For February, 1920 



61 



and intended for specimen bedding stock should be 

 kept growing freely. Give these plants a shift into a 

 size larger pots before they become root bound. Any 

 pinching or disbudding necessary to proper development 

 should have rigid attention from now on as growth be- 

 comes more active every day. These and several other 

 forms of specimen plants fit many schemes of adorn- 

 ment, relieve monotony, and are at once objects of beauty 

 and charm. 



Inspect fruit and vegetables in storage at regular in- 

 tervals. Decaying sjijecimens should be removed to pre- 

 vent contamination, and admit ventilation to the cellar 

 or storehouse when weather permits. 



Asparagus, seakale and chicory force readily now. 

 Maintain a succession of these excellent vegetables by 

 replenishing worn out beds with new plantations and 

 treat as advised in previous notes. Prune outdoor grape 

 vines and bush fruits this month and gather up all trim- 

 mings as soon as the job is done. 



Look over the orchard and shrubbery for traces of 

 San Jose scale, which is probably the most injurious of 

 all insect pests ; don't delay the spraying of infested 

 ■specimens a day longer than is absolulelv necessary. 

 Cuttings of desirable evergreens may now be rooted in 

 sand over mild bottom heat. They root readilv. take up 

 'ittle room, and are alwavs interesting. 



The Dracaenas 



T. Sheward 



The Dra-cacnas are some of the most useful orna- 

 mental foliage plants for greenhouse decoration. All 

 like a warm, moist atmosphere. D. liidivisa is the best 

 known of the species, being much used as centerpieces 

 for hanging baskets and vases. D. Iiidiz'isa is a native 

 of New Zealand, D. Goldcana from tropical Africa. A 

 compost for potting the Dracaenas would be one-third 

 leaf-soil or peat and plain loam. Propagation is by layer- 

 ing in moss or cuttings, seed and root cuttings. Fig. 1 

 shows the stem of a Dracaena covered with cocoanut fiber 

 in the propagating house and young shoots starting from 

 the joints. These are cut away (Fig. 2) and inserted 

 in sand (Fig. 3), where they will soon root and can be 

 potted into larger pots. All that is necessary to cause 

 the old cane to break into growth when in fiber is heavy 

 syringing every day. The old stems can be cut up, as 

 shown at Fig. 8, if desired and covered with fiber (or 



moss) till the eyes break into leaf (Fig. 8i. P>y cutting 

 up the thick roots (Fig. 7) into pieces one inch long, and 

 forming root-cuttings which should be started in fiber 

 small plants ( Fig. 9 ) are quickly formed. Large pieces 

 can be rooted (the whole top of very leggj- specimens) 

 by layering. !NIake two cuts as shown at Fig. 5 and in- 

 sert a piece of wood ( Fig. 4) under the cuts ( "A" Fig. 

 5 ) to keep them open till rooted. Tie sphagnum moss 

 around the cut and keep moist till roots form (Fig. 6), 

 when the whole piece can be cut awa\- and jx)tted C'B"' 

 Fig. 6). A layering pot filled with sphagnum moss could 

 be used both ways with equal success. Cuttings will 

 break from the old stem (Fig. 10) and may l)e cut away 

 and rooted in the sharp sand in the well arranged propa- 

 gating house, ^^'here seeds are used (D. Indh-isa) a box, 

 filled with sandy peat and covered with a sheet of glass, 

 is used. 





-J OIEFFENBACHIA 



<&% 

 I ROOT CUTTINGS 



5>iEW»RD. 



