July 12, 1913 



HORTICULTURE 



39 



FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CONDUCTED BY 



i>thrs^. 



Questions by our readers in line with any of the topics presented on ttiis page will be cordially received and promptly answered 

 by Mr. Penson. Such communications should invariably be addressed to the office of HORTICULTURE. 



Grapes Shanking 



This is a subject which has taken up space in every 

 horticultural paper devoting a portion of its columns to 

 tlie work and general management of growing fruit 

 under glass. It could rightly be called a vexed problem 

 of grape growing as the causes are many and very di- 

 vergent in character, being buried in the constitution of 

 the vine itself. In attempting to discuss it much that 

 has already been said on the subject must of necessity be 

 repeated, as the chief causes of grapes shanking are re- 

 peatedly coming to our notice. Sometimes the troubles 

 are to be combated singly while on the other hand it 

 may be a combination of circumstances that we are up 

 against. It is a well-known fact that vines which are 

 "up to their work" as we sometimes remark, are less 

 liable to shank than others that are cropped heavily. 

 Shanking is a disease which finds opportunity to develop 

 by the non-resistance of the berries attacked, weak in 

 constitution and unable to help themselves a little, — a 

 theory that is borne out by the fact that any seedless 

 berries that may have been left in a bunch are generally 

 the first to go. The old adage is still good here,' a pre- 

 ventive "cure" being the best, yet in spite of all the care 

 occasionally we find a few shanked berries. Lucky, too, 

 if we can always say "berries" as sometimes a shoulder 

 may go and again a whole bunch will shank so much that 

 it is practically worthless. A very common way for it 

 to act is to affect a few berries through the whole rod. 

 Possible causes are so many that I shall only deal with 

 some of these more frequently met with, tiie first in 

 prominence being over-cropping. This in itself is 

 responsible for much trouble. A vine is a very willing 

 servant and at the time of reducing the crop it often 

 seems a shame to take away so much of nature's bounty, 

 but in the best interests of the vine and crop, it has to 

 be done. Take into consideration the size of the bunches 

 also, as a large bunch at the time of thinning will be 

 correspondingly large at the time of cutting. Years of 

 over-cropping will so weaken a vine that nothing short of 

 a rest will recuperate it, w-hich must take place with 

 roots and foliage in normal condition. Irregularities 

 of these two vital organs will soon result in the subject 

 under discussion. Make the border right at the start: 

 have tlie roots under absolute control in well drained 

 soil ; water with judgment at all times, taking into con- 

 sideration the state of the vine and stage of growth. A 

 swelling crop will need a much greater supply of water 

 than a vine will require when resting. Make the border 

 of the best soil procurable with other ingredients to help 

 the roots later on. 



Weakened foliage, damaged by insect pests or other- 



wise, upsets the whole routine of daily functions caus- 

 ing the vine to exist rather than grow. The first thing 

 the disabled "parent" will do under these conditions is to 

 cast off some of the seed (otherwise fruit) it is carrying. 

 Thorough chills or checks will result in the same thing. 

 Some varieties will shank easier than others but it is an 

 unwelcome announcement on any vine. Vines that are 

 continually requested to hold their fruit for a consider- 

 able time after it is ripe have a strain on them which 

 may shank a few berries. Needless to say all shanked 

 berries should be removed before leaving the hands of 

 the man who cuts it. A^Tiere a rod is shanking a few 

 berries all through have them removed periodically. 



Figs 



Continue to give the figs a liberal treatment until 

 tile third crop has been "harvested." These may be 

 small in comparison to the preceding crops but they will 

 be verj' sweet and to any one liking this historical fruit 

 a treat will be in store for some little time yet. Plenty 

 of liquid manure will help them along but see that the 

 border is in a right condition to take it. To water a 

 border or tub with stimulant when it is dry is detri- 

 mental ; first soak it with clear water. Keep after Thrips, 

 Spider and Co. with a well directed force of water. 



Syringe or Spray 



These are two v.ords we are continually meeting with" 

 as we read over any kind of growing details, each denot- 

 ing that water, insecticide or fungicide is being applied: 

 to the subject under discussion. It so happens at times- 

 that we find either word used which to a beginner must 

 sometimes be bewildering. To syringe, draws our at- 

 tention to the instruments that stick in water and expel 

 it by force of hand. These instruments or tools are 

 used exclusively in some establishments in the Old World 

 today and from these the word is copied when using the 

 hose pipe with force with the object of dislodging any 

 insect pests that may he located there. When referring 

 to spraying it is just what the first part of the word 

 denotes, a sprinkling of water, applied in the interest 

 of the plants, not necessnrily to the detriment of pests. 

 To spray certain kinds of plants over three or four times 

 daily may be beneficial but to syringe them that often 

 would be to nearly drown them. We speak of the spray 

 from the sea, a gentle mist with no force and so should 

 we not makt" a correct distinction between the two words 

 in the horticultural world, as we have need of both in 

 (heir respective places. When spraying with insecticide 

 or fungicide the object is to get a fine spray or mist over 

 all the foliage and wood. .4fter this has done its work 

 follow it up with a syringing of clear water. 



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