November 26, 1910 



HORTICULTURE, 



729 



Frilff-C anA \Ff><yf>fciU\(>(i T ]-nA(>r rTla<;<5 ^^y approved insecticide and if pests have been bad use 



i rUUb d-llU V CgCiaUlCS L-'IlUCr VJld.&b ^j^ ^jj^ ^^^.-^^ ^^^._^ ^^ ^.^^p .^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^_ Proceed with 



ROOT PRUNING, PEACHES AND NECTARINES any renovatioii or top dressing of border which may be 



Young trees newly planted will often make very necessary, 



strong wood, for a year or two, and if this is not pre- Peach houses for starting at same date will need 



NEW 



TREE WITH ALL ITS ROOTS, AFTER EXCAVATION 



vented they will never give satisfaction. Strong coarse, 

 wood, carrying very few flower buds will be produced 

 each year. Trees will consequently become unshapely 

 and the roots will be down amongst the drainage, in- 

 stead of nearer the surface — which latter greatly facili- 

 tates feeding. 



There is no danger of buds dropping if this operation 

 is done at the right time — viz., as soon as the leaves 

 commence to fall or as soon after as possible and ordin- 

 ary care is taken with the roots. 



Commence operations by getting out a half circle 

 trench around the tree, taking the trunk as the center, 

 nearly down to the drainage. Any roots cut at this 

 distance wiU not be missed. After this use a fork to 

 pick out soil from between roots, and throw it out of 

 the way. Continue this until about 18 inches from 

 stem and then go down underneath half the ball 

 with the fork to cut off any tap root or those having 

 a downward tendency. When this has been done ram 

 soil firmly underneath again and proceed with the other 

 half. Lift all roots which are too low and replace soil 

 to within six inches of level, making same firm with 

 rammers. Remove all strong and vigorous roots and 

 spread out fibrous ones evenly over the surface and 

 Qovering same with soil. 



In shortening any roots use a sharp knife, also cut 

 any ends which may have been broken off, as a clean 

 cut always heals quicker and breaks better. 



No rule can be laid down as to how much root to 

 remove. Be governed by the amount of growth already 

 made and the condition of the roots. Do not allow the 

 roots to become dry during operations.. Spray trees 

 twice a day after pruning; this helps to keep the buds 

 plump. 



Early vinery intended for starting December 1st 

 should be pruned and house thoroughly washed down. 

 The vines should have any loose bark rubbed off with 

 the hand. Loose bark harbors pests later. Wash with 



SAME TREE AFTER ROOT PRUNING 



similar treatment. Use Gishurst's Compound as a . 

 wash. Do not overcrowd when tying in. 



Peaches and nectarines in pots can be started at once, 

 provided all necessary potting has been done and trees 

 liave had a few frosts on them. 



Rhubarb and seakale should now force easily if they 

 were lifted earlier and covered lightly with litter to 

 allow frosts to work on them. If a quantity is to be 

 forced, labor will be well spent to make up a mild hot 

 bed in some suitable place. Otherwise use large pots. 



6 ^p^~x:i 



>^?vv., 



Mr. I'euson's next uotes wUI be on Pot Vines; Melons In 

 Pots; Repotting Fruit Trees— Peaches, Nectarines, Apples, Pears, 

 Cherries, Plums. Figs; Bush Beans; Lettuce; Spinach. 



An Interesting Question in Grape 

 Hybridization 



Where Vitis vulpina is part of a combination of 

 hybrid grapes I have many seeming reversions of that 

 species, and am testing them by planting their seeds to 

 deteimine as to whether they are true reversions or 

 Mendelian dominants. It has for a long time puzzled 

 me to account for the great number (sometimes as high 

 as 75 per cent.) of reversions of that species when a 

 reversion among other species is quite rare. But fin- 

 ally the following has occurred to me as possible cause. 



it is well known that the Vulpina blossoms very 

 much earlier than other species. That being the case 

 it may be possible that pollen having Vulpina tenden- 



