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HORTICULTURE 



November 29, 1913 



FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CONDUCTED BY 



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Queelions fcy •nr readers In line with any of the topics presented on this page will be oordlallj received and promptly •■•WM** 

 ky Mr. Penson. Such communications should Invariably be addressed to the office of HORTICDLTURB. 



Statt Early Vinery 



As the first of December approaches our thoughts are 

 turned to the starting of the fruit houses that are to 

 furnish the early crops. The fruit growers' year seems 

 to start from December 1st, rather from January 1st 

 for there are several houses that can be put into motion 

 about that time followed by the others at regular inter- 

 vals if a succession of early fruit is required. Before 

 starting any it is best to consider when the ripe fruit 

 is needed and where there is any number of houses to be 

 grown make up a list giving the date for starting each 

 one. Establishments that are not growing any pot- 

 vines will rely on the early vinery for the first grapes, 

 which can be started on December 1st. See that all 

 cleaning has been thoroughly done also that the border 

 has been overhauled. Probably the border has been 

 kept on the dry side during the last few weeks in which 

 case give it some water, but do not water at this time if 

 the border does no require it. There seems to be an 

 idea prevalent that the border must be thoroughly 

 soaked with water at the time the vines are started into 

 growth; this is a mistake. Pot vines will be sure to dry 

 out once in a while during the dormant season and for 

 this reason any that are not started should be looked over 

 occasionally and all should be watered when they are 

 started. To ensure an even break the vines should be 

 bent over in a way that the rush of sap to the apex is 

 retarded and all the buds get an even share, which will 

 mean an even break. Young vines will need tying 

 down to get the bend on to them ; older ones will bend 

 of their own weight if the string that supports them is 

 put in the right place. Syringe the vnes with tepid 

 water twice daily and keep the hou.se moist, which, with 

 the higher temperature will start the sap to flow. A night 

 temperature of 45 degrees, advancing from that to 50 

 by day during cloudy weather will suit them for awhile. 

 .\llow the house to go up to 60 degrees with sun heat. 

 VeiT little air will be needed for quite a while but a 

 crack should be got on daily for an hour at the least. 

 Close down early (soon after noon hour), when the 

 second syringing should bo given. 



Early Peach House 



What has been said of the early vinery applies to the 

 early peach house in most points. Pot trees should be 

 started first as they respond to treatment easier than 

 the trees in the borders. Should the two be started to- 

 gether the trees in the pots should have ripe fruit ten 

 days earlier than those in the borders. Keep a night 

 temperature of 40 to 45 degrees with the usual advance 



by day. We find Duke of York peach and Cardinal 

 nectarine the earliest as well as being among the most 

 reliable in their own sections. Have all the trees cor- 

 rectly tied to the trellis before starting the house. 



Strawberries 



With the starting of the early vinery and the early 

 peach house a batch of strawberries can also be got on 

 the move. These early houses are usually furnished 

 with shelves to accommodate strawberries and no better 

 place can be found for them. Here is where the best 

 berries are produced both for size and flavor. They are 

 near the glass, at all times getting the maximum 

 amount of sun and generally being placed near the ven- 

 tilators they get more air than when being grown on the 

 benches. If these shelves are filled up at the time the 

 house is started the temperature will suit them until 

 the berries are ripe. Where they have to be shifted 

 around occasionally to get the right temperature it 

 means a lot of work and does the plants no good ; in fact 

 it is detrimental to the berries after they get large 

 and soft enough to feel a bruise. Tx)ok the plants over 

 before they are brought into the house, removing any 

 dead or yellow leaves; also have the pots washed. Let 

 them stay a few days until the soil has time to dry out 

 a little, when each pot should be rammed to fasten 

 the soil again which no doubt has been loosened by 

 frosts or rains. Be sure the soil is on the dry side be- 

 fore attempting to ram it. 



Sow More Melons 



The first of December is a red letter day in the melon- 

 growing section as well as the hard-wooded section. 

 Fruit that is ripened from the new year up to the middle 

 of April cannot be relied upon to be always of first- 

 class flavor; the weather will have a big say in it. Dur- 

 ing the real c<ild days it is impossible to get much air on 

 to the ripening fruit. Even suppose it were possible by 

 having an excessive number of pipes in the house, that 

 very cold air on the fruit would not be the same benefit 

 to it that it would be were it naturally warm. Seeds 

 sown now will produce ripe fruit about the middle of 

 April and can lie relied on to be of good flavor as the 

 better weather is increasing on them as they develop. 

 Stick to the winter varieties for this sowing; Hero of 

 Lockinge and His Eminence are the two best. Sow the 

 seeds singly in three-inch pots that have been well 

 drained and washed clean. If the soil is put in dirty 

 pots a difficulty will be experienced when the time comes 

 to turn ihem out. Do not press the soil down at all, 

 but leave it to settle with the watering. 



BOOM YOUR BUSINESS 



by advtrtiaing youi goodM Injbe 



Horticulture 



Publicity among the kind of readers reached 

 by this paper is THE SORT OF PUBLI- 

 CITY THAT PAYS. 



