Propagation of Herbaceous Perennials 



By William Lamb. 



SEED SOWING. 



This group of plants is so large and varied that it would 

 be impossible to give fixed rules and methods that would 

 apply equally well to them all ; at the same time they do 

 fall into groups by which they may be considered in- 

 telligently and to which general principles may be applied. 



A thorough plantsman can usually tell by the look of 

 a plant if it is possible to propagate it from cuttings, or 

 if it will be necessary to layer, bud, graft or by division, 

 or if it will come true from seed. 



Propagation by seed is the most natural method and a 

 great majority of Herbaceous Perennials may be propa- 

 gated in this manner. 



There is a decided advantage in having a greenhouse 

 that can be used for propagating perennials ; operations 

 can be started in January, and in the case of certain cut- 

 tings, early in December. 



The greenhouse requires no special construction, so 

 long as it is light and the temperature can be kept to about 

 55 degrees at night in cold weather. 



Seed boxes should be made three inches deep and a 

 uniform size to fill the entire space on the bench, so no 

 room may be wasted. If for any reason the seed boxes 

 must be shifted or the seedlings become large enough to 

 j^rick oft', the boxes can be readily closed up or others set 

 in their places. When making boxes always allow for 

 drainage by leaving cracks between the boards or bore 

 holes in them. 



When preparing the seed boxes put a layer of rocks in 

 the bottom, then about one inch of well-rotted manure 

 after which fill with screened soil, level with the top of the 

 box. Use the fingers to press the soil down firm and 

 even, the center will be found firm enough, work the soil 

 toward the corners when it is loose. Wlien ready for 

 sowing the seed, the surface of the soil should be level 

 and about one-half inch below the top edge of the box. 



Judgment must be used as to how thick seed should 

 be sown. Large seed, such as Lupinus polyphyllus, re- 

 quire more space than small seed like Heuchera san- 

 guinea. 



A box 16 inches by 19 inches will produce three or four 

 hundred Lathyrus latifolius, while the same box would 

 grow almost as many thousand Campanula carjjatica 

 seedlings ready for pricking oft^ or transplanting. 



After sowing the seed, press it into the soil with a 

 small piece of smooth board, then all the seed will be 

 about the same depth, and if covered evenly with fine 

 screened soil, most of the little seedlings will break 

 through the ground at the same time. 



Wooley or winged seed, such as Anemone Pulsatilla. 

 Gaillardia, Echinops, etc., cannot be pressed into the soil 

 like .\(|uilegia. Campanula, Lychnis and other hard seed, 

 and require more soil for covering. 



When sowing seed outside, a good rule to follow is to 

 cover the seed with soil, a depth equal to the thickness of 

 the seed. This is not necessary inside, especially if the 

 seed be pressed down evenly with a board ; harm can only 

 come from watering improperly. 



A thorough watering shoukl be given with a can and 

 fine rose, after sowing the seed and the box has been set 

 on the bench or in the place where it is going to remain 

 while the seed is germinating. Never handle a box of 

 seed just after watering, as a crust is sure to form on top 

 of the soil. Nothing else but a can and fine rose should 

 ever be used when watering seed boxes or small seedlings. 



Shade the seed boxes with paper until the seedlings 

 begin to break through the soil. The shade keeps the 

 soil moist, helps to prevent the covering of soil forming 

 a crust on top of the seedlings, and seed will germinate 

 more quickly in the dark. 



The shade must be removed when the seedlings begin 

 to break through the soil or they will grow lanky and 

 damp oft'. 



Begin in January by sowing seed that will germinate 

 quickl}-, such as Bellis perennis, Myosotis palustris, Alys- 

 sum saxatile, etc., follow every couple of days by sowing 

 a few more boxes of seed, so they will not all be ready for 

 pricking oft' about the same time. This work can then be 

 taken care of without extra help until work begins out- 

 side, about the first of March. 



While it requires two or three weeks for seed to germi- 

 nate in January, one or two weeks is sufficient time to 

 germinate the same seed in the latter part of February 

 and March. 



It is best to sow seed of new plants and very small 

 quantities of seed about the first of March, for the largest 

 percentage of seed to germinate. I have found a great 

 many kinds of seed will produce the greatest percentage 

 of seedlings if sown outside a couple of weeks after it 

 has ripened on the plants. 



Alwavs allow for two or three sowings of the same 

 kind of seed. Sow about one-third of the packet of seed 

 at the first sowing, in case of failure through dull weather 

 or other causes, enough will be left to try again, when 

 the weather is more favorable. There are more clear 

 (lavs as spring approaches and the sun gives more heat 

 each day. 



The temperature should not go below 55 degrees at 

 night and 65 degrees in the tlay. The ventilators should 

 he opened every day,, if only for a short time, no matter 

 how cold it may be outside. This will help to prevent the 

 voung seedlings from damping off, especially in January 

 and February, when there are so many dull days. It 

 freshens the inside atmosphere and heljis to keep down 

 a large family of aphis. 



The seedlings will grow so thick at times as to raise the 

 soil in a crust, instead of pushing through it. This crust 

 is formed of the fine soil used when covering the seed at 

 the time of sowing. This crust must be taken off to .save 

 the seedlings; if it will not wash down between the little 

 plants after watering, lift it off with a thin piece of wood, 

 a label is usually most convenient. 



Seedlings are ready for pricking off or transplanting, 

 when the first set of leaves have formed, after the seed 

 leaves. 



\'ery small seedlings, such as Lobelia, .\stilbe. Cam- 

 panula, etc., are best left to grow until they are large 

 enough to handle, before an attempt is made to trans- 

 plant them. If seedlings grow too thick and begin to 

 damp oft', have them pricked off at once. An experienced 

 boy will transplant some very small seedlings and they 

 will grow, too. 



Count on getting twelve hundred good seedlings from 

 each bo.x of seed sown and one hundred good jjlants from 

 each box of seedlings, when they are ready for potting or 

 planting out. 



For pricking off seedlings, use the same size boxes as 

 for sowing seeds : they may be shifted about and fill all 

 the space on the bench. 



.•\ box 16 in. x 19 in. will hold, as a rule, ten rows of 



