THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE OF AMERICA. 



7Hi 



clioice variety which you have set }our heart upon, get 

 them as early as possible and keep in a cool place until 

 sowing time arrives. 



Before we sow, or perhaps before we buy, it will be in 

 order to determine how many seeds we require. On the 

 basis of six rows 50 feet long, it will require 600 plants 

 to space the plants six inches apart, which is quite thick 

 enough. At any rate, if we start to raise 600 the chances 

 are that from one cause or another a few will succumb 

 between germination and planting out time. If they do 

 we can plant eight inches apart and this will fill up the 

 rows and possibly give better flowers than if planted six 

 inches apart. To raise our 600 ])lants we must put in 

 about 9OO seeds, estimating a 70 per cent, germination, 

 which is about what we may reasonably expect. At the 

 outside, it will only require three ounces, as each ounce 

 contains more than .lOO seeds. 



This immediately brings u]) the question of what is 

 the best time to sow. While personally convinced by rea- 

 soning that the autumn is the ideal time to sow in pots or 

 flats, carrying the plants through the winter in frames 

 or a very cool greenhouse, and planting out as usual in 

 spring, and while I am following this method this winter, 

 still I do not feel that I have given it a sufficient trial to 

 advocate it conscientiously. 



The system I have followed for several years is to sow 

 in small pots about the middle of February or the be- 

 ginning of March. Before sowing we treat the seed with 

 cultures of the nitrifying bacteria, believing for the small 

 expense and trouble involved in this operation that the 

 possible results make it well worth while, but I will not 

 enter into the details of nitro-cultures, as full directions 

 alwavs accompany each purchase, any more than to say 

 its application is very simple. 



The .seed being sown, we prefer to germinate at a tem- 

 perature not less than 50. because at lower temperatures 

 the whites and creams especially are very liable to rot. 

 Some advocate the filing or chipping of the seed coat, and 

 others soaking in tepid water to promote more rapid ger- 

 mination, but at the temperature mentioned, and with 

 plenty of water, we have never found these aids neces- 

 sary. .-Vs soon as germination has taken place and the 

 growing points are above the soil, a temperature of 45, 

 or even lower at night, will suit. During the day a free 

 circulation of air is always desirable, as if the plants are 

 in any way coddled the natural resistance to disease will 

 be impaired and instead of a thrifty, hardy plant, we 

 shall have nothing but weaklings. .-Xs soon as weather 

 Ijermits remove the plants to a cold frame, as the sooner 

 they get away from artificial heat the better, and on every 

 favorable occasion remove the sash completely so that 

 the air may have full freedom to play around the i)lants. 

 Needless to sav, they must never be allowed to suft'er 

 from lack of water, or to become starved for the want 

 of repotting. According to locality the plants may ,gen- 

 erallv be planted out in their permanent cjuarters from 

 .April 10 to May 1. 



Still, cloudv weather is the ideal condition for planting, 

 as on such a day the injury to the plant from temporary 

 exposure of its roots will lie a minimum. The trenches 

 should have been moderately firiued by walking over 

 them and then raked over finely. Do not fear to open the 

 ball and spread out the roots, even at the risk of break- 

 ing a few rootlets, as the advantages gained by doing 

 so will more than ofl:'set any little damage. In planting 

 be sure to press the soil into intimate contact with all the 

 roots, and if the soil be on the dry side follow the i^lant- 

 ing with a goofl watering and then hoe the ground thor- 

 oughly. 



Let not those who have no facilities to do all these 

 things despair, because much might be accomplished 

 where the interest is great, and even if we are obliged to 



sow directly outside, providing we thoroughly prepare 

 the soil in some such luanner as here advised, and if our 

 subsequent treatment is of the right kind, very gratifying 

 results may follow. If we must sow in the open, let us 

 make drills about two or three inches deep on top of the 

 prepared trenches and sow just as early as possible, put- 

 ting the seeds about an inch apart, so as to allow for 

 lo.';ses : then if thev come up fairly thick, take out enough 

 to leave the plants from six to eight inches apart. 



Going back to our plants which we left just planted 

 Old. it is advisal)le to place all around them some bushy 

 brush about a foot or so high, as it will afford some 

 slight protection from cold, biting winds, which may be 

 expected at this early season and will give the plants the 

 comforting feeling of having something at hand to cling 

 to as soon as they feel the need of it. 



For permanent supports for sweet peas there is nothing 

 better than good brush, six to eight feet tall, set firmly 

 in the ground, but as this is sometimes rather difficult to ' 

 obtain, a fairly good substitute will be found in large 

 meshed poultry wire nailed to posts. 



Having provided good supports for the plants, ihe 

 routine work will be to keep the ground hosed as fre- 

 ciuently as possible and to prevent overcrowding. A 

 little judicious thinning will occasionally have to be prac- 

 ticed h\ cutting away superfluous shoots. If flower buds 

 should appear before the plants have reached about three 

 feet in lieight, it will be a good plan to disbud them, as 

 too early flowering will militate against the future well- 

 being of the plant, but when the jiiants have acquired the 

 requisite height and strength and flowering l)egins in 

 earnest, you must be sure to keep all flowers picked clean 

 as if anv go to seed the plants will soon cease growing, 

 and your season will come to an abrupt end. 



After the jilants have been flowering for some length 

 of time, the careful grower may note that the flower 

 stems are getting shorter and that there is a slack- 

 ening of growth generally. Here at this time is where 

 some quick acting manure, well watered, will give the 

 required stimulation and in a few days growth will be 

 back to the normal and may be kept there by repetition of 

 some such methods as have just been suggested. 



The question might well be asked here, \M:at .shall we 

 use to feed and .stimulate our plants into growth? I do 

 not believe there is any one thing very much better than 

 another, as long as good judgment is used in the applica- 

 tion, but I would especially urge beginners to err on the 

 short side, rather than over-do it. I have found that 

 after the plants have been flowering for a week or two 

 they will generallly stand a light feeding once a week 

 and bv the application of two pounds of nitrate of potash 

 dissolved in 50 gallons of water, and this amount applied 

 to each 50-foot row every two weeks, alternating the 

 week between with about five pounds of superphosphate 

 sprinkled along each row, will keep the plants tuned up 

 to their work at all times. If weak liquid manure is 

 available an occasional dose will be beneficial or a sprin- 

 kling of soot well watered in will do good not only as 

 food but as a tonic which seems to brighten and intcnsi- 

 fv the colors immensely. 



Mulching forms an important part in the treatment 

 of the sweet pea during our hot dry summers, but care 

 must be exercised here, as elsewhere. The two danger 

 points to avoid are getting it on too early and using too 

 close material. Wait until the ground has thoroughly 

 wanned up, which will not be till nearly the first of July, 

 and conserve the moisture in the meantime by frc(|uent 

 hoeings. If a mulch is put on too early in the season the 

 wroun^d is kept cold by the exclusion of the sun's ravs, and 

 tiie bacterial flora which inhabits the soil (and upon 

 which all plants must de|icnil in a large measure for their 



