For October, 1921 



73i 



Work for the Month in the Garden | 



SAMUEL GOLDING | 



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NOW that the month of October is liere, we real- 

 ize that for the inajorit_v of subjects the real 

 growing- season is over. L'ntil this date, we have 

 been immune from killing frosts ; this happy condi- 

 tion may end at any time now. Therefore, we must 

 push on with the harvesting of crops. 



Lift late potatoes, carrots, beets, and store away ; 

 finish earthing up late celery, and choose fine weather 

 for this operation as it is necessary to avoid doing this 

 when the plants are wet, or the soil is in a sticky con- 

 dition. Tie up the plants before earthing, and press 

 the soil firmly around each plant to prevent it from 

 getting into the hearts. 



Protect cauliflowers by tying or breaking the leaves 

 over the center, but if severe frost threatens, lift them 

 and heel in close together in a deep pit or frame. If 

 one fails to have these, a light shed will give the 

 necessary protection. Be prepared to protect lettuce 

 and endive by having some salt hay on hand to cover 

 over them. These can also be lifted and placed lose 

 together in frame or some temporary shelter. 



Clear away all dead and decaying foliage from 

 Brussels sprouts, or other brassicas so they can de- 

 rive all possible benefit from air and sunshine, during 

 the brief season that remains to them. Keep late 

 spinach free from weeds, and encourage its growth in 

 every possible way. 



Lift some chicory roots and store in a cool place, 

 if a constant supply is needed for salads. A few roots 

 may be introduced into a fairly warm cellar, or house 

 where the light is excluded. The mushroom house is 

 the ideal place for forcing this salad to get the perfect 

 blanched leaves that are necessary. A few roots of 

 rhubarb can be lifted and exposed to frosts before 

 being taken inside for forcing. Continue to collect 

 materials for any successional mushroom beds that 

 may be wanted. 



Cut over the asparagus bed as soon as the stems are 

 ripe and give a good dressing of manure. If this is 

 forked in during the late Fall when the conditions are 

 right, it saves valuable time when the Spring rush is 

 here. 



Manure and dig any vacant ground. Time given to 

 deep digging or trenching is well spent. It makes for 

 greater fertility by reason that it helps to create a 

 deeper rooting medium which assists all crops to with- 

 stand drought, in a marked degree, much better than 

 crops sown or planted in land just forked or ploughed 

 over. If done now it will receive the beneficent in- 

 fluence of the Winter's frost upon any subsoil that 

 may be brought to the surface. But one must bear 

 in mind the advice offered in the Spring, that there 

 is always a right time and proper condition when to 

 work the soil. If the condition is wet and easil\- trod- 

 den into a putty-like mass it should be avoided or 

 more harm than good will result. 



As soon as the frost has cut down the plants in 

 the formal flower garden, clear them away at once, 

 taking inside anything that may be wanted for stock. 

 Store away the tubers f)f begonias in dry sand. 



Fork over the beds and make read\' for plantino- 



the S])ring flowering bulbs. It is well to defer adding 

 animal manure to the beds until prejjaring for plant- 

 ing the Summer bedding. Should the soil be of a 

 heavy retentive nature, it will benefit from a good 

 dressing of leaf soil. Early tulips, hyacinths, and nar- 

 cissi can be planted. Get in crocus, scillas, grape hya- 

 cinths, etc., and plant all hardy lilies as soon as they 

 are received from the dealer. If left out of the ground 

 for any length of time, they bi-come shriveled and their 

 vitality is much impaired. 



If any alterations are contemplated in the herbace- 

 ous border, it should be done at once. The lifting and 

 dividing of those plants that have become too 

 crowded, if done early, will make new roots and be- 

 come established before Winter sets in. Plant out 

 young stuff' raised from seed which has been grown 

 on during the .Summer. 



The borders will continue to be attractive with such 

 plants as Eupatoriums, late asters, late planted mignon 

 dahlias, gladioli, celosias, and the hardy chrysan- 

 themums which are the mainstay of this season. 

 Many fine varieties have been added to this invalu- 

 able class during the last few years, and the amateur 

 who has added these novelties to his garden can be 

 assured of good material for cutting throughout this 

 month, providing some simple precaution is taken to 

 give some protection if severe frosts threaten. 



As soon as the frost cuts down dahlias and cannas, 

 lift them. See that all dahlias are properly labeled. 

 Allow them to dry outside for a time and then store 

 away in barrels or boxes, stem downwards so that 

 any moisture can drain away, otherwise it may be a 

 menace to the crowns. A cool frost-proof cellar is a 

 good place to keep the tubers. 



Keep the lawns cut and trim until growth ceases. 

 From now on the raking and carting of leaves will be 

 the order of the day. It is a great mistake to burn 

 the leaves providing one has any room or ])lace to 

 accommodate them. They should be carefully garnered 

 where they can later be used, possibly for ])rotect- 

 ing the rose beds, or for covering the celery for 

 the Winter outside, where one has no root cellar to 

 store away the crop, or protected outside from choice. 

 In the Spring these leaves are again gathered and 

 placed in some position where they decompose and 

 form leaf soil, which is a most valuable asset in the 

 garden, as it can be used to advantage in vegetable 

 and flower gardens, and it is invaluable for compost, 

 in ])()tting or transplanting seedlings. 



Many growers prefer to get their stock of roses 

 now instead of waiting until the Spring, when there 

 is a heavy demand for these plants from the nursery- 

 men. If they are not planted into their permanent beds 

 this Fall, they can be laid in rind wintered in a cold frame, 

 and are on hand in the Spring ready to be planted when 

 the conditions are right. 



Shorteft back long growths on Hybrid Teas and 

 Hybrid Pcr])etuals. This prevents much damage 

 arising from winds which loosens them at the collar 

 and other e\ils, if allowed to retain the long strag- 

 gling growths. I 



