334 



HORTICULTURE 



September 6, 1913 



FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CONDUCTED BY 



J>t?V^i 



Qnestlons by onr readers In line with any of the topics presented on this page will be cordially received and promptly answered 

 by Mr. Penson. Such communications should Invariably be addressed to the office of HORTICDLTURE. 



The Fig House 



Fig trees will now be nearing the resting period 

 after producing three good crops. Even though there 

 may be a few fruits that are not quite ripe gradually 

 work them up to having full air night and day. If this 

 is done gradually these late fruits will finish aU right. 

 Keep the trees well syringed and do not let the roots 

 want for water. 



Melons Cracking 



It sometimes happens that just about the time a melon 

 should finish it cracks open — a most disappointing catas- 

 trophe, as it frequently happens that the crack is right 

 through the flesh and there is no chance to save it and 

 even were this possible it would be useless for the table. 

 If the crack is noticed the same day as it commences to 

 open, under suitable treatment it may be stopped before 

 it reaches the seed cavity, in which case it will finish up 

 and be edible but not presentable on the breakfast table. 

 This cracking is generally attributed to an excess of saj) 

 and energy at a time when nothing above normal is re- 

 quired. It must be remembered this happens just prior 

 to the fruit's "turning" (i. e., the first stage of ripen- 

 ing). Now, to boost a quantity of quick-acting feed 

 into them at this stage is seeking trouble, not only from 

 cracking, for it will affect the flavor. Instead of slight- 

 ly diminishing the water at the roots, increasing the 

 same at this stage may have the same effect. To keep 

 a house closer than usual in a morning, causing an ex- 

 cess in temperature of fifteen or twenty degrees when a 

 slightly lower than normal would be more congenial, may 

 also cause some of the fruits to crack. If detected in 

 time to save the fruit make a slight cut in the lateral 

 earr}'ing it to check the flow of sap. It will be found a 

 distinct advantage to cut out a small portion of the stem 

 V-shaped. By just making an insertion of the knife 

 some sap at times will pass through and the cut heal up. 

 Keep the bouse a trifle cooler, omitting shutting up close 

 in the afternoon and evening, also keep the roots a trifle 

 dryer but not dried out. This treatment will have the 

 desired effect. 



Winter Cucumbers 



Make a sowing of cucumbers to furnish the winter 

 crops during this month. These plants can be raised all 

 the year round the same as melons but it pays to have 

 them growing well before the short days come on. They 

 have an advantage over melons as they crop continually 



tmtil worn out, whereas their sister of the same order 

 has to set a crop when it shows and be through with it. 

 It is not necessary to plant up a whole house as is the 

 case with melons. A young growing plant will take the 

 same care, temperature, and atmosphere as a plant that 

 is cutting fruit. Where a continuous supply is required 

 for home consumption divide the house or houses to be 

 given up to them into five parts, planting one-fifth of the 

 space every ten days. If this is started the first of Sep- 

 tember it will mean the last sowing will be made on the 

 ■JOth of October which is plenty late enough to get any 

 kind of growth on them before Christmas. These will 

 carry on fruiting until the plants sown the first of the 

 year come in. Sow the seeds singly in three-inch pots in 

 light soil, giving them a night temperature of 70 degrees, 

 which must not be reduced at any time if the best results 

 are to be obtained. It is a strange coincidence that one 

 oC the older varieties of cucumbers is still to the front 

 the same as Hero of Lockinge melon that was referred 

 to last week. This is Telegraph cucumber. True it has 

 lieon improved and is known as Improved Telegraph but 

 it still carries the same qualities. For an all-round va- 

 riety this will be found equal to any. There are some of 

 the newer ones which excel it in some respects; take 

 Matchless for instance, which will often beat it in size 

 but not in the quantity produced. Every Day again will 

 produce more fruits but they are smaller. 



Spawning Mushroom Beds 



When the temperature of newly-made mushroom beds 

 has receded to about 85 degrees insert the spawn. Take 

 care that the thermometer has been registering from the 

 same depth as the spawn will be placed at and also be 

 sure the bed is receding in temperature : should it he 

 standing at 85 wait until it shows a downward tendency, 

 as this is the limit in heat. Some growers will spawn at 

 a lower temperature and while the crops may be good 

 they will take longer to come. Break the bricks of 

 spawn up into pieces about the size of a hen's egg and 

 insert them nine or ten inches apart and six inches deep. 

 Do not cover the bod right away when spawning at this 

 high temperature, but leave it about five days when it 

 will have gone down several degrees and then case it 

 over with virgin loam about an inch-and-a-half thick. 

 ^Fushrooms will be ready to pick in six weeks under 

 favorable conditions. It will be advisable to damp the 

 surface of the beds over together with the walls, etc., 

 once or twice a day if the cellar is not naturally damp. 

 Keep the temperature from 50 to 55 degrees at all times. 

 Continue to make up new beds for successive crops. 



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HorticMltnre 



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