December 10, 1910 



HORTICULTURE. 



809 



season. Tliis is only what should reasonably be expected 

 as the sensational aspect of the large blooms wears off 

 and the average quality of the product for market ad- 

 vances through the introduction of improved varieties 

 and the acquirement generally of better cultural meth- 

 ods. We know that the opinion has been repeatedly ex- 

 pressed that this recession from fancy values must be 

 interpreted as evidence of wavering popularity but we 

 do not so regard it. It has been pleasant to note that 

 the markets which we have had opportunity to watcK 

 have been unprecedentedly free this season from the 

 low-grade chrysanthemum flowers formerly abundant. 

 Another fact worth keeping in view is the very general 

 call for the small-flowered varieties cut in natural 

 sprays. The adaptability of the clear colored pompons 

 and improved singles for table and other decorative work 

 has met with ready appreciation this season and there is 

 excellent reason to believe that these classes will rapidly 

 forge ahead to a position of considerable importance in 

 the flower market — not displacing but supplementing 

 the stately blooms of the large-flowering section. 



Fruit and Vegetables Under Glass 



STRAWBEEKIES 



Strawberries can be started any time after Dec. 1st. 

 Good results are seldom obtained by starting at an 

 earlier date. Batches should be brought in at intervals, 

 and where a lioiise is not given entirely to them, should 

 be placed on shelves near the glass. When plants are 

 sufficiently dry, look to drainage of each pot, readjust 

 any which have become faulty, as good 'drainage is es- 

 sential, and firm all balls which have become loose with 

 frequent waterings during the growing season and the 

 early frosts. Give a temperature of 40 degrees to 45 

 degrees at night; advance 5 degrees by day and 10 de- 

 grees with sun heat. Syringe twice a day when possi- 

 ble. Marshall is one of the best for this early work. 



PRUNING AND TYING PEACH TREES 



There is more art in correctly pruning and tying a 

 peach or nectarine tree on a trellis than a casual ob- 

 server would credit. No fruit tree looks prettier when 

 in flower than a well-balanced and symmetrically 

 trained peach, especially if you select one of the large- 

 flowered varieties such as Hale's Early, Duke of York 

 or Advance (Nectarine). 



Much success or vice versa in this respect lies in 

 knowing how to disbud and heel in young growths. 

 When doing this see that each growth has enough space 

 to grow without crowding ; then the following winter it 

 is not necessary to use the loiife to any great extent. 

 The whole thing is simplified by leaving all growths 

 on the top side of a shoot and when the latter has to 

 be cut away to make room for a young growth, it is 

 simply pulled down in its place. 



As flower buds are borne on last year's wood, as much 

 of this as possible should be retained. Cut away any 

 old and worthless wood, using a sharp knife to do so. 



Secateurs may be all right for pruning trees and 

 bushes outside, but inside where so many troubles have 

 to be overcome nothing should be left to chance. A 

 clean cut will always heal, but a ragged or bruised one 

 is liable to die back or "gum." 



Always make sure of a good bottom to your tree; the 

 center will fill up itself. When tying in a tree lay all 

 the heavy wood in first using soft string to secure it in 

 its place. The lighter wood can then be disposed of 



over the intervening spaces. When finished you should 

 be able to get your hand (broadways) between each 

 shoot. 



MAKING A VINE BORDER 



Borders can be made up as late as the end of Feb- 

 ruary, but the sooner done the better, as the soil will 

 settle down and canes can be planted right away. All 

 borders should have a concrete bottom (with a grade 

 to a drain, to allow water to get away) and sides to 

 keep roots in absolute restriction. Depth of border 

 has been a problem for many years to growers of grapes 

 under glass and now in place of the deep borders (or 

 you could almost call them borders without a bottom), 

 which were in vogue years ago, we use shallow, well- 

 drained borders of no greater dimensions than are neces- 

 sary and they have much to recommend them, viz., by 

 drying out oftener the soil is sweetened — surface roots 

 are encouraged, thus aiding feeding — air can penetrate 

 and disseminate food substances. 



This shallowness has been overdone in some cases, 

 necessitating constant watching and waterings. I have 

 seen Gros Colman growing in about 10 inches of soil, 

 but was told they took as much watching as pot vines 

 and entailed much labor by constant watering. 



Allow three feet from level to concrete bottom; fill 

 in 1 foot of drainage made of rough bricks with a few 

 lines of land draining pipes through them; cover this 

 with a layer of sod and fill in soil. A good compost is 

 10 parts loam, 1 of crushed bricks and mortar rubble, 

 1 of charcoal, 1 of large bone (3 to 3 inches), 1 of small 

 (half-inch) bone. 



If young canes are to be planted it is a mistake to 

 make the whole border up at once. Give them about 

 3 ft., 6 in. to start with. This will probably last them 

 two seasons and when filled up with roots add another 

 3 feet ; this gives more room and sweet soil to grow into. 



ASPARAGUS 



Asparagus can be forced as soon as frosts have suf- 

 ficiently retarded its growth. Bottom heat is essential 

 To obtain the best crops. A heated frame answers the 

 purpose well. Cover the crowns about 3 inches with 

 any light soil — leaf soil for preference. Throughout 

 give a liberal supply of water. Commence with a tem- 

 perature of 4.5 degrees to 50 degrees and after growth 

 commences advance 5 degrees. 



CHICORY 



This finds a place in many salads and forces with a 

 minimum of trouble. Place roots in a warm, dark 

 cellar and keep moist. When only a small quantity is 

 required a few roots can be placed in large pots and 

 others inverted over them to blanch it. 



RADISHES 



Eadishes mature quickly and can be utilized as a 

 catch crop or a single row can be sown between lettuce, 

 spinach, etc., and be ready for use before being crowded 

 out. If grown by themselves sow in drills 3 inches 

 apart and thin out seedlings to 2 inches. Forty-five 

 degrees to 50 degrees will suit them at night with ad- 

 vance by day. Strong heat is apt to make them soff 

 and pithy. 



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