lor October, 1920 



235 



Hedges and Their Upkeep 



THE question of hedges is one of far-reaching im- 

 portance, for it claims the consideration of the jiro- 

 prieiors of large and small estates, farms, gardens, 

 parks and woodlands throughout the length and breadth 

 of the country and must be considered from many points 

 of view. Hedges have three main objects — they ensure 

 privacy, protect crops and stock from the encroachment 

 of animals and damage by wind, and are effective lines 

 of demarcation. The two former are, perhaps, the more 

 important — for purely dividing lines can, if desired, be 

 more conveniently made by other means and with greater 

 economy of land. Nevertheless, living hedges are often 

 preferable as lines of demarcation to either wire fences, 

 post and rail fences, or walls. 



It often happens that a hedge is recjuired to serve 

 the three objects at the same time, and in such a 

 case it must be high enough and dense enough to 

 obstruct the vision of the tallest person and break the 

 force of wind : formidable enough to resist the pressure 

 of strong animals and, at the same time, form an effec- 

 tive dividing line without encroaching too much upon 

 the land on either side. For inner dividing lines, how- 

 ever, such as are used for separating one part of a gar- 

 den from another, strength and height are of secondary 

 importance, and there are many shrubs of moderate 

 growth that are infinitely better for the purpose than the 

 plants that are selected for more exacting positions. 



A living hedge is often more ap])ropriate and pleasing 

 than a wall or iron fence, while it is infinitely cheaper in 

 the first place although it may require more constant at- 

 tention in the way of upkeep. On very exposed land it 

 is often expedient to use stone walls for surrounding gar- 

 dens and fields, especially where stone can be quarried 

 near by. In bleak places even the hardiest of hedge plants 

 are difficult to establish, therefore walls, built with or 

 without mortar, are substituted. Such walls are often 

 seen in the Peak District, the Lake District, Scotland 

 and elsewhere. But in ordinary positions there need be 

 little trouble in establishing really good hedges. 



In some parts of the country a modification of wall 

 and hedge is adopted. Banks several feet high composed 

 of stone and earth are built, and on the top a hedge is 

 planted. Readers familiar with Devonshire and Corn- 

 wall must have noted many such combinations. 



For general purposes of protection and privacy hedge 

 plants must he long lived, dense in habit, spiny for prefer- 

 ence, not fastidious as to soil, and be capable of with- 

 standing close cli])ping for many years without injury. 

 The plants suitable for such hedges are limited to com- 

 paratively few species, but for inside hedges, for more 

 or less ornamental work, there is a very wide choice of 

 subjects. They rarely require severe pruning and, in 

 fact, are more licautiful when allowed considerable free- 

 dom. 



The nreparation of the position for a hedge is of con- 

 siderable importance, and greater care should be taken 

 than has been the case in the past, more particularly on 

 farm land, in arranging the dividing line in such a way 

 that the least possible waste of land will be brought about 

 and also that the hedge wmII not endanger the develop- 

 ment of crops in the vicinity. The dividing lines between 

 fields on the same farm are often verv irregular in out- 

 line, tending to waste of ground and difficult working 

 of headlands. When planting new hedges such irregu- 

 larities should be removed and the line straightened. 

 If a curve is necessary, let it be a distinct one. and have 

 done with it, instead of numerous little wiggles. Then 

 the open difch, often left at the foot of a hedge, should 



have consideration. In the past it was usual to open a 

 ditch at the foot of one side of a proposed hedge, placing 

 the soil so obtained on one margin to form a bank, and 

 then planting the hedge on the bank. On very wet land 

 this system had advantages, for the field could be con- 

 veniently drained into the ditch. But such ditches waste 

 a good deal of land and, if well kept, entail a lot of work, 

 or if neglected fail to answer their purpose. It is in- 

 finitely better to drain the land into a closed drain, car- 

 rying the water to a proper outlet wherever possible. 

 In fact, in some agricultural districts farmers are filling 

 in and dispensing with many of these old banks and 

 ditches. A ditch at the foot of a hedge has advantages 

 on dairy land, for it assists in keeping cattle within 

 bounds. Hedges that are allowed to become overgrown 

 prevent the development of crops near by, because they 

 obstruct light and air, and on hav and corn land prevent 

 Cjuick drying. 



The actual preparation of ground for hedges should 

 consist of working a strip of ground 3 feet wide to a 

 depth of 2 feet, breaking up hard subsoil draining when 

 necessary, and the substitution of poor soil with better. 

 The surface soil must be kept to the surface in every 

 case as that from a considerable depth, say, below 12 

 inches or 15 inches, is usually sterile and plants placed 

 in it have difficulty in forming new roots. The substitu- 

 tion of good soil for that of inferior quality is preferable 

 to adding a considerable quantity of manure. But when 

 manure is added it should be so placed that it cannot 

 come in contact with injured roots. Ground prepara- 

 tion should be completed several weeks before the hedge 

 is to be planted in order that there may be no after sink- 

 age of soil. 



With the exception of a few subjects, such as com- 

 mon Holly or Evergreen Oak, planting may be under- 

 taken at almost any time during open weather wiien the 

 soil is dry enough, behveen early October and the middle 

 of ]\Iarch. There are, however, a few evergreens — of 

 which those mentioned are examples — that give better 

 results if planted in May or September. When the soil 

 is heavy or of a clayey nature hedges should not be 

 planted while it is very wet. 



There is no settled size for hedge plants at the time 

 of planting, and examples 10 feet high are sometimes 

 used. It is, however, unwise to select large plants, and, 

 as a rule, it is advisable to limit the height of such ])lants 

 as Yews and Hollies to 4 feet at planting time, whereas 

 such plants as Thorns and Privets are large enough at 

 2 feet. Plants of small or moderate size are usually 

 much more satisfactory in the end than large ones, espe- 

 cially when they are planted in exposed places. It is 

 very imnortant, however, that plants selected for hedges, 

 such as Yews and Hollies, should be well furnished with 

 branches to the ground, for plants that are bare at the 

 bottom are very difficult to im]:)rove when once planted 

 as a hedge. Thorns and Privets can be cut hard back 

 after twelve months in the .ground, if necessary: in fact. 

 Hawthorn usually forms a better hedge wdien cut down 

 to within 6 inches of the ground after it has become well 

 established, than when allowed to grow unchecked. \Mien 

 a hedge can be started with a dense and uniform bottom, 

 a great deal of future w'ork is avoided. \\'hen gaps 

 occur thev should either be filled by planting small ])lants 

 in the gaps, or by pegging branches down. When selec- 

 ting Yews for a hedge it is advisable to choose those 

 with several stems springing from the ground rather 

 than planting with single trunks or stems. 



