702 



H O R T I C U L T U R E 



May 13, 1911 



ing, but its beauty is much accentuated by the hand- 

 some white, sweetly-scented flowers which ^re fi-eely 

 produced in flat heads at the end of the stems during 

 May. In England this shrub has been largely cultivated 

 for many years, and is perfectly hardy around London, 

 but to see it at its best one must visit the gardens of 

 the south or west. There it is generally grown on a 

 shady wall where it often attains a height of twelve or 

 fifteen feet and the foliage and flower heads are very 

 much larger than they ever appear when grown in bueh 

 form, the latter often measuring from eiglit to ten 

 inches in diameter. In the more favored parts of this 

 country it should be largely grown as a most desirable 

 evergreen but in this locality, of course, it could only 

 be cultivated as a cool greenhouse shrub. Either as a 

 pot subject or for clothing the walls of conservatories 

 it has. few superiors. Propagation is easily effected by 

 inserting cuttings of half-ripened growths and a well- 

 drained loamy soil will suit it to perfection. 



Fruits and Vegetables Under Glass 



YOUNG POT VINES 



These will now be growing freely and will need con- 

 tinual attention keeping them tied into position, stop- 

 ping laterals, etc. The canes should be grown tall 

 enough to suit the house they are to be forced in. Short 

 canes are as serviceable as long ones and it is useless to 

 let them run up further than the desired length. "When 

 this is attained stop them by pinching out the point of 

 the growth. Lateral growths will appear and in due 

 course must be stopped at one leaf. Any growths made 

 beyond this should be rubbed out which will throw 

 more energy into the bud. This is where it is needed. A 

 good plump bud in the fall means a fruiting lateral 

 next spring. 



Give plenty of air to promote a sturdy growth and 

 syringe twice daily using a good force to keep down 

 red spider and other pests. No shade will be necessary 

 for these if proper attention is given to watering. 



PACKING GRAPES ■ 



Grapes are about the worst fruit to pack and ship any 

 distance. The delicate bloom or gloss on the berries 

 being so easily rubbed oS makes them appear unsightly 

 when placed on the table. No damage may be done 

 to the berries and they will eat just as good, but no one 

 likes to see the shiny half of a berry or berries and the 

 remainder still retaining its natural hue. When ship- 

 ping by express it is almost impossible to avoid this as 

 packages are turned upside down and "any old way." 

 If a message can be sent with them all this can be 

 avoided and the fruit served up with scarcely a brush. 

 The mode of packing must necessarily differ. The sim- 

 plest method and one which has been adopted largely 

 by commercial grape growers in England is to use 

 strong willow baskets, being deep enough to allow a 

 bunch to hang down the sides. The top must be con- 

 siderably larger than the bottom, making the sides to 

 slope. The whole inside is lined with cotton wool and 

 a double thickness of oil paper placed on top of this. 

 The bunch can now be laid on the sides fastening se- 

 curely (the lateral cut with the bunch) to the top side 

 of basket, placing a piece of paper between each bunch. 

 Baskets made to hold four or five bunches will be found 

 most serviceable. If one can be sure of their being kept 

 the right side up no further packing is needed other 



than some strong paper placed over the top, sewing it 

 to the sides to keep it in position. Strings can be run 

 across the top of the paper if thought necessary. Tliis 

 is the best method of packing grapes when sending 

 by messenger. There is little trouble to it once the bas- 

 kets are lined and very few berries are noticeably rubbed. 

 A few baskets can be made large enough to hold the 

 daily shipment. 



Where boxes have to be used and packing from aU 

 sides is necessary it is impossible to retain very much 

 bloom. Something has to touch the berries to keep 

 them in position and once touched by anything the 

 bloom is sure to go and leave the shiny surface. Deep 

 boxes should be used and packing material placed in the 

 corner made by the bottom and the side so as to form a 

 slanting side. Cover this over with paper and place 

 the bunches in, securing the top with string which is 

 pushed through holes previously made in sides near the 

 top. If both sides are used do not place the bunches 

 opposite to each other; angle them. Place a separate 

 piece of paper over each bunch and fill in with cotton 

 wool. In all cases see that the bunch is hanging from 

 the piece of wood that was cut with it. This keeps the 

 top from moving and the whole from falling down in a 

 heap. Shipping grapes for exhibition is a different mat- 

 ter and is not meant to come under this heading. 



EARLY FORCED APPLES AND PEARS 



These will now be finishing and should be placed 

 where they can have all the sunlight and air possible. 

 Cease feeding, but an occasional syringe will be bene- 

 ficial. If the weather permits and a suitable position 

 can be given them these can be finished outside. Plunge 

 the pots to the rim to keep them from being blown over 

 and drying out. Give a good supply of water right 

 along. Do not neglect any peaches or nectarines that 

 may have finished a crop. See that they are kept watered 

 and the foliage free from insect pests. 



YOUNG FIGS 



Young figs propagated in the early spring will need 

 shifting on into "eights." Take care that the ball is 

 moist before repotting and water in soon after potting. 

 Trees swelling their second crop should have feed when 

 watering. Liquid cow manure will suit them. Trees in 

 pots or tubs will take any quantity of feed. The small 

 quantity of soil is soon deprived of its nutriments, and 

 must be continually restored to obtain the best results. 

 Continue to stop the growths at four leaves and syringe 

 with force to prevent pests getting a foothold. 



LATE VINES 



Late vines will now be coming into flower. Most of 

 these are free setters so there is no need to fertilize with 

 a brush unless muscats are included. The house can be 

 damped down first thing in the morning and then let 

 go until noon when the rods should have a sharp knock 

 to distribute the pollen, after which tlie house can be 

 damped again. Such varieties as Apply Towers, Gros 

 Colman, Gros Moroc, Alicante (black) and Lady Downes 

 will be found to set as free as Black Hamburgh at this 

 season and should be thinned early as a wait of a few 

 days will mean a tight bunch to commence on with the 

 scissors. 



dp^uL^x^ 



^-^^W., 



Mr. Penson's next uotes win be on tbe following: Spider on 

 Peucb Trees; Packing Melons; Keeping Grapes; The Mixed Or- 

 cliard House; Scorcbing, Scalding and Mildew on Grapes. 



