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HORTICULTURE 



August 13, 1910 



unsparingly enriched witli some very old manure will 

 do. In planting let the top of each bulb be even with 

 the surface and make the soil moderately firm around 

 and beneath the bulbs. Place the flats outdoors giving 

 them a thorough watering. If the weather is dry a 

 watering about once a week will be required to nourish 

 the roots. Place a covering of about four inches of soil 

 over the flats and in December cover with about four- 

 inches of coarse stable manure to keep hard frost out. 



STOCKS 



Stocks that were sown in June for winter flowering 

 should be in .3-inch pots by this time and fairly well 

 filled with roots. Never allow them to become pot- 

 bound, but shift them on into larger sizes until a 5 or 

 6-inch pot is reached. When they show their flower 

 spikes you can pick out the double ones by their short, 

 stubby buds, and discard single ones. Keep them out- 

 side until October, when they can be transferred to the 

 house and as soon as you have identified the double 

 ones, plant them out on a bench in a cool house. Sow 

 again about the middle of this month for spring bloom. 



VIOLETS 



Violets, whether in the house or frames, will need 

 faithful attention this month and next. Abundance of 

 water during the hot and dry weather of August is 

 essential. The plants must be kept clean by removing 

 all leaves that show the least signs of spot or decay. 

 Maintain a cool and dry atmosphere by carefully at- 

 tending to the airing. Conditions for a weak and sickly 

 growth are a moist, hot and stagnant atmosphere which 

 is sure to supply elements favorable to the development 

 of fungous diseases. In all bright weather syringe in 

 the early part of the day so that the ventilation can be 

 relied upon to dry out your house and plants before 

 night. By the end of this month a light mulch of leaf 

 mold and old, dry manure will help them along. All 

 runners should be closely pinched oft'. 



D.4.ISIES 



Marguerites that are intended for winter blooming 

 should" have their last shift now. A 7 or 8-inch pot 

 makes a very suitable size. These plants are gross 

 feeders, and therefore the fertility of the soil is a very 

 important factor in the production of fine flowering 

 plants. The soil should be well enriched with at least 

 one-third of its bulk of cow manure. Keep pinching 

 so as to keep them bushy and in September transfer to 

 some cool house where there is plenty of ventilation, 

 as this also is a very essential item in their cultivation. 

 Frequent syringing" should be practiced daily when the 

 weather permits. Watering should never be neglected. 

 It is a good time now to propagate for next spring's 

 trade. At the approach of cool weather you can com- 

 bat the green and black aphis, which are at times very 

 troublesome, by frequent light fumigations of tobacco. 



NARCISSUS 



It is always best to secure the strongest bulbs, remem- 

 bering that the flowers are formed the previous season 

 in the bulbs, and the best culture will fail to make 

 them produce more. Good culture will tend to make 

 such flowers larger and of better keeping qualities. A 

 very important essential with Paper White narcissi is 

 that they be allowed time for root development before 

 the tops'begin to grow. After boxing these bulbs place 

 in a cold frame to root. Water them from time to 

 time in order to keep up the necessary amount of 

 moisture at their roots. If they are planted now they 

 will make sufficient roots in five or six weeks, and if 

 then placed in a light house and kept at from 55 to 60 

 degrees thev will flower in seven or eight weeks. 



THE CAEE OF CAENATIONS ■ 



Now is the time to exercise good judgment in water- 



ing and syringing. On all bright days syringe early so 

 that the foliage will be dry before night. Examine the 

 soil in several places on the benches, especially about 

 the sides and ends, for there they always dry out more 

 quickly than the middle of the bench, and be sure to 

 take care of these dry places before watering over the 

 wliole beds. The aim of the grower should be to make 

 them harden up their growth a little by giving the 

 plants a constant supply of pure air. Before you put 

 the plant supports in place remove all dead and dis- 

 eased foliage. Don't wait until your plants are over- 

 run with greenfly before you fumigate or spray. It is 

 easier to keep the pests in cheek by regular attention. 



Mr. Farrell's next notes will be on the following: 

 Cattleyas; Browallias; Coeos; Geranium Cuttings; Myoso- 

 tis; Housing Tender Plants; Otaheite Oranges; Sweet 

 Peas for Winter; Repairing the Heating Apparatus. 



Some Pests and Diseases of Melons 

 Under Glass 



Melons under glass are subject to many and varied 

 pests and diseases and in no other instance does the old 

 adage better apply — "Prevention is better than cure;" 

 but, in spite of all, they will find a way in on us. 



Green and black fly will often appear when the plants 

 are in their young stage. These are easily eradicated 

 by fumigating. Red spider and thrips will appear if the 

 atmosphere is kept too dry. Continued hard syringings 

 especially under the foliage will soon do away with these. 



What is known as "Canker" which really is a fungus 

 growth, found at the base of the stem, is often pre- 

 vented by keeping the bed dry for two inches around the 

 Ijase of the stem. Care shotild also be taken when 

 syringing, not to wet the stem for six inches up from 

 tiie ground after the fruit has set. Varieties having a 

 whorl of leaves at the seed leaf are more subject to 

 canker than others. It is advisable to remove these 

 gradtially, using a sharp knife, when the plants are 

 half grown. This admits sun and air to the stem and 

 these are the greatest preventive we have. The first 

 signs of canker are a moistening of the stem just above 

 the soil, which in time goes rotten and the plant col- 

 lapses. As soon as this appears rub the affected part 

 with freshly slacked lime until it is hard and dry and 

 allow the sun to shine on it all day. Stem rot is similar 

 to look at and appears away up on the stem. This can 

 often be traced to a twist or some other rupture of the 

 cells. Treat as for canker. 



Mildew is the result of bad ventilation. Cold 

 draughts should be avoided. Should the disease appear, 

 blow sulphur on the affected parts. 



Mealy bttg is hard to eradicate after it attains a foot- 

 ing. The best method is to thoroughly clean the liouse 

 before planting, and also use either cyanide extra strong 

 or burn sulphur to exterminate any germs that may be 

 left. 



The natural composition of the soil affects most dis- 

 eases in the melon and after one season's study these 

 can often be met and beaten off by a watchful eve. 



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