land is the bane of most fruit growing as 

 well as farming. Success would be more 

 certain if acreage were divided and fer- 

 tility, preparation and cultivation in- 

 creased. Intensified gardening and con- 

 centration of energy are the diamond 

 drills that bore out success. Take coun- 

 sel from books, papers and practical 

 growers, but let it be tempered with your 

 own best judgment and experience. 

 Actual knowledge and practical experi- 

 ence should go hand in hand. I^t the 

 beginner commence moderately, and go 

 slow. Do only what can be well done. 

 Nothing but the best product will pay. 

 I'se a limited variety of best plants, pro- 

 ducing large, firm, attractive fruit. Have 

 note book ready and make a complete 

 record of all facts and dates for future 

 reference. M. A. Th.wer. 



Sparta, Wis. 



BlflCKBERRIES-STRflWBERRIES. 



A Michigan reader asks about the Eldo- 

 rado and Minniwaski blackberries; also 

 the best all-round late strawberry. 



I cannot speak of Minniwaski and Eldo- 

 rado blackberry from experience. We 

 have not fruited them, but I understand 

 they are good for home use or near mar- 

 ket, but too soft for long shipment. The 

 Briton I believe is superior to all others. 

 The best late strawberry is Parker Earle 

 (s), Gandy(s) not prolific, and Eureka(p). 

 The Earle requires very rich ground. 



Sparta, Wis. M. A. Th.vvhr. 



TheJap.\n Quince fruit makes excel- 

 lent jelly, it has a distinct flavor of its 

 own. It fruits abundantly on Long Isl- 

 and and elsewhere in the country, but it 

 isn't a shrub that is ever likely to be cul- 

 tivated for its fruit alone. What a differ- 

 ence there is in size and form between the 

 fruits of some of the plants, most asmuch 

 difference as there is in tint of their 

 blossoms. 



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