December 31, 1910 



HORTICULTURE 



931 



Seasonable Notes on Culture of 

 Florists^ Stock 



ADIANTUM FARLEYENSE 



These plants will stand a temperature up to 70 

 degrees, but a night temperature of 65 degrees will be 

 found sufficient, as a higher degree of heat is liable to 

 produce a softer, thinner texture to the foliage. From 

 now until March they will stand full light without in- 

 jury — in fact they are improved greatly in texture by 

 having no shade during this season of the year. Care- 

 fully maintain a proper condition of the atmosphere, 

 especially on bright warm days when it is necessary to 

 admit much air, which consequently carries off a great 

 deal of the moisture. This will have to be offset by 

 damping down the floors frequently. A moderate 

 amount of ventilation is necessary for the growth of 

 thrifty plants. During rainy and gloomy weather guard 

 particularly against an over-moist atmosphere. Three 

 points to be considered in growing this fern are : never 

 allow extremes in dryness, heat or moisture. During 

 the next six weeks is a good time to propagate Adiantum 

 Farleyense. Fill a bench with clean sand, putting a 

 layer of sphagnum on the bottom first, and filling with 

 sand to the depth of about 3 or 4-inches.' Plants that 

 have furnished cut fronds earlier in tlie season, and are 

 now sliowing innumerable small fronds are the best to 

 use. They can be divided into pieces large enough for 

 either 2, 2i/2, or 3-inch pots. These pieces can be in- 

 serted in the sand quite close. Give some suitable shade, 

 if house is not already shaded. Keep the temperature 

 of the frame from 70 to 75 degrees, with a nice moist 

 atmosphere. When they have made sufficient roots pot 

 them in a compost of equal proportion of fibrous loam, 

 leaf mold and sand and keep in a temperature of about 

 70 degrees. 



YOUNG CYCLAMENS 



Young cyclamens that were sown last August or 

 September should by this time have made three or four 

 leaves and should be now transplanted into other boxes. 

 The soil for this first shift should be very light, sandy 

 and friable — a compost of fresh loam and partly decom- 

 posed leaf mold in equal parts with a dash of clean sharp 

 sand added. Make provision for ample drainage. When 

 shifting the seedlings from flat to flat select the ones that 

 have made a stronger and sturdiergrowth and plant these 

 together in separate flats. Give a constant steady tem- 

 perature of not less than 65 degrees at night. Eaise them 

 up into full light near the glass, in order to prevent them 

 from becoming drawn and weak arid keep the atmosphere 

 moderately moist. Good judgment must be exercised 

 in ventilation according to the condition of the weather 

 out of doors. Guard against cold draughts or a too 

 sudden fall in the temperature. On all bright mornings 

 they should be lightly syringed. To keep free of insects 

 fumigate regularly. 



DRACAENAS 



All plants that are not fit to be grown on, or that are 

 damaged, are good material to use for increase of stock. 

 A special frame is the most convenient place. Fill this 

 frame to the depth of four inches with a mixture of sharp 

 sand and chopped sphagnum in equal parts. Cut the 

 long stems into pieces about 2 or 3 inches long and put 

 in this warm bed, which should be kept moderately 

 moist. To root well they should have a bottom heat of 

 at least from 75 to 80 degrees of heat. When the young 

 shoots have made a growth of from 3 to 3-inches they 

 can be potted up either with the whole piece or cut off 



with a small heel attached to eacJi plant. Use a good 

 turfy soil with some leaf mold and a sprinkling of sand. 

 A 3-ineh pot is about right for tlie first potting. Keep 

 in a warm Immid atmosphere and gradually expose to 

 lull light as they become established. Give a daily 

 syringing except during dull weather. 



GLOXINIAS 



When the fresh supply of gloxinia seed can be obtained 

 it is better to sow at once than to wait later. Earthen- 

 ware seed pans are much better than wooden flats. Fill 

 these pans half-full after crocking, with semi-decayed 

 sod, and on this spread a mixture of soil and leaf-mold 

 in equal parts with enough of sand to make it gritty. 

 Sow the seed on this and just press in firmly on the 

 moistened surface; cover with a square of glass, and 

 place near the light in a temperature of from 60 to 65 

 degrees. In two or three weeks the little plantlets will' 

 appear when tliey should have more light and air. 

 When the seedlings are fit to handle, they can be pricked 

 into other pans or flats, using similar soil. Place near 

 the glass so they will make short sturdy plants. Care is 

 necessary in watering in order to keep them from damp- 

 ing off. As the plants grow and fill their pots with roois 

 they should be shifted along until their flowering pots 

 are reached. Six or 7-inch are the most suitable for 

 growing fine gloxinias. 



ONCIDIUMS 



All species that have finished flowering such as vari- 

 cosum Eogersii, splendidum, tigrinum, ornithorynchum, 

 etc., delight in a position where they can receive an 

 abundance of light during their resting season. In fact 

 they all do better when suspended as near the glass as 

 possible. It is proper now to provide a drier and more 

 airy atmosphere ; it imparts later on a healthier growth, 

 with greater vigor. Give only enough water to sustain 

 them in a plump condition. Most of these orchids can 

 be rested in a cool house when care is observed as to 

 watering. Forty-five to fifty degrees at night with about 

 10 degrees higher in bright weather during the winter 

 months is about right while they are resting. Oncidiums 

 varicosum, splendidum, Forbsii and tigrinum all like this 

 cool treatment, but a temperature of about 50 degrees 

 is better for Oncidium ornithorynchum. 



ROSES 



During the short days such as we have now, the houses 

 should have all the air possible. Avoid any careless 

 ventilating or you are sure to cause a dose of mildew. It 

 is a good plan to raise the ventilators a few inches when 

 the temperature gets to 65 degrees, doing it inch by inch 

 so as not cause a too sudden drop, and in the afternoon 

 reduce the air the same way. At this time of the year 

 both watering and syringing should be done very care- 

 fully. Examine your beds especially during heavy firing 

 as the tops may have the appearance of being plenty 

 moist, while the bottom may be quite dry. Syringe on 

 every bright day or red spider is bound to become 

 troublesome, especially with American Beauty. After 

 a crop has been cut the beds should be kept somewhat on 

 the dry side for a week or ten days so as to increase good 

 root action. This should not be overdone ; just keep the 

 beds in a nice mellow condition. 





Mr. Farrell's next notes wiU be on the following: Alocaslas; 

 Fuchsias: Heliotropes: I.ongillorum Lilie.s; Propagating Crotons; 

 The Propagation of DahUas. 



