546 



GARDENERS' CHRONICLE 



Suggestions On Planting Roses 



HENRY J. MOORE 



THERE are many factors which are essential to suc- 

 cess in the culture of Roses, but few which have 

 a greater bearing upon success than proper plant- 

 ing. The planting of Roses is not a difficult operation, 

 any intelligent person may perform it, and if a little study 

 is made of the conditions under which the planting may 

 most favorably be done, success will generally be assured. 



The Soil. — The best soil for Roses is a well drained 

 clay loam, and to receive them should properly have been 

 prepared last Fall. If it were not, it should be lightly 

 manured with well rotted cow manure, and be dug as soon 

 as dry enough in Spring. Over-manuring may be dis- 

 astrous to the Roses. No attempt should be made to 

 plant for some time after the beds are dug, unless at th"^ 

 time the soil is warm and friable. Soils wdiich are too 

 light, such as sandy loams, may be rendered satisfactory 

 by the addition of fifty per cent of heavy clay loam. 



Preparing the Roses. — Sometimes Roses are not in a 

 good healthy state when received. If the bark has a 

 shrunken appearance, bury the plants completely in the 

 garden, or in boxes of moist sand or soil for four or five 

 days in a cool place. Plants which after this treatment 

 still appear shrivelled may be worthless. Assuming, how- 

 ever, that the plants are healthy, the next step will be to 

 prepare them for planting in the following way : 



Remove all Ijroken roots with a slanting upward cut 

 by means of a keen knife, and shorten any very long ones 

 to an average length, so that the plant has a nicely bal- 

 anced root system. The aerial growth of the plants may 

 at this time be pruned, or the operation be deferred until 

 the planting is completed. 



Di.£:ging the Holes. — Dig the holes to receive the Roses 

 with a spade (not with a shovel). Make them wide 

 enough to allow the roots to radiate from the stock with- 

 out bending, and deep enough to allow the plants to be 

 set therein, so that the point of union of stock and scion 

 ("bud graft) may be covered with two inches of soil. 

 Break the soil finely in the bottom of each hole, and plant 

 at once. 



Planting. — When about to plant, immerse the roots of 

 all plants which appear dry for a few minutes in water. 

 Next, seek the aid of a person to hold the Roses in posi- 

 tion when the roots are placed in the holes; with the 

 hand spread out the roots, practically at the level at which 

 they spring from the stock, allowing them to incline only 

 slightly. With the disengaged hand, fill finely broken soil 

 between and under the roots until thev are all covered, 

 after which gently move the plant upward and downward 

 carefully without materially disturbing the position of 

 the roots. This will cause the soil to pack lightly around 

 and between the roots. With the spade, fill the soil level 

 with the normal ground line, then tramp it gently but 

 firmly around the plants without in any way bruising the 

 liark of scion or stock. If the weather is warm, or the 

 soil is dry, water the plants at this stage, soaking the soil 

 thoroughly, and in an hour or so finish the operation by 

 filling in more soil to cover the "bud graft" about two 

 inches. The last two weeks of April and the first week 

 of May in normal seasons is the proper time to plant 

 Roses in the Northern States and Southern Canada. The 

 hybrid perpetuals should be planted two and one-half 

 feet apart, and the hybrid teas one and one-half to two 

 feet apart. 



Finishing the Work. — With a steel rake with sharp 

 teeth, rake the surface of the bed, break all clods, remove 

 all debris, such as stones and prunings, and finally edge 

 the beds neatly with the edging knife or spade, using a 

 garden line during the operation, so that the edges will 

 be kept uniform and the beds of tiie desired shape. 



Xote. — Generallv speaking, the hybrid perpetual Roses 

 do better than the hvbrid Teas in localities wdiere the 

 temperature falls twelve degrees or more below zero. 

 Where, however, lower temperatures than this are not ex- 

 perienced, the hybrid Teas are satisfactorily hardy, and in 

 many ways more desirable. Both kinds may as success- 

 fully be planted in November as in April, where the 

 temperature does not fall below^ the forementioned mark, 

 though this is not generallv known. 



Tile Camellia 



GEORGE F. STEWART 



AFTER a lapse of many years, the genus Camellia 

 apparently is coming into more general use as a 

 \Vinter flowering plant. A well grown, nicely 

 shaped plant will always attract attention because of its 

 ample glossy evergreen leaves, but when loaded with 

 flowers, as some of the varieties are, they are truly a 

 gorgeous sight. They have been known to cultivators of 

 plants for many years, and we have had some plants on 

 this place for nearly one hundred years. 



Camellias, as a rule, are not difficult to root from cut- 

 tings, although they are much slower than many plants 

 in forming their roots. Some of the weaker growing 

 varieties are better if grafted on the strong rooting kinds. 

 After they have completed their young growth, is the best 

 time to take cuttings, which is generally in the month of 

 August. A propagating bed with a brisk bottom heat 

 and cool top will root them most quicklv. 



Potting should be attemled to as soon as the roots are 

 formed. Camellias will grow in either peat or loam. 



In the f(jrnier they will grow more freely but the}- will 

 flower better when grown in a good turfy loam. Care 

 should be taken that no lime gets into the soil, as I have 

 known a good plant to be ruined by it. Add a good 

 proportion of sand to the soil to insure porosity ; also a 

 little charcoal which will keep the compost sweet. The 

 potting material should be broken up by hand, in lumps 

 as large as can be conveniently packed around the ball. 

 Firm potting is the order for Camellias. After they 

 reach a six-inch pot, every two years will be often enough 

 to disturb the roots for re-potting. Plants in larger re- 

 ceptacles may go several years without being shifted. 



I find that a little feeding with cow manure water, 

 when they are making their yearly growth, is beneficial. 

 Clay's is the only safe fertilizer to use as a change. I 

 am perfectly aware that a dift'erence of opinion exists 

 about feeding them with stimulants, Inil in my experience, 

 it is both safe and helpful when the plants are well rooted, 

 until thev set their flowering buds. 



