for April, 1920 



135 



Hardy Roses for the Garden 



ALEX. CUMMINGS, Jr. 



[Continued from March Nimtber.) 



The first important detail in the outside culture of the 

 rose begins in the location of the rose garden. Choose, 

 if possible, a location that is somewhat sheltered from 

 sweeping winds, but not too enclosed to prevent a free 

 atmospheric circulation. A warm, sunny position that 

 will receive the benefit of the morning sun and is shel- 

 tered somewhat during the afternoon is the ideal loca- 

 tion, yet the rose prefers the full sweep of the elements 

 to the shadows of overhanging trees or nearby buildings. 



The rose is not as fastidious in its preference of soils 

 as we are frequently informed. It will give excellent 

 results in any good garden soil that is well drained ; that 

 is, soil that is free from standing water. Making a rose 

 bed in a wet situation, no matter how well drained the 

 bed in itself is, can never be a complete success, for no 

 amount of drainage material can amount to little more, 

 in effect, than a catch basin or receptacle for the sur- 

 rounding water to drain into. The land surrounding the 

 bed must be equally well drained. 



In preparing the bed, the soil should be excavated to a 

 depth of eighteen inches or two feet, and refilled with 

 soil, turf, and barn-yard manure in equal quantities, with 

 the addition of a generous sprinkling of coarse bone meal. 



The success of the rose bed depends much upon the 

 quality of the plants, to begin with. It is generally con- 

 ceded that the budded, two-year-old rose is the best for 

 Eastern .\merica. Some more experienced growers pre- 

 fer to plant dormant stock, while others prefer the estab- 

 lished pot plants that are obtained in growth for May 

 planting. Either type is undoubtedly good, the advan- 

 tage in purchasing plants that are started in pots being 

 in the fact that there is less possibility of loss in planting. 

 Again, it is not always possible to get the ground in 

 shape before it is too late to successfully plant dormant 

 stock in the limited time available. It is important that 

 the soil be in good working condition, not dry, and yet 

 not so wet as to be disagreeable to work with. The 

 plants, if dormant, should be set about two inches below 

 the part where the root and the top unite, or a little 

 lower than previously planted. If the plants are frjm 

 pots, the ball of earth surrounding the roots should be 

 set two or three inches below the surface level. Part of 

 the soil, only, should be replaced, wcli firmed and the 

 plant thoroughy watered. When the water is absorbed 

 the remaining soil can be filled in, firmed, and the bed 

 raked level. 



The subsequent cultivation and care required merely 

 provides a means of relaxation to the rosarian. The soi' 

 should be cultivated lightly at frequent intervals and the 

 plants watered when necessary. -\ thorough watering 

 is far more beneficial than frequent sprinklings. An oc- 

 casional application of liquid manure is decidedly bene- 

 ficial, particularly if applied in a weak solution once or 

 twice a week until the buds commence to show color, 

 when stimulants of any description should be withheld. 

 In early July, a mulch of any strawy material can be ap- 

 plied to conserve moisture and protect the roots during 

 the heat of Mid-Summer. 



The majority of our garden roses will come through 

 the average Winter without much protection, if their loca- 

 tion is somewhat sheltered, but they are all benefited by 

 a generous Winter covering. A heavy coat of well-dried 

 leaves will afford ample protection to the more hardy 

 roses, but the Hybrid Tea. the Tea, and other less hardv 



types require a more careful protection. We find soil to 

 be the best material for protecting tender roses. Where 

 the roses are not too closely planted, the soil immediately 

 surrounding each plant can be drawn up on it to a height 

 of nine to twelve inches. Where the plants are closely 

 placed, the soil should be drawn in from the compost 

 heap or garden. The object in covering roses is not to 

 keep the frost out so much as to keep it in the ground ; 

 winter killing is caused more by changeable weather, the 

 alternate freezing and thawing doing more damage than 

 any amount of severe freezing. When the protecting 

 soil is thoroughly frozen, a covering of leaves or litter 

 will keep the plants in good condition until Spring. 



The majority of climbing roses are hardy under ordi- 

 nary conditions, but there are occasions when some pro- 

 tection is desirable. In this event, the growths must be 

 removed from their support and bent not too abruptly to 

 the ground and covered, as far as possible, with soil. 

 Heavy caned plants cannot be altogether protected in 

 this way, without the risk of fracturing the more rigid 

 growths, but they can be bent far enough to permit cov- 

 ering at least two-thirds of the younger wood, and this, 

 of course, is where the protection is required the most. 

 The exposed or arched part can be covered with rye 

 straw and this capped with paper heavy enough to shed 

 the rain. 



The additional trouble involved in affording Winter 

 protection is well repaid in the plump and healthy condi- 

 tion of the wood when uncovered. 



The most important detail in hardy rose culture — that 

 of pruning — is one that is apt to puzzle the grower not 

 thoroughly familiar with the various types and their 

 habits. The quality and quantity of flowers depend to a 

 great extent on this operation and to the grower not 

 sure of his subject, the best advice, perhaps, would be to 

 let it remain unpruned. 



Climbing roses require very little pruning, the removal 

 of the old battle-scarred and dead wood, or any that may 

 appear superfluous, and trimming back the ends of any 

 remaining wood that seems out of balance. This applies 

 to all Ramblers, Wichurianas, Pillar Roses and the hybrid 

 climbing varieties, such as Paul's, Carmine Pillar, Climb- 

 ing Frau K. Druschki, and roses of that typ>e. 



The Plybrid Perpetual or Remontant roses with a few 

 heavy growing exceptions, are benefited by the removal 

 of all weak or dead wood, and pruning the remaining 

 growths back to from three to six eyes, the upper re- 

 maining bud should point outwards whenever possible, 

 the purpose of this being to keep the new growth away 

 from the center of the plant. 



The pruner's judgment should always be governed by 

 the growth of the plant. If it is heavy and erect in habit, 

 as we find it in the varieties Clio. Margaret Dickson or 

 (iloire Lyonnaise, the pruning should be less severe. 

 Less vigorous kinds of a more branchy lateral growth, 

 Louis Van Houtte, Alfred Colomb, or Fisher Holmes, 

 for instance, should be cut back hard, one or two eyes 

 being sufficient in the lighter wood and not more than 

 four in the heavier wood. 



Hybrid Tea and Tea roses require approximately the 

 same treatment. The strong growing kinds can be left 

 a trifle longer, while the weak varieties should be cut 

 practically to the ground to give the best results. 



The Dwarf Polyantha and Baby Ramblers merely re- 

 quire a thinning out of the weak or congested center 

 growths, slightlv heading the remaining wood back. 



