898 



HORTICULTURE 



December 24, 1910 



Fruit and Vegetables under Glass 



PEaNiNG Vines 



One of three systems is usually used in pruning 

 vines, viz:— the extension system and the short and 

 long spur systems. As the name indicates the former is 

 an extension of the vine each year and has much to 

 recommend it, especially where more than one rod is 

 grown on one root. It is a mistake to think a rooted 

 vine will only carry one rod satisfactorily. It would take 

 a few years to fill up a house if only one or two vines 

 were planted but if this system should be adopted a 

 house could be planted at the usual distance apart — 

 four feet — and the rods removed as the room was re- 

 quired to extend the permanent vine. Where more than 

 one rod can be used to advantage as in the case of a 

 border being insufficient through heating pipes, etc., 

 coming through it, then an extra rod can be utilized to 

 advantage. The main object of the extension system is 

 to have a young rod, or part of one, fruiting each sea- 

 son and also to encourage more root action, by having so 

 many young canes growing up each year. As these are 

 growing quite a distance without a stop it will stimu- 

 late the root action and give additional vigor to the whole 

 vine. The greatest example of this method is to be seen 

 at Hampton Court, London, where one vine — a Black 

 Hamburgh— fills a house 30 x 60 ft., producing over 

 1500 bunches annually. 



The short spur is used more than any other and has 

 more to recommend it. Eods are more easily cleaned 

 and an even crop is insured. You lose that unsightly 

 appearance of long spurs and with proper treatment a 

 vine will last for years. When pruning, cut laterals 

 back to two eyes. Should both of these break, the 

 strongest shoot can be retained and the other rubbed 

 off. Prune as soon as leaves have fallen; this gives 

 whatever buds are left time to plump up before starting. 

 The long spur is a repetition of this, with the exception 

 that, when pruning any quantity of eyes are left, the 

 object being to cut back to an extra good eye, which in 

 turn will make a strong growth and sometimes an extra 

 fine bunch. I say "sometimes" as it does not always 

 follow that the best bunch is produced on the strongest 

 wood. I would only recommend this system if a vinery 

 was to be pulled out in a year or two. Nothing can be 

 said greatly in its favor. Short spurs are better all 

 round — eleaner, better shaped, and a good even crop is 

 sure. 



Extending the PEi\CH Season 

 The increasing popularity of peaches and nectarines 

 grown under glass, makes it necessary for the man who 

 has only one, or perhaps two, houses devoted to them to 

 extend the season as much as possible. A season can be 

 prolonged several weeks by planting varieties which 

 will ripen their fruit consecutively with the same treat- 

 ment. By so doing a small number of trees can furnish 

 a supply for several weeks. The following, or part, will 

 give a supply for eight or ten weeks. 



Cardinal ; the earliest nectarine grown, well adapted 



for early forcing; ripens its fruit 10 or 12 days before 

 the next named. 



Early Elvers; a fine fruit of good size and appear- 

 ance. 



Lord Napier; fine flavor and ships well. 

 Advance; one of the newer introductions; in some 

 places does not set well. 



Pine Apple; an old favorite of good quality, always 

 sure. Milton and Spencer are later ones of good 

 quality. 



Duke of York ; a peach of recent introduction of fine 

 flavor; one of the earliest. 



Peregrine; also new, a reliable cropper; attaining a 

 great color. 



Merlin ; reliable always. 



English Galande ; a peach of good size and quality. 

 Princess of Wales; one of the largest peaches grown. 

 Thomas Rivers ; the best late peach grown under 

 glass. 



This list could be added to at length, but these varie- 

 ties will give a good season. 



Green Peas 

 Seed sown during September will now be cropping. 

 This may not prove a profitable crop, but where room can 

 be found in a cool vegetable house, the luxury will 

 satisfy those who live high. As it is, probably few are 

 in the market. From seed sown now, peas can be 

 gathered the latter part of March. If room can be 

 found a few should be given a trial. Peas are gross 

 feeders and require a good rich soil on the heavy side. 

 A solid bench should be used in preference, as it will 

 keep moister and cooler than a raised one. A night 

 temperature of 45-50 is hot enough with a raise of 10 

 degrees by day. The medium and dwarf growing varie- 

 ties should be used, as often head room is scarce. A fair 

 crop can be gathered from such varieties as Sutton's 

 Pioneer, Harbinger and Little Marvel. Sow in double 

 rows 3 ft. apart, if across a narrow bench, but more room 

 will be required if a wide bench is used. 



Turnip Tops versus Sea Kale 

 Turnips are sometimes forced in place of sea kale. 

 As to which is best the consumer must judge. Wliere a 

 quantity of turnips are already stored a few can be 

 brought in and plunged in some light soil and kept in 

 a dark, moist, temperature of 60 to 65. Blanched top 

 growth will soon commence and can be cut the same as 

 sea kale. 



Cauliflowers 

 Cauliflowers sown from now on will have the advant- 

 age of a "coming" season. Sow in flats and when large 

 enough, prick off into small pots or flats. Never allow 

 roots to become cramped or pot-bound, as plants never 

 get away after it and only "button in." A temperature 

 of 55 at night suits them. Use a rich soil but green 

 manures should be avoided as it causes club root, etc. 

 Keep well watered when plants are rooted. 



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Mr Penson's next notes will be on Tomatoes for Succession; 

 < iicumbers, Be.st Varieties tor Forcing; Cherries In Pots. 



