662 



HORTICULTURE 



November 15, 1913 



FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



coNnrcTKH by 



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-'i^Vv.i 



Questions by our readers In line with any of the topics presented cm this p;ice will be cordially received and promptly answered 

 by Mr. Penson. Such commnnications should Invarialily he addressed to the office of HORTICULTDRE. 



Pruning Peach Trees 



The pruning of peach and nectarine trees differs 

 vastl}- from that of the vine. The chief reason is that 

 the vine f raits on the wood that it makes the same year 

 while the peach or nectarine fruits next year on the 

 wood tliat has been made this year, hence the motive 

 for retaining as much of last year's wood as possible at 

 the time of pruning. The flower buds will be visible on 

 all wood so, where there is a doubt as to which is the 

 best piece to leave, select that having the most flowers. 

 The maximum amount of flowers for the coming season 

 can be gauged on peach and nectarine trees by the pres- 

 ence of the flower buds which are formed during the 

 fall, ninety-five per cent of which should produce a per- 

 fect flower. Where disbudding was correctly done in 

 the spring, and summer pruning was also attended to, 

 the winter pruning will be very simple. These two op- 

 erations just mentioned are the key note to well-trained 

 peach trees. Disbudding leaves just the required num- 

 ber of growths in (he right position to cover the trellis 

 properly and the summer pruning removes most of the 

 useless wood after the fruit has been gathered. At the 

 time of disbudding I recommended leaving growths on 

 the top side of the wood only in order to facilitate prun- 

 ing. Where this is practiced the old wood on the un- 

 derneath side is cut away and the new drawn down a 

 little to take its place. This will never leave any very 

 large spaces to be filled up as is the case when the 

 growths are left on both sides, for when a piece of old 

 wood is taken out there is sure to be a V shaped space 

 which requires .some growths to be drawn up and others 

 to be drawn down to fill it in. Prune all trees before a 

 tie has been cut so that the position of all the wood can 

 be seen and the right space allotted to those which are to 

 be left. It is a mistake to have a center to a fan-trained 

 tree as the center ought to be left open thus providing 

 space for the new wood to grow. Do not be afraid of dis- 

 carding old wood ; the summer pruning will not have re- 

 moved all of it and an overcrowded tree will never be 

 satisfactory. Let each piece of wood have a space of 

 three to four inches. 



Protect Strawberries 



Strawberries will have been standing in their sum- 

 mer quarters so long as no severe weather was in sight, 

 but the recent cold wave makes it necessary to protect 

 them from the frosts or the pots will be broken with 

 the expansion of the soil. A deep frame makes an ideal 

 place to plunge them as they are away from the glass 

 and the frost cannot get at them so easily. Use leaves 

 that are dry and pack them around the pots tightly, 

 placing the pots close together. See that an extra large 

 label is placed in the right position so that the varieties 



are easily distinguished later on. Do not coddle the 

 plants in any way. Probably the sash will be enough 

 protection for a while and later on when it is necessary 

 to add other protection do not leave it on when the 

 weatlier is mild. A friend of mine tells me better fruit 

 is obtained by not allowing tlie soil to become frozen 

 at all as it injures the roots. Whether this is a fact or 

 not I cannot say but I hand it on to the readers to try it 

 out. Usually we have not eared about the soil freezing 

 a little so long as it was not sullioient to break the pots. 



Late Grapes— Hanging: 



Ripe grapes will be hanging in the late vinery now 

 and may be allowed to remain there until the year end. 

 Keep the house dry and airy through the clear weather 

 with a night temperature of about 45 degrees, which, 

 however, should not be forced to a degree. During any 

 dull or wet weather keep at least one of the heating pipes 

 warm and in severe weather have all the pipes warm — 

 not hot — and should the temperature be a few degrees 

 low when the pipes are so, do not trouble; it is better 

 to have it so, as hot fire heat will shrivel berries quicker 

 than anything else. As the bunches are cut remove a 

 few from each vine which will have the same effect as 

 taking a load off. It will mean using some of the latest 

 varieties before the earlier ones are finished but if, say. 

 two are cut from each one first it will help some. Such 

 varieties as Lady Hutt, Gros Colman, Gros Guillaunic 

 (Barbarossa) and Black Alicante should keep well up 

 to Christmas. 



Vine Eyes for Propagating 



If it is intended to propagate any vines next spring 

 select some of the best laterals at the time of pruning 

 of the varieties that are needed and have them correctly 

 labeled and heeled in. Underneath a bench in a cool 

 house will suit them, but if there is any danger of its 

 getting warm before they are wanted put them outsidi- 

 or in a cold frame and protect them. 



Setting Tomatoes 



At times during the winter months trouble is experi- 

 enced in setting tomatoes. This can usually be traced 

 to excessive moisture in the house or lack of air. Unless 

 it is verj' cold or windy never liavc the hou.se closed 

 up tightly; that crack of air works wonders. When 

 watering has to be done do it as soon as the house gets 

 nicely up to the day temperature and when possible 

 select a fine clear day to do it. With the right atmos- 

 phere and temperature all that should be necessary is to 

 give the plants a sharp shake at noon to distribute the 

 pollen. Real bad cases can have the flowers fertilized 

 with a piece of fur. 



