September 13, 1913 



HOETICULTUEE 



36.> 



NOTES ON CULTURE OF FLORISTS' STOCK 



CONDUCTED BY 



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pl.Pt/IA^l/ 



Qaestlons by onr readers In line with any of the topics presented on this page will te cordially received and promptly answered 

 by Mr. Farrell. Such communications should Invariably be addressed to the office of HORTICULTURE. 



Get Yoar Compost Sapply 



Any time within the next six weeks is a good time to 

 lay up compost for next season's use. Select some loamy 

 pasture and cut the sod about four or five inches deep. 

 This can be built up into square piles five feet or more 

 high, placing a layer of well rotted cow manure between 

 each layer of sod. There should be at least one-third of 

 manure to two-thirds of sod. Before hard frosty 

 weather sets in it should be chopped down and turned 

 over, to hasten decomposition. With the winter's frost 

 and snow this compost will be in a fine mechanical con- 

 dition by next spring. Plenty of sod is the foundation 

 for success in all horticultural operations under the 

 glass. 



Lifting Shrubs for Forcing 



These should be lifted now as greater success will fol- 

 low potting up now than a month later. Shrubs potted 

 now will have several weeks in which to form fresh root 

 fibres before the winter comes. Use pots or tubs that 

 will just hold them conveniently. Give them a good, 

 strong compost, say to three of fibrous loam use one of 

 manure and give each pot plenty of drainage. Work 

 the compost well in and around the roots. Set them 

 where they can have shade for four or five days; but 

 after that they should be given a place where they can 

 have full sunshine. Extra care will have to be exer- 

 cised in watering as some will dry out more quickly than 

 others. When the weather becomes cold in November 

 they can be placed where their pots will not break, but 

 keep as cool as possible. 



Making Outside Lily Beds 



Those who intend to make up new beds or replant old 

 ones can plant any time now and up to November. The 

 best way to make a lily bed is to first throw out the soil to 

 the depth of about 15 inches, and on the bottom place a 5 

 or 6-inch layer of sand and leaf mold to insure perfect 

 drainage. Fill in on this loam any old manure mixed 

 at the rate of two-thirds loam to one-third of manure. 

 This can be filled within about six inches of the top of 

 the bed. On this set the bulbs, leaving twelve inches 

 between each bulb and cover with about an inch of sand 

 all over, finishing with loam up to the top of the bed. 

 When the ground has formed a frozen crust of about half 

 an inch, spread four or five inches of forest leaves all 

 over the bed and when the weather becomes colder, place 

 about four inches of horse manure over the leaves. This 

 protection will keep them in good order through the 

 winter. 



Nephrolepis 



Ferns of the original Boston type, as also some of the 

 newer forms, that were planted into benches last spring, 

 have done very well and are now a mass of erect, sturdy 

 frondage. It is now time to work this up into salable 

 form, if not already taken in hand. It is only when 

 afforded sufficient time, after being made up into speci- 

 men plants in the transfer from bench to pot that these 

 ferns become the best of marketable decorative stock. A 

 good compost is three parts fibrous loam, two of leaf 

 mold and one of well-rotted and sifted cow manure. See 

 that the pots are well cleaned and have good drainage. 

 One of the surest ways to kill a fern is to let it wilt from 

 being too dry at the roots. Another way but a trifle 

 slower in its workings is to keep it in a soaked and soggy 

 condition for any length of time. This suggests the 

 exercise of watchfulness in the watering of ferns of all 

 kinds, but Boston in particular during periods of ab- 

 normal weather conditions wants care in this line. 



Transplanting Large Palms 



When very large plants must be transplanted the work 

 is usually put off until September, this being considered 

 the best time for all such operations. However, one 

 should not wait until the roots assisted by the decaying 

 wood have fairly consumed the tubs or boxes, and eaten 

 their way through the crumbling wood. When repotting 

 large palms, make the compost rich, say to three of 

 chopped sod use one of well decayed manure, and about 

 a five-inch pot of bone meal to every barrow load of soil. 

 By making use of properly rigged tackle the plant is 

 raised, the new tub placed under it, the plant let down 

 into it, worked about until it is exactly in the center, 

 straight up and'down and just right as to the depth in 

 the box, and now the new soil is rammed into the remain- 

 ing space all around, after which a thorough soaking will 

 complete the job. Keep your palms clean by examining 

 them every ten days and when needed giving a thorough 

 cleaning to prevent insects from gaining a foothold. 



Starting Fires 



There are quite a few florists who have had their fires 

 started by the end of August, but there are others who 

 do not start them until the last thing. We have now 

 come to the season where we have the chilly nights and 

 the majority of plants will need fire heat right along now. 

 There is no good in trying to save coal at the expense of 

 growing stock, for when they once get a check they seem 

 to hold it well into the new year, so run a little heat in 

 all your houses as it makes the atmosphere better. 



Mr. Farrell's next notes will be on the following: 



Cattleyas; Eucharis; Cyclamen; Hydrangeas; Jerusalem Cherry; 

 Acacias and Genistas. 



Wintering 



