For July. 1921 



643 



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I Work for the Month in the Garden I 



I SAMUEL GOLDING I 



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NOW that July is here and the rush of Spring planting 

 is over, with the vegetable garden yielding a bounte- 

 ous and varied supply of crops for the table each 

 day, by no means does it infer that we can now relax 

 our efforts and allow the plants to grow in their own 

 way. The grower will always find ample employment in 

 keeping up plant successions and sowings for some time 

 to come ; the quick removal of spent crops, and replant- 

 ing for Winter supplies without loss of time; and above 

 all the maintenance of a good tilth by frequent cultiva- 

 tion, and giving an abundance of water to maintain the 

 growth of plants during dry spells. 



The month of Jime proved very trying to the grower. 

 The hot sun during the days with cold nights, combined 

 with drying winds, not only retarded the growth of the 

 seedlings and newly planted stock but brought quite a 

 host of evils in its train. It was most conducive to attacks 

 of all kinds of pests, both insect and fungoid, and red 

 spider and aphis have flourished amazingly on many 

 tender subjects, making it imperative to spray and irrigate 

 to save the crops. 



Make the last sowing of sweet corn around the middle 

 of the month, using some early variety. Golden Bantam 

 is hard to surpass for planting at this time. Continue 

 to make sowings of string beans, carrots, beets, endive, 

 and also rutabagas. Sow parsley for Winter supplies 

 if possible in a frame where it will winter, to save the 

 transplanting later on. 



Keep an eye on the asparagus bed, otherwise much 

 damage will be caused by the larvje of the asparagus 

 beetle. Spray with arsenate of lead when the plants are 

 damp, or in the early morning when the dew is still on 

 them. 



Plant out new strawberry plantations, and give the 

 young plants every encouragement during the growing 

 season. Cut off all surpjus runners from the old plants 

 that are intended to fruit another season : trim the plants 

 and fork in some fertilizer. 



Spray red currant trees when the fruit has been picked. 

 If they have made a dense growth, remove some of the 

 superfluous wood by judicious thinning so that the re- 

 maining wood has ample opportunity to ripen thoroughly. 

 The same treatment applies to the gooseberry. As soon 

 as the raspberries and blackberries have finished fruiting, 

 cut out the old fruiting wood and thin out the young 

 canes to the desired number. Tie up loosely to give 

 them all light and air which helps to ri{x;n the wood 

 properly and aids them to withstand the severe Winters. 

 Keep the growths of blackberries tied during the 

 Summer. 



Work in the flower garden at this time would seem 

 mainly to consist of irrigating, staking and spraying for 

 the various pests which attack the plants and trees. But 

 each day brings its work, and if the Fall garden is to be 

 a success there can be no let up in the routine that must 

 be accomplished. Seed pods must be picked oft' continu- 

 ous bloominpf plants such as the Gaillardias, Pyre- 

 thrums, and it is good practice to keep seed pods picked 

 from all plants as they tend to waste tlie strength of the 

 parent plant to no purpose, and all its reserve strength 

 should be conserved to build up its constitution for the 

 next blooming period. 



Dahlias are growing apace, and should be well supplied 

 with moisture. Watch closely for red spider and aphis, 

 and spray with Aphine ; keep the growths tied frequently, 

 otherwise they may suffer severely during heavy storms. 



There is still time to sow such annuals as candytuft, 

 Phlox driDiimondii or other quick maturing plants for 

 late cut flowers. Nenicsia strumosa is a very useful 

 plant to grow, if sown during this month and flowered in 

 a cold frame during the Fall, and it will continue to bloom 

 over a long period. Pansies, Myosotis, and double 

 daisies can be sown for bedding next Spring. Trans- 

 plant the biennials when large enough to handle. Allow 

 Canterbury Bells and foxgloves plenty of room to de- 

 velop so that they can be lifted with a good ball in the 

 Fall. 



As soon as the rambler roses pass out of bloom cut out 

 much of the old wood, and all old flower stems ; tie up 

 the new growths and allow enough space for develop- 

 ment ; remove weak and useless shoots as they tend to 

 retard and sap the vigor of those left to furnish next 

 year's flowering wood. Some varieties are very suscept- 

 ible to mildew, of which the old Crimson Rambler is 

 notably so. If this makes its appearance, spray with 

 Fungine or Melrosine. Shorten back the growths of Tea 

 and Hybrid Teas and give them a dressing of sheep or 

 blood manure. Go over them with the cultivator and 

 water the fertilizer in well. They should have generous 

 treatment to insure good blooms toward the Fall. Spray 

 them occasionally to prevent mildew. 



The past few weeks have been very trying for newly 

 planted trees and shrubs. Continue to give them an abun- 

 dance of water at the roots, and a spraying from the 

 hose will be beneficial. Should the weather be dry this 

 helps them to recuperate after hot sunny days. 



Plantations of azaleas and rhododendrons must not be 

 allowed to suffer from drought. These and evergreen 

 hedges can be sprayed with Plant Oil to prevent or 

 destroy red spider which is a deadly enemy if allowed 

 to gain a foothold and make a headway. 



Shear privet and barberry hedges as they need it. 

 When these are well kept and tidy they add much to the 

 general appearance of the garden. 



Trained fruit trees and dwarfs will now need care. 

 The stopping or pinching is generally referred to as Sum- 

 mer priming. This operation consists of pinching the 

 growths back to five or six leaves according to the vigor 

 of the \-ariety, but judgment must be exercised when 

 doing this. If done too soon, it may have the result 

 that most of the remaining buds will push into active 

 growth, thereby defeating the end which Summer pmn- 

 ing aims to attain. And, moreover, it can be deferred 

 too long. If the tree has made a thick or luxuriant 

 growth the sudden exposure of the fruit to the strong 

 sun may result in a serious check to its growth, but when 

 done when the leaves are all fully developed, it does 

 much to help ripen the wood and form good fruit buds. 

 If left undone the long shoots appropriate the sap to no 

 good purpose. When these trees are most vigorous, 

 making strong growths and producing no fruit, it is 

 possible that if in the Fall they are root pruned, this will 

 be the proper remedy. It checks overgrowth and 

 increases the fruitfulness of the trees. 



