Planting Trees in September 



In former years it was uiuisual to plant trees until 

 the leaves had fallen in autunin, which was in October 

 as a rule, but it is now well known that the work can 

 be done (and with safety) much earlier than that; it 

 can be done a month earlier, at least, says The Florists' 

 Exchange. The leaves of deciduous trees, although 

 still fast to the branches, have fulfilled their mission, 

 practically, and can be stripped from the trees with no 

 perceptible harm whatever. There is, then, nothing 

 more to wait for; instead there is every reason to plant 

 the tree at once. The soil is warm, and if not moist, 

 can be made so, bringing al)out an unequaled condition 

 for the quick formation of roots by the trees planted. 

 It is like placing cuttings in bottom heat in a green- 

 house. The roots of the planted tree quickly respond 

 to the tempting conditions, as any one can prove by 

 digging up such a tree in a few weeks after it has been 

 planted and observing the new roots made since the 

 planting. 



The method of preparing and planting deciduous 

 Stock is as follows : The foliage is stripped completely 

 from the branches, and if pruning, to bring the tree 

 into shape or for other purposes is desirable, it is done 

 at the same time. The hole being prepared for it, the 

 tree is set in position and filling in commenced with 

 fine ^oil — the finer the better for what is thrown in 

 first, even if very sandy, in order that it may fit closely 

 around every root. Some planters simply use sand for 

 the first few spadefuls. The filling in goes on until the 

 hole is nearly half filled, when enough water is poured 

 in to carr\- the soil solidly close to the roots, an essen- 

 tial point in planting. When the w'ater has soaked 

 away, fill up the hole a little more, but not completely, 

 as the following day another soaking with water must 

 be done. In fact, should the weather be dry there 

 need be no hurry to fill up entirely, as more water 

 may be given a few days later, after which the job can 

 be completed, and the tree or shrub considered quite 

 safe. When such planting is done early in the month, 

 there is hardly a tree or shrub which could be named 

 but that might be considered safe to plant then, the 

 point being that they become established before 

 winter sets in, owing to the -formation of new roots. 



There is little difference in the planting when the 

 work is not done until after the leaves fall. The water- 

 ing is not so important then, as the formation of new 

 roots is not looked for; still, the writer believes that at 

 any time of the year water is a help, if only to carry 

 the fine soil closely to the roots. It can never harm 

 the tree, while usually benefiting it. 



Coming to evergreens, the fact that they are ever- 

 green calls for greater care in the operation of plant- 

 ing. It is not practical)le to strip the leaves, except it 

 be in the case of Hollies, and similar broad leaved 

 sorts, but it is possible often to prune them in a way to 

 lessen the quantity carried, and whenever it can be 

 done, it should be. The greater care referred to will 

 be in the way of being sure the specimens are dug care- 

 fully, carrying a ball of soil whenever possible, the 

 wrapping of the roots in damp bags or burlap, keeping 

 in mind that there is little but wasting time in planting 

 an evergreen, the roots of which have lieen allowed to 

 dry out. It is usually tlic practice to tie the branches 

 of evergreens closely together when transplanting 



both for their own protection and to render the opera- 

 tion of planting easier. It will be found an excellent 

 plan to have them so tied up for several days after 

 being planted, as one branch protects another, and 

 when sprayed with water for a few days afterward, the 

 moisture is retained among the foliage for some time, 

 greatly to the advantage of the operation. In the mat- 

 ter of filling in ihe hole when planted, it is to be done 

 in the same way as for deciduous stock, with the addi- 

 tion of giving more attention to providing lots of 

 water. The foliage has to be supplied, as well as the 

 branches, which calls for more water, and it will be 

 beneficial to fill up the hole with water every day for 

 a week after planting, unless rains come and do it for 

 one. It is hardly possible that too much water can be 

 given for a time after planting, but this should cease in 

 about a week, unless a drought comes. If the planting 

 is a success, it will be evident in a week's time, and 

 should it not appear to be, more water will not help it. 

 Regarding the planting of evergreens later in the sea- 

 son, while it may be done in the South, it is not advis- 

 able where heavy freezings ma}' be expected in 

 winter. Better let it be until early spring. 



The increasing call for evergreens in pots for winter 

 use should be remembered now and provided for. It 

 is much better to pot them now than but a short time 

 before being used. The object should be to do it early 

 to permit of new roots forming, and thus establishing 

 the plants before they are called on for use. ^\'hen 

 taken to dwellings for decorative purposes, the change 

 is trying on the plants. If but a short time since they 

 were potted, the change is often fatal to them. Potted 

 now they would be in good condition for winter use 

 and for forming assortments at horticultural exhibits 

 and in other ways. 



\\'hat has been aforesaid of the advantages of having 

 the plants well established in pots applies as well to 

 such as are desired for indoor grafting in winter. It 

 is not uncommon to see pines, firs and other ever- 

 greens taken up from outdoors in autumn, heeled in 

 somewhere, and not potted until wanted for grafting. 

 Such a way is always disappointing. Often the stock 

 is but in a moribund condition, unable to support it- 

 self, leave alone the scion which is placed on it in 

 grafting. One wants a stock well established before 

 grafting it, and this would result if it was potted and 

 cared for now, to be grafted just as its buds are about 

 bursting in the greenhouse. 



Root pruning of trees, looking forward to future 

 planting, may well be considered now. Trees pruned 

 in this way during September would be in a better 

 condition for planting in spring than otherwise. There 

 would be new roots forming before winter, which 

 would be an aid toward success when the spring work 

 started, and in still better condition if a year elapsed 

 before being transplanted. 



One more subject must be referred to in connection 

 with autumn planting — that of a proper mulching of 

 the ground above the roots on the approach of winter. 

 It rnay be manure, leaves or straw, or even soil itself 

 piled on the ground, the chief object being to keep the 

 roots from freezing. This is of the utmost import- ^ 

 ance, as it permits of the activity of the roots all win- ' 

 ter, which otherwise would be greatly retarded by 

 frozen soil about them. A thickness of some six 

 inches of soil is of great assistance, to be removed in 

 spring. Manure is better, because of the food carried 

 down to the roots, as well as the protection from frost. 



