August 22, 1914 



HOKTICULTURE 



275 



NOTES ON CULTURE OF FLORISTS' STOCK 



CONDUCTED BY 



AV 



^pl.^OA^U// 



Questions by our readers In line with any of the topics presented on this page will be eordliillv received and promptly answered 

 by Mr. Farrell. Such communications should invariably be addressed to the ofUce of HORTICULTURE. 



I OTANICAU 

 OAiiDEN 



Bouvardias 



lu lifting these tropieal plunt.s .save all the roots you 

 can aiul .spray five or si.x times a day for the first week 

 but the need of that will depeiid largely on the weather. 

 If they have been stopped or pinched within a week or 

 two they will not need any more, but if that has been 

 neglected, then pinch the strong, leading shoots as soon 

 as they are established after lifting. They make roots 

 in the pots or lieiieh quicker when surroundings are 

 warm than when chilly. Bouvardias need very careful 

 lifting. If only one crop of flowers is wanted and 

 always easily had for Christmas, they will do very well 

 in 6-inch pots. But in five inches of soil on a bench at 

 GO degrees is much the best place for them, for after a 

 good crop of flowers around the holidays they will make 

 a strong growth and you will get flowers again in March 

 and on. 



Care of Smilax 



Avoid careless watering of smilax, which usually 

 leaves the surface wet, while the under soil remains dry. 

 While smila.x likes moisture it will not stand too much 

 of it, yellow leaves and a sickly growth often resulting. 

 An overmoist condition is likely when the beds are 

 prepared on the ground. Water first around the ball 

 until they begin to fill the soil with roots after which 

 the whole bed can be soaked. Do not fail to give them 

 a good syringing on all bright days. Give plenty of 

 ventilation whenever possible. Provide strings Just as 

 soon as the plants are willing to climb and do not wait 

 until they become iutergrown with one another. When 

 they arc growing well give a nuileh of well-rotted cow 

 manure. 



Chrysanthemums 



General work in the houses now is largely routine, 

 staking plants, tying them up. and keeping the beds 

 sweet and free from weeds by a weekly stirring up. It 

 pays to examine the under siiK- of the foliage once in a 

 while. Manv a stray brood of caterpillers can be picked 

 up in this way, and one can also see where red spider 

 begins to get in its work. About every two weeks use a 

 sprayer that will get right under the foliage, and wash 

 every leaf on the under side. The top side of the foliage 

 may be perfectly clean while on the under side there may 

 be whole colonies of insects. Frequent and copious 

 spraying will kee]) the temperature down to a reasonable 

 point and if this is not done the plants suffer very much 

 under torrid conditions. Clean off any suckers that 

 may be showing round the ])lants, as they help to take 



away the strength from the flowering shoots. 



Mr Farrell'" noxt notes will be on tb<> following: Care of Carnations; Feeding Chrys:uithomums; 

 ■ ■ Siliiziintbus Wisotiinensis; Violets: Ventilatins Orchids. 



Geraniums 



The last week in August we have found to be a good 

 time to take off the first batch of cuttings, in the garden 

 or field. Three or four joints of the leading shoots make 

 ideal cuttings. Never rob a cutting of all its foliage 

 (as I have seen done), nor leave on too many leaves. 

 The two youngest lea\es are enough which will leave 

 two joints without leaves, which should be cut close to 

 the stem and not pulled off. If cuttings are taken early 

 in August, the strong stems you cut back will make a lot 

 of lateral growth which in early September will give an 

 abnndance of the very best of cuttings, which with cooler 

 weather will root with ease, and these cut back plants 

 will be in excellent order to lift and put in pots or plant 

 on a bench for winter propagation. After the one good, 

 thorough watering it is not easy to say when water is 

 needed again. It will depend on how much sun they 

 receive and on the weather, but don't water again until 

 they are decidedly dry. 



Providing Compost 



Nothing impresses me more at the present moment 

 than the great carelessness which many florists display 

 in regard to the supply of soil for next spring and sum- 

 mer's crops, ilany a florist gets along fairly well in 

 his own opinion by scraping up a load of mother earth 

 here and there and adding a large quantity of animal 

 manure. So important is it, and so disastrous is neglect 

 that I feel there is no more timely seasonable hint. 

 Prepare a sufficient quantity of good soil and when 

 spring comes, you will bless yourself. Get the top three 

 inches of a pasture, pile it up in layers six inches in 

 thickness and for every six inches of sod spread three 

 inches of fresh cow manure. If that is not to be had, 

 then short stable manure will do. Build the pile of sod 

 with perpendicular walls and a flat top. If this is done 

 within a few weeks, you will be able, before freezing 

 time comes to cho|) it down and throw it into a long 

 heap, which will thoroughly mix it, and render it fit to 

 use in early spring. 



Propagating Ivy Geraniums 



JIake up some Hals with two or three -inches of sand, 

 having about an inch of crock and soil on the bottom. 

 After the cuttings are placed in the flats give them a 

 good soaking of water. Keep shaded for a short time. 

 When rooted pot olT into small pots using any good com- 

 post. They will do all winter in a cool house where 

 they will have lots of light. 



Planting French Bulbs; 



