November 26, 1910 



ttOKTlCULTURi: 



731 



Pentstemon Hybrids 



One of the more important introductions of recent 

 years of which the liorticultiiral craft so far has hardly 

 taken due notice, are the new hirge flowering Pentstemon 

 Hybrids. They represent an imjn-oved strain of wiiat is 

 known in continental Europe as the gentianoides class. 

 In hardiness they eijiial the antirrhinums, that is, they 

 figure as perennials in the mild climate of the South 

 and are generally treated as annuals throughout the 

 Northern States. What distinguishes this new strain is 

 a strong sturdy growth and free flowering qualities. The 

 most conspicuous feature is, however, the wonderful va- 

 riety in tints and shades of the large tubular funnel- 

 shaped flowers ranging from pure white to a very deep 

 red. The beauty ,of a mass effect of their tall erect 

 spikes is unsurpassed especially in clear pink and bright 

 red colors. Well done, they attract attention in the 

 mixed flower border at the first sight and I do not in the 

 least hesitate to class them among our most effective bed- 

 ding plants. The dark-green, glossy foliage is of good 

 form and substance. Tlie bushy habit of growth and the 

 remarkable floriferousness lasting until severe frosts stop 

 vegetation are attributes appreciated and looked for in 

 first-class ornamental bedding stock. As cut flowers 

 pentstemon hybrids have proven a magnificent material 

 for filling vases. Their lasting qualities may not be 

 sufficient for long distance shipping but it is ample for 

 from two to three days' home use. 



Pentstemon hybrids should be sown under glass in light 

 soil during February. Pricked over into flats the young 

 plants will be ready for the open ground early in May. 

 A rich garden soil and in Northern States an open sunny 

 position are a necessity. South of New York I should 

 advise to give the ground surface between the plants a 

 thin mulching of dry short lawn clippings until the 

 plants are of a size to shade themselves. The roots, I 

 noticed, do not run very deep but like to spread out and 



therefore are apt to be burned by the hot sun rays heat- 

 ing the top soil around them to an injurious extent. 



-S^jUA/ClAxL -^O^i 



^JIAJ 



Nurtheast Harbor, Maine. 



Symplocos crataegoides 



This beautiful shrub which is found from the Hima- 

 layas to Japan, although introduced from Nepaul in 1834 

 and meriting a position in all gardens where the most 

 desirable flowering shrubs are sought after, is still very 

 uncommon in cultivation. Early in June the white 

 flowers ajDpear in great profusion just as the leaves are 

 commencing to unfold, but the greatest attraction is tui- 

 (loubtedly the beautiful cerulean-blue fruits which color 

 early in the fall and remain in good condition for a long 

 time. 



In its native habitat this Symplocos is said to make a 

 small, open-branched tree forty feet in height but in this 

 country it will probably only attain to a broad bush. 

 Some very good specimens are to be seen in the Arbor- 

 etum which are now about fifteen feet high and every 

 \ear are a source of much attention, the color of the 

 lierries being so attractive and rare among shrubs. It 

 may be propagated from seed, which takes from twelve 

 months to two years to germinate, and when planted 

 out should be given a position fully exposed to the sun 

 and in a well drained loamy soil. 



Arnold Arboretwin. 



Asparagus Forcing 



The most important point in regard to forcing this 

 plant is that none but strong roots should be used, and 

 at least two years old. Home grown roots are the best 

 as they can be lifted and stored all ready for forcing, 

 while those that are shipped from a distance are sure 

 to suifer more or less from dryness. They can be 

 grown on any bench that is deep enough to allow suffi- 

 cient covering to blanch the shoots. They should be 

 covered to the depth of six inches with sand or leaf 

 mold or any light material that will hold moisture. 

 The roots should never suffer for water after they once 

 get started. In about 3 or 4 weeks from the time they 

 were put in, the growth will begin to appear. They like 

 a temperature of from 50 to 55 degrees. They should 

 be lightly shaded so as to draw and help blanch them. 

 Start cutting when the shoots are 2 or 3 inches above 

 the bed, taking care not to break the young growths 

 that are coming up; it will pay to be careful in this 

 matter. By putting in a batch every 3 or 3 weeks, a 

 steady supply can be had. They can also be grown 

 under the benches. 



