1:34 



HORTICULTURE 



February 4, 1911 



in a temperatuiv of about 55 degrees until tlie plants 

 liave become well establislied, when 50 degrees will be 

 sutticient. It is advisable to encourage a dry and airy 

 atmosphere. To keep the plants from becoming tender 

 and delicate pay attention to the ventilation. Avoid 

 overcrowding on the benches. The tops of the strongest 

 plants can be taken and propagated ; they will make nice 

 plants for bedding. Don't pinch any after the middle 

 of February on your spring flowering stock. 



RAMBLERS FOE EASTER 



These roses that are for Easter should be put into a 

 temperature of from 50 to 55 degrees at night, and every 

 morning if the weather is at all clear give a good syringe 

 to thoroughly dampen tlie wood. Eaise tlie temperature 

 to 58 degrees as soon as the buds begin to break, and this 

 can be maintained until the flower buds appear. It takes 

 about ten weeks to have these in flower, and about a 

 month between the forming of the buds and their matur- 

 ity. So the buds should appear by the 15th of Marcli 

 to be right for this year ; if not, it will be necessary to 

 apply more heat to have them ready for Easter. Ventila- 

 tion and fumigation must go hand in hand in order to 

 avoid attacks of mildew and green fly. 



VIOLETS 



As the days grow sunnier, fires may be lowered during 

 the day so that the temperature will not run too high. 

 It is much safer to run them too low than too high. If 

 the day is bright and warm shut ofE part or all your heat 

 and ventilate. This will keep your plants firm, dark 

 colored and stocky. If they are vigorous and healthy 

 the roots will be searching for some nutriment. A 

 mulch or top dressing of old cow or mushroom manure 

 will be of benefit to them. It is time now to propagate. 

 In looking for cuttings choose only from such plants as 

 are in flrst-class order. A good many growers mark such 

 plants as have produced first-class bloom as to color and 

 size, along with great health and vigor. The parent 

 clump will be throwing thrifty shoots with fine little 

 roots. Fill some flats with well rotted i?od, with about 

 one-fourth well-rotted cow manure, firming it well be- 

 fore pricking them out. For several days they will need 

 careful watering and shading until well established, then 

 give them full light and all the air the weather will 

 permit. Syringe occasionally on bright days. Hold the 

 temperature as near 40 degrees as possible. Fumigate to 

 keep the plants clean of the fly. 



Mr. FarreU's next notes will be on the following: Coelogyne 

 cristnta; Bougainvilleiis for Master; Gardenias; Lilies for Easter; 

 Paiiflanuses; Pelargoniums. 



Acidanthera bicolor 



This rather rare, hardy inmate of the garden resem- 

 bles in leaf and habit the Montbretia ; but has not the 

 erect, stiff form of that bulbous plant. 1'he ground tint 

 of the flower is creamy white, and the markings at the 

 base are reddish brown. They appear in a loose risp to 

 tlie number of 8 or 10 on a stalk. The plant even when 

 in bloom is not a striking one, and when planted in quan- 

 tity it has no dazzling color effects. Its chief charms are 

 the lily-like fragrance of the flower, the markings on the 

 corolla, and its shape. As a flower for cutting it is very 

 durable and readily finds purchasers. The florist will 

 in Acidanthera bicolor find a useful suiiject. 



Fruit and Vegetables Under Glass 



BUD DROPPING ON PEACHES AND NECTARINES 



The dropping of flower buds on peaches and nec- 

 tarines is one of the most lamentable things which a 

 grower has to contend with. It has aptly been described 

 as "being hit in the dark by an unknown hand," and so 

 it is, for one is very much in the dark once they start 

 to drop. It is not like one of the many troubles one 

 can see and fight, knowing you are gaining ground 

 and ultimately exterminating the pest. Once it com- 

 mences the damage is soon done ; one shake of the 

 trellis is suflBcient to bring a shower down and perhaps 

 every flower bud has fallen to the ground in a few days — 

 heartbreaking to the grower, as he is powerless to stop 

 it; nothing can stop it. 



The causes of this are to be found by looking back, 

 probably, some time, and will be the result of either in- 

 sufficient water during the growing or resting period, 

 over-maturity, or excessive bud formation on weak wood. 

 In the first case transpiration has been so rapid during 

 the bright weather that there was not enough sap left 

 to properly mature the bud, consequently it is weak 

 and deformed and drops at the least irregularity of 

 the root action. The second — dryness during the rest- 

 ing period — is the chief cause of buds dropping. Nine 

 eases out of every ten can be traced to tliis, for it is 

 the most critical time during the whole season for a 

 peach or nectarine tree. Carelessness during potting, 

 shifting or root pruning operations is often enough to 

 cause disaster. Never allow the roots to become dry 

 through exposure. Should it be necessary to leave any 

 roots exposed for any length of time when pruning, etc., 

 spray them over and cover up with old blankets or bags. 

 After repotting pot-trees, thoroughly water in. This 

 helps to settle the soil around the roots, after having 

 a severe shaking up. 



Trees in borders, while dormant, are apt to be neg- 

 lected and get too dry. Peach trees will not stand for 

 this as they require moisture right along. Over-ma- 

 turity is sometimes common on very early forced trees. 

 They make up their growth and later the bud. This is 

 subject to so much sun it becomes hard and easily drops. 

 Excessive bud formation occurs on some trees — Elruge 

 nectarine, for instance — and with having so many to 

 carry the least check brings some down. 



A syringe over about three times a week, choosing 

 bright days on which to do it, will be a great assistance, 

 as it helps to keep the buds s"oft and plump. This is 

 especially so where trees have been subject to severe root 

 pruning. Avoid as much as possible excitement of the 

 trees by fluctuations of the temperature and when start- 

 ing into growth, do so gradually. 



POT VINES 



Pot vines will now be making nice growth and should 

 liave a night temperature of 55 to 60 degrees, rising to 

 60 degrees as soon as flower truss shows. Give air on 

 all favorable occasions, which will strengthen the young 

 growth and keep a good moist atmosphere. A light top- 

 dressing of fibrous loam will be beneficial, as it will give 

 th.e roots a little more room. Loam alone should be 

 used, manure being too exciting at this stage. Eods 



