April 22, 1911 



H O K T 1 C U L T U R i; 



AOS 



This idea was first publicly advocated over a year ago 

 in one of the Boston dailies in giving an account of an 

 interview with Mr. John K. M. L. Farquhar, who sug- 

 gested filling up the present lake in the Public Gar- 

 den, and building on its site such a gigantic glass 

 structure. 



"The lake in the public garden is in no way attractive, 

 as it is at present," said Mr. Farquhar. "But it has a 

 central location, and other facilities are afforded which 

 make possible improvements on an extensive scale, which 

 will make a public garden in reality that will be a credit 

 to Boston. My proposal is that a building somewhat like 

 the Crystal Palace, Loudon, be erected. It would he per- 

 haps in the form of an immense glass-covered conserva- 

 tory. The interior appearance would be that of a tropical 

 grove, through which run promenades. One or two band- 

 stands might be erected and seats and tables provided 

 where the people might read. 



"An important feature would be miniature playgrounds 

 here and there for the smaller children, and there would 

 be restaurants, where good food might be bought at reas- 

 onable prices. The Palmen Garten in Frankfort, Germany, 

 is a fair example of the thing I propose. Some kind of 

 recreation place where large numbers of poor people 

 could come in winter or summer for free amusement 1 

 think should be provided. The Crystal Palace in London 

 will accommodate 50,000 people; we might construct a 

 similar building in Boston to accommodate from 25,000 to 

 30,000. I would think that for such a cause it would be 

 justifiable to use a part of the income from the Parkman 

 fund." 



Fruits and Vegetables Under Glass 



WATERING BORDERS 



With increasing sun power and more fully developed 

 foliage and fruit to be supported by the roots, borders 

 will be drying out much oftener than they have been. 

 Shallow borders filled with roots will need examining 

 every few days, as any lack of moisture at the root is 

 detrimental to any fruit that the trees may be carrying. 

 As is the case with watering a bench or pot, these will 

 need enough water to soak them through, should any 

 attempt be made to water them. Do not give enough to 

 dampen the top or perhaps half way down and leave the 

 rest underneath dry. In this way some roots are left 

 to die or only perform half their duties. In growing 

 houses where a humid atmosphere is needed it is an ex- 

 cellent thing to thoroughly damp the whole surface of 

 border once a day — preferably soon after noon. Let the 

 hose. run long enough for water to run into the surface 

 nearly an inch. This has two points to recommend it, 

 viz. : humidity will be continually rising from this 

 damped surface and through the night there will be suf- 

 ficient moisture in the house to keep down red spider. 

 Secondly, surface roots are encouraged and they will 

 always find nutriment from the surface soil and the air. 

 Later as mulchings are applied tliis will keep the mulch 

 in a suitable state for the roots to work into. If this 

 surface damping is practised see that it is not over- 

 done and you are given false impressions as to the state 

 of the soil underneath. With the surface being moist 

 one is apt to forget what may be underneath. The 

 date of last watering put down on the back of memoran- 

 dum boards will often be of assistance. No law can be 

 laid down as to how often, to water fruit borders. The 

 question is often asked by amateurs and no satisfactory 

 answer can be given. Water when they need it and 

 when doing so do it well. If any doubt exists as to 

 what state any border may be in insert a piece of thin 

 iron or very strong wire for a few hours and examine 

 as it is witbdrawn. 



Fias 



Pots or tubs which are swelling a crop will need a top 



dressing. Half decayed cow manure laid lightly on the 

 surface will be relished by the ever-seeking feeding root 

 of a fig. Roots will grow through this as it decays and 

 if necessary more can be added to it later until at the 

 end of the season it will be one net-work of fibrous 

 roots. This was my reason for advocating in an earlj 

 issue of Horticulture making borders for fig houses a 

 few inches below what is their level, as the same thing 

 happens there once they are filled with roots. The fig 

 is one of the most peculiar plants we have both in taste 

 and its mode of formation. In nearly every other fruit 

 we get a flower first and the fruit really is nothing more 

 than part of the flower, i. e., the ovary which at the 

 time the flower expanded contained sacks of ovules. 

 These were fertilized by the pollen grains that attach 

 themselves to the stigma, germinate and are passed 

 down to the ovules. After this a swelling of the ovary 

 commences and the petals, stamens and pistil gradually 

 wither and fall away. In Ficus carica the small fruit 

 form in the axils of the leaves and are half developed 

 before they flower. It needs a close inspection to dis- 

 cover when a fig is in flower; the eye of the fruit will 

 open to admit a little air and assume a pinkish color. 

 This should be noted and syringing discontinued for a 

 few days as the similar functions take place in the 

 formation of a fig as any other fruit, but the formation 

 is more complicated. Trees will sometimes cast their 

 first crop after partly developing them; about the time 

 of flowering the fruits assumed a sickly yellowish hue 

 and drop off. This is a more general occurrence with 

 first crops than the second and third and is generally 

 due to poorly ripened wood caused by over-crowding. 

 Other irregularities may cause it, such as dryness at 

 the roots, or in the atmosphere and cold draughts. If 

 a tree is kept in good growing condition this will be 

 avoided. 



APPLES AND PEARS 



Apples and pears having half-developed fruit will 

 need continual feeding. Take off any superfluous fruits 

 — do not overcrop especially if grown in small pots. 

 Stop young growths at four leaves and continue to do 

 so, as this throws more sap into the fruit as well as 

 causing better flower bud formation later on. Give 

 plenty of light and syringe continuously twice a day, 

 closing down to one inch early enough to allow the 

 house to run up to 80 to 85. Support any weak growths 

 which may be bearing fruit and give a liberal supply of 

 water to the roots at all times. 



ORCHARD HOUSE TREES 



These will now be swelling away. It is not advisable 

 to hurry any stone fruit too much before it has stoned, 

 consequently plums, cherries, nectarines, etc., will be 

 better to have a temperature of 55 by night with usual 

 advance by day. Apples and pears also seem to swell 

 a more even crop if not rushed too much in the early 

 stages. If not already applied, an occasional solution 

 of lime in the water will be beneficial. Green fly is very 

 troublesome in these houses. Good pressure can be used 

 in the hose when syringing and the house must be fumi- 

 gated at intervals. Any later trees which may be ia 

 flower should have a slightly dryer atmosphere for a 

 few hours previous to noon and the trees given a sharp 

 shake to distribute the pollen. 



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