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HOETICULTURE 



August 30, 1913 



FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CONDUCTED BY 



il-^ys^ 



Questions by our readers In line with any of the topics presented on this page will be cordially received and promptly answered 

 by Mr. Penson. Such communications should Invariably be addressed to the office of HORTICULTURE. 



Summer Pruning Peach Trees 



Those houses that haveliad the crop cleared for several 

 weeks and have been left to themselves doubtless will 

 have made some top growth. Any trees that have not 

 made growth must have been cropped very heavy or else 

 the roots are very stagnant. Similar to vines, it does 

 them good to grow for a while but the time is ripe to 

 think of the buds for next year. Not only the super- 

 fluous growth can be removed but the whole tree gone 

 over and all old worn-out or overcrowded wood removed. 

 This has got to be done anyhow when the winter pruning 

 comes on and by doing it now the wood remaining has 

 the benefit of more air and sun to ripen it up. Another 

 advantage to the pruner is that he can see what the tree 

 looks like with its foliage, which, if all the pruning is 

 left until winter, he can only surmise. Where it is 

 necessary to remove a piece of wood large enough to 

 make a noticeable hole, loosen one or two of those above 

 and draw them down to fill the gap. It is not intended 

 that this pruning should do away with the winter prun- 

 ing, it is only to remove worthless wood hampering the 

 development of next year's crop. 



Prepare to Pot-up Trees 



The time is not far distant when all the trees growing 

 in pots must receive their annual overhauling. This is 

 quite a job where any quantity are grown and needs 

 preparation, to save unnecessary delay after once com- 

 mencing. A supply of pots is needed — enough of all 

 requisite sizes to allow so many to be in the hands of the 

 washer and taking time to dry. Look over the stock on 

 hand and if deficient order at once as it may take a little 

 time to get them through. It is also better to use pots 

 that have stood out in the weather for a while rather than 

 new ones direct from the factory for, even if sprayed over 

 a time or two before using, they will still absorb a lot 

 of moisture. Always figure on giving the trees the 

 smallest shift possible; nothing is gained by pushing 

 them on into large pots or tubs. After several years' 

 forcing it may be advisable to use small tubs. Look 

 these trees up and order the tubs in suitable sizes at once. 

 Take special care of all broken pots found around. These 

 will be in big demand, nothing making such satisfactory 

 drainage for this work as crocks. 



Feeding Strawberries 



When the strawberry jilants have filled out the pots 

 with roots commence to feed them as they have a lot to 

 do in a short time. It can be given them in either liquid 

 form or sprinkled on the surface and pricked in. Start 



them off with some weak soot water; this can be fol- 

 lowed up with weak cow manure water, gradually work- 

 ing it up stronger. The same applies to dry manures. 

 Take care to keep this latter off the foliage. Never ap- 

 ply manure when the plants are dry and remember clear 

 water should be given the plants an equal number of 

 times as the manure water. 



Making up Mushroom Beds 



Immediately the manure is ready, have the beds made 

 up. Any delay means a loss to the manure. The same 

 morning that it is purposed to make up the beds mix in 

 a little virgin loam which has passed through a %-inch 

 seive, say about one part of soil to every six of manure. 

 This will help to steady the heat and make it more last- 

 ing. Ram the manure as firm as possible into the 

 benches, building it up in tiers six inches in thickness. 

 It cannot be made too hard so pound it down with brick 

 or rammer. When finished the beds should be from 15 

 to 18 inches thick. Even it off nicely, leaving it about 

 three inches below the proper height so that the casing 

 of soil can go on after spawning. Place a thermometer 

 in the bed, as it will commence to heat up at once. 

 Notice this at least twice daily. It will continue to rise 

 for about ten days, probably registering 100 to 110 de- 

 grees before any recession takes place. Wait until it 

 recedes to 85 degrees to 80 degrees before spawning. 



Melons for Christmas 



To have ripe melons for Christmas a sowing should be 

 made September 1st. With good melon-growing weather 

 (plenty of sunshine) through the fall this will have them 

 ripe a week or ten days previous to Christmas Day but 

 should it be any way averse they will make it all right. 

 At this time of year it is a very easy matter to hold them 

 up for a week or more just as they are turning, so be on 

 the safe side. Through the summer months the varie- 

 ties need not be studied to any great degree for if a 

 melon is to grow at all it surely must do so through the 

 good summer weather. Not so with the sowings from 

 now on. Many little troubles can be averted if the right 

 ones are put in now. That old and tried friend. Hero of 

 Lockinge, has not got an equal in the field for winter 

 work. Others there are that are good but if only a few 

 are to be grown bank on "Hero." It grows well through 

 any dull weather and sets its fruit well (two should be 

 the limit on these). The flavor, too, is good for winter 

 fruit. Another one we always include is His Emi- 

 nence, a white flesh of good habit which comes in sev- 

 eral days after Hero. Superlative can also be included ; 

 it makes one of the best table fruits. 



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