jor February, 1^21 



459 



How to Make a Vegetable Garden and Maintain 



Its Production 



JAMES DONALD 



Sl'ATlSriLS show that vegetarianism is becoming 

 more popular every year, therefore vegetables de- 

 serve to be grown more plentifully to meet the in- 

 creasing demand, and as they are one of the necessities of 

 life, are worthy of careful study, plenty of forethought, 

 and the best of care. The three points to be considered 

 in the making of such a garden are : site, soil and water. 



As regards site, the aspect due South or Southeast is 

 always preferable in view of securing more favorably the 

 sunshine of early Spring months and thus making the 

 growing season longer. Level ground is most convenient, 

 although a site possessing undulating slopes, is capable of 

 producing, by proper culture, excellent crops. It is de- 

 sirable to protect the garden from North winds by plan- 

 tations, fences, walls, hedges or anything suitable to fill 

 such requirements. Always avoid as far as possible low- 

 lying places as undrained swamps, from the two-fold fact 

 that colder subsoils generally abound and late Spring 

 frosts prevail, both of which cause injury to early crops 

 and are verv injurious to perennial vegetables wintered 

 therein. 



The next consideration is the soil. A good site may 

 be chosen with poor soil, or vice versa. Of course you can 

 help a great deal to make the soil right, while it would be 

 almost impossible to make the site as Nature herself or 

 the glacier period has solved this problem for us. A col- 

 lection of different soils in the garden would be a good 

 thing to have at command as different crops need dif- 

 ferent soils, but this can seldom be had. The quality of 

 subsoil should be examined, and if it is of a retentive 

 nature, and so prevents the free passage of air and water, 

 this has a marked eft'ect on vegetables in general. Land 

 of this nature should be drained freely and especially in 

 districts where the rainfall is heavy, in order to remove 

 the superabundant moisture that would otherwise collect. 



The third point is water, and not at all the least im- 

 portant. In supplying water to the garden, in whatever 

 system you adopt, the source should be secured from a 

 stream or large open reservoir, exposed to plenty of sun- 

 shine and air. It will therefore be warmer, softer and 

 better suited in every way for plant life, than if olitained 

 direct from a spring or well. 



Having these points settled, the next is the tillage of 

 the soil. The ground should be all trenched to a depth of 

 two and a half to three feet. This is seldom done, but in 

 gardens where this .system has been adopted, the results 

 have been marvellous. A liberal quantity of manure 

 should !)e used and cow manure which has no etjual in 

 this respect, is the best for vegetables. Horse manure 

 is favorable to early crops, as it is sooner available as plant 

 food, although it does not last as long as cow manure. 

 No strict rule can be laid down as to trenching or manur- 

 ing. Good judgment should be used, as light soils are 

 often well drained naturally, but may be able to absorb 

 good manuring, whereas heavy alluvial soils may need 

 trenching, but not a heavy manuring. The garden should 

 be plotted into at least four sections, dividing into roads 

 and paths in proportion to its size for convenience and 

 general appearance. These sections may be utilized as 

 follows : 



1. For all perennial crops as asparagus, artichoke, rhu- 

 barb, strawberries, etc. 



2. Peas, early potatoes to be followed by corn, celery, 

 beans, lettuce, etc. 



3. More tender kinds as tomatoes, egg plants, peppers, 

 melons, martynia, etc. 



4. For all small seeds as onions, carrots, beets, spinach, 

 lettuce, salsify, etc. 



Pole beans, cabbage, sprouts, are often planted on the 

 farm if the garden is too small, and each year the cropping 

 of sections can be changed around, so that no crop will 

 follow itself in the same spot next year. Of course in 

 many cases onions are often grown in the same place for 

 years with no marked deficiency. 



When Spring comes asparagus is generally the first 

 vegetable to appear. Autumn is the best time to prepare 

 a bed for this delicious vegetable, but Spring is the best 

 time to plant it. Trenching three or four feet deep is 

 absolutely essential, mixing good cow manure with the 

 soil. Seeds or plants may be used, the latter being prefer- 

 able because they bring quickest results. Use two-year- 

 old plants and do not cut them much until the third year. 

 They may be planted in beds, or in rows two and a half 

 feet apart and eighteen inches between, leaving six inches 

 for a channel for watering while young, and mav be filled 

 as they grow. Any extra care given will be amply repaid 

 in future years. 



Other perennials as artichoke and rhubarb, the latter 

 may be grown in almost any corner of the garden, give 

 protection in Winter, and a few can be forced early in 

 the Spring by covering with a bottomless barrel sur- 

 rounded with fresh horse manure. Artichoke can be car- 

 ried through the Winter the same as rhubarb with pro- 

 tection, or to save time, sow seeds indoors in December 

 or later and these plants will bear fruit the coming Fall. 



To obtain success with peas, dig a trench one foot deep 

 and fill in four inches with pure cow manure and cover 

 over with six inches of soil. Then sow deeply ; tramp 

 down : cover lightly and leave a channel for water about 

 two inches deep which can be filled in later. Place the 

 brush or wire fencing, the former is the better, on each 

 side of the rows — as in the rush later on this may be 

 neglected — so that the tendrils may get support without 

 delay. Keep up a succession of peas as long as possible, 

 sowing extra early peas first, and filling in with early and 

 late varieties. Adopt this system and you will prolong 

 the season. 



Corn may follow peas in the same groun 1, hut il will 

 grow in almost any soil, providing the land is sweet and 

 exposed to plenty of sun. It is a gross feeder and requires 

 plenty of available plant food and extensive cultivation. 

 Plant in hills three or four feet apart each way. or in lines 

 two feet apart or more according to the variety. Do not 

 push up hills as is often done, but keep the land level and 

 the rain force will be equal all over. Simply feed and hoc 

 until the foliage meets. 



Celerv is often planted alternately with ciirn for partial 

 shade which is a good asset to it. Seeds may be sown 

 indoors in February or March or in frames later, and 

 planted outdoors after the third leaf appears. Harden 

 oft' and plant outdoors in cold frames. Celery loves cool 

 treatment but will not stand frost. Plant about four 

 inches apart so that a ball of roots is easily secured for 

 final planting. In their permanent quarters whether on 



