January 7, 1911 



HORTICULTURE 



Seasonable Notes on Culture of 

 Florists' Stock 



ALOCASIAS 



At this season of the year, water should be withheld 

 so as to allow these plants a season of rest — that is the 

 herbaceous species. As the leaves show signs of matur- 

 ing water can be withheld altogether until they start 

 up again. Plants that have become too big and of a 

 straggling nature should be cut into pieces, taking care 

 to retain an eye to each piece. Use air-slacked lime over 

 the cuts. Let the pieces lie in a warm place for a few 

 days until they become drj', then lay them in a propagat- 

 ing frame on the sand and cover up with moss. Keep 

 the atmosphere moist, with a temperature of 80 degrees. 

 This is the best way to propogate Alocasia Lowii and 

 Sanderiana, as they make but few small bulbs. Alocasia 

 maerorhiza variegata, metallica, Thibautiana and Se- 

 denii, when strong, produce quite a few rhizomes which 

 can be propagated. After they have started they can 

 be potted up in a compost of one-third each of fibrous 

 peat, turfy loam and chopped sphagnum. 



FUCHSIAS 



Bring in now some of your fuchsias that have been 

 resting; shake and repot in good fresh soil. They can 

 be started in a temperature of from 55 to 60 degrees. 

 Shorten them back to firm ripe wood, and give them a 

 good daily syringing, and you will be able to get a fine 

 batch of cuttings in three or four weeks. These plants 

 can be propagated with good success up to the end of 

 February. They like a bottom heat of 70 degrees with 

 a top heat of about 55 degrees. WHien they are rooted, 

 which should be in about two or three weeks, they can 

 be potted into 21^^ or 3-inch pots, using a compost of 

 two parts of fibrous loam to one of well-rotted manure 

 and one part of leaf-mold, with a fair sprinkling of sand. 

 Place the plants near the glass and syringe often so as to 

 promote growth and to keep down aphides and red 

 spider. They can be shifted along until they are in the 

 desired size. Five and 6-inch makes a good salable size. 

 They can be pinched, which will induce them to break 

 into two or three leading growths. If a more compact 

 plant is needed they can be stopped a second time. 

 Fuchsia speciosa is an old but standard variety for 

 vases, veranda boxes or beds. 



HELIOTROPE 



Now is a good time to start and increase your stock 

 of this plant. Put in cuttings of the best varieties, bear- 

 ing in mind that the dark colored varieties emit a 

 stronger fragrance, while their flowers last longer. When 

 rooted pot into Si/o-inch, using a compost of fibry loam 

 two parts and well decomposed manure one part. They 

 will need to be shifted as they get well-rooted. When 

 well-established they like a cool, airy and sunny house, 

 but guard against sudden falls of temperature and cold 

 draughts. Give them a temperature of not over 50 

 degrees at night with a buoyant atmosphere at all times, 

 for they don't like to be huddled up in warm and over- 



humid quarters. They will need careful watering and 

 frequent spraying until they begin to bloom. When 

 they become root-bound in 5 or 6-inch pots they should 

 have occasional applications of weak manure water. 



LONGIFLORUMS 



These lilies should be brought in now and placed on 

 a bench in a house having a temperature of not over 50 

 degrees. Care should be exercised in watering at thi& 

 stage. In about two weeks the temperature can be 

 raised to 60 degi'ees — that is, if the pots are well filled 

 with roots ; if not, it would be better 'to give them 55 

 degrees. Place them as near the glass as accommoda- 

 tion will permit. In the six weeks previous to Easter 

 they will endure a good strong heat — anywhere from 

 65 to 70 degrees in order to bring them right. Fumi- 

 gate moderately once a week so as to keep down the 

 aphis. 



PROPAGATING CROTONS 



There is no question that it is better to moss all the 

 good tops available, and the sooner a beginning is made 

 the better. Select the stem and denude of leaves for a 

 distance of 2 or 3 inches. With a sharp knife make an 

 incision upward in the wood of half an inch, and from 

 one-half to one-third through. Place a little sphagnum 

 in the incision to keep it open, then put a small quan- 

 tity of sphagnum about the size of an egg and tie it on. 

 Place these plants by themselves so the moss can be 

 kept moist, while the roots should be kept rather dry 

 which will hasten the process of rooting. In about four 

 weeks, under favorable conditions, the roots should be 

 seen coming through the moss, when it is time to sever 

 the tops from the parent plant and pot them. After 

 the tops are potted they should be placed in a frame 

 where there is a gentle bottom heat. Keep the atmos- 

 phere well charged with moisture. For a week or two 

 they should be shaded from the svm and care exercised 

 in watering. When the foliage is in no way limp and' 

 the plants have the appearance of sturdiness, they 

 should be taken out and placed on a bench in a house- 

 where the temperature can be maintained near 70 de- 

 grees at night, and given frequent syringings in order to 

 keep the air moist. Crotons can also be propagated by 

 cuttings in a warm propagating frame. 



THE PROPAGATION OF DAHLIAS 



Young plants propagated from now on will give abun- 

 dance of flowers. Old roots that you have under the 

 bench can be placed on a bench where there is some bot- 

 tom heat and sufficient soil scattered on the roots. The 

 young growth will soon start. Give them a temperature 

 of from 55 to 60 degrees. These can be cut off 3 or 4 

 inches long or so as to leave a joint at the base, and 

 inserted in the propagating bed. They will soon root 

 and should then be potted and grown on. When once 

 established in small pots give them the fullest light and 

 plenty of syringing to keep down thrips and spider. 

 When well rooted in their small pots they should be 

 shifted into 4-inch and given a house where the tem- 

 perature is near 50 degrees. If you have not much 

 room at hand you can defer this until February or 

 March. 



Mr. FarreU's next notes will be on the following: Abntilons; 

 Acalyphas; Canterbnry Bells; H Orangeas; Odontoglossuma ; The 

 Care of Stock Left Orer. 



