March 17, 1917 



HORTICULTURE 



331 



ROSE GROWING UNDER GLASS 



^ CONDUCTED BY 



Questions by our readers In line with any of the topics preseuted on this page will be cordially received and promptly answered 

 by Mr. Kuzlcka. Such communications should Invariably be addressed to the office of HORTICULTUKB. 



Plants for Summer Roses 



There may be several beDclies not doing extra well 

 now, and may happen to be planted to varieties that 

 would do well in the summer. With this to woi-l< on it 

 would be advisable to dry the benches off now, and cut 

 them down as soon as this is done, then start them up 

 again when they are pruned or transplanted. Before 

 beginning to dry the plants off a real good watering 

 should be given, and the houses run a little warmer 

 than usual at night to open as many of the buds as pos- 

 sible, after which the temperature can be gradually re- 

 duced to 45 at night, with 70 in the daytime until the 

 plants dry out fairly well, after which the temperature 

 can l)e allowed to drop down even lowei', both in the 

 daytime and at night. As soon as they are real dry 

 and begin to lose their feaves. begin the cutting down. 

 This should not be done with hedge shears, but with a 

 pair of pruning shears, making the cuts so that the eyes 

 will be left where they are most needed. If the soil is 

 very old and worn out it will pay tn take the plants out 

 and set them into the walks. This work will have to 

 be done carefully so that the roots will not be torn all 

 to pieces when they are being dug out. The old soil 

 can then be wheeled out. the benches thoroughly 

 cleaned and whitewashed and new soil brought in, 

 whicli should contain plenty of manure, as the [ihints 

 will take it up before winter comes. However, be very 

 careful to have the plants well dried off before they are 

 disturbed in any way. If they are not dry enough, 

 there will be trouble when it comes to sta.rting them 

 again, as they will come up weak and sickly as a rule. 

 After they are planted, being careful to firm the soil 

 around the roots well, they should receive a real good 

 watering to settle the soil around them, after which 

 they Mill be watered only around the plant until they 

 have more growth and roots. After the watering it 

 will be necessary to see that they are sprayed five or six 

 times a day — sprayed, not syringed or watered. This 

 will mean that the water is broken up as fine as is pos- 

 sible, and thrown over the plants so as to moisten all 

 the wood without wetting the soil to any extent. To 

 do this right it will lie necessary to move riglit along 

 with the liose, walking fast, and using good pressure, 

 in order to get as fine a spray as possible. As soon as 

 the young shoots begin to push out be careful to see 

 that the jilants are wet enough when they are sjiraycd 

 or syringed, or the leaves are likely to burn. Tlien 

 when the buds begin to appear, disbud them at once, so 

 that they will go right on growing without the least 

 check. As more and more growth comes on give more 

 and more water, being careful to watch the roots, which 

 will sliow how mucii of the soil around each plant 

 should be we{. Water about half an incli UKirc tbaii the 



tips of the roots. This will not keep thp roots back and 

 at the same time the soil will not be too wet, and getting 

 sour. , 



Care of the Walks 



Walks are an important part of the greenhouse and 

 should not be neglected, and as soon as they get wet and 

 slippery, a little sand should be applied, filling in all 

 the low places with a.shes first. A wet slippery walk is 

 dangerous, and if a man has to watch his feet when he 

 is watering or syringing, he cannot pay proper attention 

 to his work and chances are there will be some dry spots 

 here and there or that spider will be appearing where 

 it is not expected. It will be healthier not only 

 for the rose plants but also for the men to have the 

 walks dry, and keeping the plants and the men con- 

 tented is a great part of the rose growing game. 



Disbudding Potted Beauties 



Go over all the potted stock at least once a week :ind 

 make sure that all the buds are pinched out as they 

 should be. This applies especially to American Beau- 

 ties, which will suffer more than any other variety if 

 they are neglected in this respect. Be sure to take the 

 buds with one leaf or at least down to a good leaf. A 

 poor leaf has only three leaflets and is found right near 

 the bud. If this were left on with the eye at its stem 

 the growth that would come from it would amount to 

 very little as another bud would form almost at once. 

 If the bud is taken where it sliould be the growth that 

 will come will shoot up^ a little way before another bud 

 forms, thus making the plant a little taller. Do not 

 allow the buds to remain until they are well fonned, as 

 the joints that would form after the buds are taken 

 would be very hard, making it a difficult matter for the 

 sap to get through to the upper part of the plant. 



Philadelphus coronarius 



Philadelphus coronarius, commonly known as Syringa 

 or Mocl^ Orange, is a very old favorite in gardens, hav- 

 ing been introduced from southern Europe in 1596. It 

 is still one (if the most beautiful of all summer flower- 

 ing shrubs and, as will be seen from the cover illustra- 

 tion of this issue, is capable of making a very hand- 

 some specimen when planted where suflScient space can 

 be o-iven to permit of unrestricted growth. The I'liil- 

 .-idelphus familv has received considerable attention from 

 the hvbridists during recent years and there are now 

 many hybrids and varieties of great value which, taken 

 collectively, form one of the most beautiful and useful 

 groups of all hardy flowering shnibs. 



Hill- /[iirhor. Me. 



