THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE OF AMERICA. 



337 



much as is necessary to restore the balance between roots 

 and branches which existed before the tree was dug up. 

 This balance is generally an unknown quantity, and it is 

 always better to give the roots the benefit of any doubt by 

 pruning the branches rather severely. 



It has been argued against severe pruning at the time of 

 transplanting that, since the growth of roots is dependent 

 upon the action of leaves, the destruction, or rather, the 

 prevention of the formation of leaves by pruning the 

 branches will retard the growth of roots just when they 

 are most needed. This is doubtless true from one point 

 of view, but the evaporation of moisture from leaves has 

 to be taken into consideration. If the leaves are not re- 

 duced the juices of the tree will be exhausted by leaf 

 evaporation before the roots become sufficiently active to 

 supply the demand, and before the roots are renewed or 

 regain their activity the plant may be completely drained 

 of its sap, and then, of course, perish. 



Root growth is not, however, always dependent upon 

 a simultaneous action of foliage. Trees planted in the 

 autumn (say early in October) will immediately com- 

 mence to form fresh roots, and will continue to do so 

 more or less far into the winter, the period being greatly 

 lengthened by having the ground above the roots well 

 mulched. In the absence of leaves there is practically no 

 loss from evaporation, so that the sap of the tree will 

 furnish material for root growth, instead of being ex- 

 hausted in the air. The condition of the soil, too, is more 

 favorable in autumn for root growth than in the spring, 

 as it is at that time several degrees warmer than the air, 

 while there is no tendency to growth by the buds, so 

 that in autumn planting less pruning will be required. 

 All other things being equal, an autumn planted tree will 

 make more vigorous growth the following summer than 

 one planted in the spring. 



Another part of a growing tree which it is sometimes 

 necessary to prune is the root. 



It is, perhaps, difficult to solve all the reasons which will 

 influence a plant to convert some of its buds into flowers 

 while others will only produce shoots. There are, how- 

 ever, certain facts, which have been established by ob- 

 servation, upon which reliance can be placed. 



One of the most apparent certainties in this connection 

 is, that rapid and luxuriant growth and a fruitful habit do 

 not simultaneously exist in the same plant. Young trees 

 if very vigorous, do not fruit, or at all events produce 

 very little. When a tree has reached a fruit-bearing size 

 and age, and shows no indication of fruiting but con- 

 tinues to maintain a vigorous growth of wood, it is evi- 

 dently barren from excessive lu.xuriance and judicious 

 root-pruning will have the effect of diminishing the 

 growth of wood and encouraging the formation of fruit 

 buds. Cutting away excessive growth in trees of this 

 habit will only aggravate the evil. 



While it is a fact that circumstances which tend to 

 check rapid vegetation are more favorable to the produc- 

 tion of flower buds than of leaf buds, care must be taken 

 tliat the circimistances are such that do not affect the 

 health of the individual plant. 



The non-fruiting of trees is often caused by the roots 

 going down into the subsoil, and in a case of this kind the 

 roots so growing must be cut off. This is generally 

 caused by bad planting and after neglect. Our fore- 

 fathers used to sometimes place paving stones under fruit 

 trees to prevent this, but as a matter of fact, if a tree is 

 properly planted in well-prepared soil and then sufficiently 

 fed by top dressing, the roots will not attempt to go 

 down and the natural instinct of the plant will cause it 

 to send its roots where they can find food. 



Thus far the subject has been very briefly dealt with 

 in a general w'ay, but it may be useful to shortly consider 

 it specially with reference to different kinds of trees. 



The heads of all orchard fruit trees should be started 

 low down, about two feet above the ground, to facilitate 

 spraving and picking. For private gardens the dwarfs 

 are the best to plant, and I believe the time will come 

 when these will also be considered the best for com- 

 mercial purposes. 



The first prmning necessary is when the trees are 

 planted, the next will be with idea of forming a well- 

 shaped top. To secure this attention mtist be grven to the 

 arrangement and equality of growth of the young shoots 

 from the earliest possible moment in the tree's life. If any 

 of the shoots show superior vigor to the detriment of 



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