April 15, 1911 



HORTICULTURE 



565 



Fruits and Vegetables Under Glass 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 



Peaches and nectarines which have finished stoning 

 should now have any fruits which are above a crop re- 

 moved before the second swelling commences. Do so 

 by twisting them around until they drop into the hand, 

 otherwise if they are just pulled off so much of the 

 outer bark will be torn off with them. Spread the crop 

 evenly over the tree and do not ask them to carry too 

 many or the next year will show the results of this 

 year's strain in the form of a poor crop. Pot trees will 

 be benefited by having a strong stake put to them and 

 from this the shoots carrying fruit can be supported by 

 a strong piece of raffia. This will keep them from hang- 

 ing down and keep the tree in good shape. Now is the 

 time peaches and nectarines vail stand heat without 

 danger, and if fruit is required as early as possible raise 

 the temperature to 65 degrees to 68 degrees by night 

 and run up well with sun heat. When closing down in 

 the afternoon the house can be run up to 90 degrees 

 providing plenty of moisture is kept around. Syringe 

 thoroughly morning and afternoon and give plenty of 

 feeding until the fruit shows signs of coloring. Quick- 

 acting manures are to be preferred, as some varieties 

 take only a few weeks to complete their second swell- 

 ing. The trees derive much benefit by placing a zinc 

 rim four inclies deep around the top of the pot and fill- 

 ing this with half decayed cow manure (as seen in illus- 

 trations of pot peach trees which have appeared in 

 HoKTicuLTURE from time to time). New roots will at 

 once run up into this, feeding from it as they go and 

 are near the surface should other manure be applied. 



SIZE VERSUS FL-WOR IN MELONS 



These are the two most essential points in most fruits, 

 especially so to those who are fortunate enough to eat 

 them, in competition they play an important part in 

 conjunction with shape, color, finish, etc. In melons 

 the two qualities seem very averse to each other. No 

 other fruit loses its flavor so quick and we often see 

 fine, large specimens, grand to look at, but, oh, the 

 taste ! This accounts for what we often see on the 

 show tables, a small fruit given the preference to a 

 larger one. We all like to make the most of size, but 

 if this is going to ruin the flavor what is gained ? For, 

 after all, the old proverb, "Goodness lies in a small 

 compass," has got a say. Now, to obtain size it is often 

 necessary to apply stimulating manures which seem to 

 deteriorate the flavor, especially if applied after netting 

 of the fruit commences; but as the better growing 

 weather is coming on it will not be necessary to feed 

 so much. Encourage the plants to grow and swell as 

 many fruits as they will up to four and use no more 

 manure than the plants require to keep them robust, 

 as a highly fed plant is liable to grow a large and flavor- 

 less fruit. Feeding moderately with suitable manures 

 will be beneficial to plants carrying three or four fruits 

 each and will not impair the flavor if stopped in time. 

 Give as much air as possible as the fruits commence to 

 ripen and keep the plant slightly drier at the roots. Some 

 growers nearly dry them off, but there is nothing to be 

 gained by this. In melon gi-owing under glass flavor 

 should be considered first, and varieties which serve 



up the best should be grown. These may differ with 

 different growers as no two men use the same methods; 

 one man may turn out a better flavored medium-sized 

 melon with his method than his neighbor on another 

 establishment and perhaps both using the same variety. 

 These peculiarities should be noticed and preference 

 given to the better flavored varieties. Superlative and 

 Sutton's Perfection will be found good. 



STOPPING AND TYING VINES 



This is a thing wliich commands a good deal of at- 

 tention where vines are grown on the short-spur system. 

 Rods, after breaking should be gradually released from 

 the ties which have kept them in a bending position — 

 the object having been to push so much sap into the 

 base buds, otherwise these would not break for some 

 time after those at the apex. It is not advisable to tie 

 them up to their permanent position right away, but 

 allow the young growths to become accustomed to their 

 new positions and when they have righted themselves 

 make the main stems or rods secure with strong string. 

 Lateral growths will soon make headway. If two 

 ■ihould be coming away from the same spur remove the 

 weaker one. Do not be in a hurry to tie these young 

 growths into position so long as they are far enough 

 from the glass; let them grow as they will. A mistake 

 is often made by trying to tie these down too soon 

 and the consequence is they break off. Nothing is 

 gained by tying these down, so why risk a break? The 

 l)unch itself will bring them down and the laterals 

 which are not carrying fruit can be brought down later. 

 The only danger in so doing is that if the wires are 

 too near the glass the young growths are liable to burn 

 with strong sun. Leaders on young vines should not be 

 cropped but let grow away. As the bunch makes its ap- 

 pearance stop two leaves beyond it ; this concentrates the 

 same into it. Any sublaterals which make growth after 

 this should be rubbed out altogether between the spur 

 and bunch and those beyond the bunch should be 

 stopped at one leaf. 



LATE VINES 



Late vines which are intended for keeping as late as 

 possible should now have the border soaked, as root 

 action will have commenced and they cannot be held 

 longer without causing the bud to deteriorate. Bend 

 the rods over to ensure an even break and do not let 

 the temperature go below 40 degrees at niglit. Syringe 

 twice daily in good weather. Ventilators can still be 

 left open, as no harm will be done to the young growths 

 for a time if they are l^rought up to plenty oi fresh air. 



STRAWBERRIES 



The last patches of strawberries will now be coming 

 into flower. It is not necessary to keep all the flowers 

 until after they are set as a set is sure now and so 

 many flowers only take so much vitality from the plant. 

 Remove all the weaker buds before they open, especially 

 those which are a side growtli from another stronger 

 flower. If ten or twelve of the strongest flowers are 

 left to open a crop is pretty sure. Wlien set, reduce to 

 six and push them right away. After swelling, fruit 

 should be fed two or three times a week, but discon- 

 tinue on first signs of coloring; after this give plenty 

 of air and liffht. 



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