154 



GARDENERS' CHRONICLE 



with protoplasm. Roots do not grow throughout their entire 

 length, but only b}' the addition of new cells at their extremities ; 

 that is of course excepting that growth in size which takes place 

 as the roots increase in age. As the extremity of a root ad- 

 vances through the soil new root-hairs are formed in front of 

 the older ones, while those farthest back are continually dying 

 off, so that only a comparatively short portion of the rootlet 

 bears hairs at any one time, and only the youngest roots are 

 active in the work of sustaining the plant's life. The part of 

 roots from which the root-hairs have perished absorb verj- little 

 water and arc mainly useful in giving strength to the plant and 

 acting as conduits for the transmission of fluids. The active part 

 of any rootlet in supplying nourishment is therefore short, and 

 it follows that the greater the number of living young roots cov- 

 ered with hairs the greater the amount of food and water a 

 plant will receive. Root-hairs act in a dual capacity ; not only 

 do they absorb water and food, but they excrete waste products 

 in the form of acids, principally carbonic, and these acids dis- 

 solve mineral matters in the soil, which, forming a solution with 

 water, are taken up and used as food. 



In examining roots we must not confuse rootlets which are as 

 fine as hairs, with the root-hairs growing from these rootlets ; 

 the hairs cannot always be seen with the naked eye. Any one 

 who has noticed the delicate and minute character of rootlets 

 and their hairs will readily understand the necessity for careful 

 handling during the operation of transplanting, and it will be 

 equally plain why a finely pulverized soil is necessary for the 

 best results, and why there is a total absence of active rootlets in 

 the hard clods of badly cultivated ground. The better the soil, 

 both mechanically and chemically, the greater will be the number 

 of fine feeding-roots. 



The tip of each rootlet is protected in its passage through the 

 soil by a thimble-like covering known as the root-cap, which in 

 some cases maj' be readily seen without the aid of a magnifying 

 glass. The root-tip in advancing through the soil, which it does 

 by the force of new cells being continually formed behind it, 

 does not move in a straight line, but has a partially rotary and 

 oscillating motion which enables it to take advantage of open- 

 ings between the soil particles. 



The vast importance to the plant of active roots cannot be 

 overestimated, and want of success in transplanting is invariably 

 due to something which has had an adverse effect upon them. 

 The delicate nature of the rootlets and their hairs renders it 

 scarcely possible to avoid damaging some of them, even with 

 the greatest care, but when this care is conspicuous by its ab- 

 sence, great destruction ensues. 



Whiie the points stated as being connected with transplanting 

 apply equally to all classes of plants, both small and large, there 

 is naturally some degree of difference in their application, which 

 so far has been more particularly to trees and shrubs. In con- 

 nection with small, annual plants, both flowers and vegetables, 

 there are a few points worth further consideration. 



Points to Consider in Transpl.\nting Annuals 

 Things of a perennial nature, as trees and shrubs, will, if they 

 live, in time recover from the shock of transplanting, and. while 

 -our efforts should be to make that time as short as possible, no 

 permanent loss will occur should the period be somewhat ex- 

 tended. With annual plants the case is different, for time lost 

 during recovery from the operation cannot be regained, and 

 further, any considerable check, especially in the case of some 

 vegetables will render them useless for the purpose desired. In 

 some things a check as the result of transplanting has a more 

 harmful effect than in others ; or. to put it in another form, 

 some species, such as cabbage, for example, will recover sooner 

 from the shock of transplanting and afterwards grow to more or 

 less perfection than others, like cauliflowers and celery, which 

 are invariably rendered useless by any material check in growth. 

 It must be remembered that the "hearts" of cabbage, lettuce, 

 etc., and the large, white "heads" of cauliflower are artificial 

 productions, that is, their wild ancestors do not produce hearts, 

 etc.. and what they produce in these respects to-day is the result 

 of many generations of cultivation and selection. While under 

 proper conditions the .garden types artificially evolved in re- 

 sponse to changed conditions of life are hereditary, yet under 

 other conditions they soon revert to their ori.ginal forms, or at 

 least prematurely run to seed. The original wild cabbage was in 

 form verj' similar to the well-known weed, charlock, and like all 

 other annual and biennial plants, its only object in life was to 

 produce seed for the reproduction of its species. After this was 

 accomplished, it died. 



If not allowed to produce seed, many annuals under suitable 

 climatic conditions become biennials or even perennials, and 

 among true perennials more or less continuous flowering is ob- 

 tained by the prevention of seed production, although when seed 

 from the first flowers is allowed to form, any further crop of 

 flowers does not usually result. 



The natural tendency therefore of all plants is to produce seed 

 and this tendency' — which in the case of many vegetables is 

 sjnonymous with the non-production of "hearts," etc., is always 

 hastened by any- check to growth by transplanting, drought, badly 

 cultivated and poor soil. Even in those cases where the ultimate 

 useful results, as in the examples of peas and beans, are the 

 production of seed, yet the maximum is not achieved unless 

 considerable growth is made first. When anji;hing occurs in the 

 life of a plant, such as check to its growth, which is liable to 

 give it the idea that immediate death is possible, it will make 

 every effort to reproduce its species by the production of seed 

 at the earliest possible moment. This characteristic of plant life 

 is taken advantage of in the case of fruit production by the use 

 of girdling and root pruning to check growth. 



As in the case of vegetable plants the production of seed is 

 the last thing desired, we have therefore to obtain the best re- 

 sults, to handle them in such a way as to avoid check from any 

 cause, and especiallj- to render the shock of transplanting as 

 nearly absent as possible. 



Growing Plants for Transplanting 



In growing plants for transplanting the seed-bed should be in 

 such a state of richness and lightness that root growth will be 

 encouraged to the maximum extent. The latter is still further 

 induced and the plants are also rendered more stocky, by trans- 

 planting — at this stage known as "pricking out" — three inches 

 apart as soon as the seedlings have formed their second leaves. 

 In doing this it is important, as in all other cases, not to puU 

 them up, but to lift them with a trowel or piece of flatwood ; 

 pulling, even when the soil is light and moist, always destroys 

 more or less of the rootlets and their hairs. It is a good plan 

 to thoroughly water seedlings the day before transplanting, as 

 this reduces possibilities of root injury as well as securing the 

 ma.ximum water-content of the plant. Future handling is greatly 

 facilitated if this "pricking off" is done into flats, as then the 

 plants can be taken to the place of final planting out without any 

 disturbance. 



Another plan is to use pots for the purpose and those made of 

 paper are quite suitable ; also by their means we can transplant 

 things like melons, cucumbers and corn, which cannot with suc- 

 cessful results be transplanted in the ordinarj' way from seed 

 beds. With these latter the seed must be planted in the pots in 

 which the plants are to grow previously to being set out in their 

 permanent position. To save room two inch pots are some- 

 times used for things like cabbage and annual flowers, but three- 

 inch ones are better, especially in the case of plants which must 

 have the seeds sown in the pots. 



Obviously cold frames, hot beds, or a greenhouse are neces- 

 sary for the production of early seedlings, and the object to be 

 aimed at is not to have the plants too forward, but in such a 

 stage of growth that they will not become stunted for want of 

 room before the conditions outside are suitable for placing them 

 in their permanent position. 



As above mentioned, it is important that the roots should be 

 thoroughly moistened before transplanting, and in the case of 

 pots, if there is any doubt about it. they can be set in a pan of 

 water for a few minutes so as to be sure the ball is thoroughly 

 soaked. Properly carried out. plants grown in pots receive no 

 check and do not know they have been transplanted, and in the 

 case of many things two or three weeks in time are gained over 

 those from seeds sown outside. 



Principal Points to Observe 



The main points to be observed in transplanting are : To give 

 the plant such treatment before lifting as to place it in the best 

 possible condition for removal. 



To exercise the greatest care over the roots during all stages 

 of the operation, and to see that the new conditions in which 

 the roots are placed are such as to enable them to renew their 

 functions at once, so as to prevent any check to growth. 



Transplanting may result in one of three things; the plant 

 may die ; it may live but make little or no growth ; or it may 

 thrive. Unless the latter is achieved we cannot claim absolute 

 success for the operation. 



Referring again to ornamental things used in gardens for their 

 landscape effects, it almost goes without saying that the beauty 

 of home surroundings as a whole is brought about not only by 

 seeing to it that the happiness and thriftiness of plants is se- 

 cured by successful transplanting but also by continual care year 

 after year. It is also equally obvious that in addition to giving 

 the individual plant conditions and treatment which will enable 

 it to develop fully its intrinsic beauties, it should be so asso- 

 ciated with plants of other species that the enlire picture pro- 

 duced by a combination of different plants should be at all times 

 pleasing, and that flowers will be in evidence from early Spring 

 until late Autumn, to say nothing of brilliant berried effects dur- 

 ing the Winter. 



