582 



HOBTICULTURE 



May 5, 1917 



seed. The sowing should be done in a 

 shed, and only as many pans as is in- 

 tended to be sown with one seed pod 

 should be in the shed during the opera- 

 tion. Then take each one separately 

 and sow sparingly, immediately placing 

 them back in the cases. Put a glass 

 over each pan for the first three days, 

 and keep cases closed up. After the 

 third day remove the glasses, and on 

 the fourth day and henceforth a little 

 air may be admitted into the case, in- 

 creasing the amount day by day. 

 Never for a moment let the seed be- 

 come dry — an occasional spray will en- 

 sure against. The progress of germina- 

 tion may be closely watched as the 

 seed is never hidden from view. 



The first sign of germination is the 

 swelling of the seed, which gradually 

 turns green, and becomes almost globu- 

 lar. Then very fine hair roots make 

 their appearance, and as soon as the 

 latter appear they should be pricked off 

 with a sharp-pointed bone needle on 

 to some prepared pans, the compost 

 consisting of peat and sphagnum moss, 

 packed very closely and evenly. Place 

 about a hundred of the small seed- 

 lings on each pan, still keeping them 

 in the cases, and after a few days 

 these will swell tremendously, pushing 

 up minute leaves, and also sending out 

 small roots. In a few weeks these 

 should again be removed, and about 

 seven or ten placed in a small pot, 

 with a little coarser compost of the 

 same material. As they continue to 

 grow they can afterwards be potted 

 singly, and subjected to a little cooler 

 treatment. Extreme care must be 

 taken at all times that these small 

 plants never be allowed to become dry, 

 or they will shrivel up and Ije lost. 

 When once they are established, pot 

 them on as often as necessary; but al- 

 ways encourage them to make their 

 growths at the proper seasons. After 

 the first year they will thrive on fresh 

 air, warmth, plenty of light, and abund- 

 ance of water when growing. After 

 five or six years they will be sufficient- 

 ly large enough to flower. 

 Laelias. 



This is one of the easiest of all 

 species to raise, the reason being the 

 excellent quality of seed it invariably 

 yields. The same system may be adopt- 

 ed as with Cattleyas, except in the 

 material used for making up the pans, 

 which may be superseded with oak 

 leaves. The latter must be washed and 

 cleaned, and aftervi^ards dried in the 

 open. Place them in an upright posi- 

 tion, moderately tight, to a depth of 

 an inch and a half in Ihe pans, and 

 then stretch the canvas over. Water 

 the prepared pans heavily the day be- 

 fore it is intended to sow, and spray 

 lightly about half an hour before sow- 

 ing. Sow the seed much thinner than 

 in Cattleyas, spray oftener, and splen- 

 did results will follow. 



Cymbidiums. 



The seed of this species is very 

 much larger than that of the majority 

 of Orchids, and can be watched very 

 easily from the moment it is sown. 

 Precisely the same method may be 

 adopted as with Cattleyas, with a 

 temperature of 6.5 deg. by day, and 

 lowering to 60 deg. at night. Give an 

 abundance of water with a fine sprayer, 

 dip occasionally, and admit air when 

 favorable. 



Dendrobiums. 

 Here again the same system as with 

 Cattleyas will give abundant crops. The 

 following alteration only is required: 

 Instead of Polypodium fibre, use Os- 

 munda; pack very closely, leaving a 

 rough surface, then stretch the can- 

 vas tightly over the compost, pressing 

 it well down between the side of the 

 pan and the compost. 



Odontoglossumsi. 



In former years this species was 

 very difficult to procure from seed, but 

 it is now being raised very freely by 

 several different methods, of which I 

 give two. Both of these produce ex- 

 cellent results. The first one is to 

 select a quantity of well-rooted plants. 

 Pot them in a mixture of Osmunda 

 fibre and Polypodium fibre, with a 

 small quantity of sphagnum moss and 

 a slight sprinkling of silver sand. The 

 surface of the material should be 

 about half an inch below the rim of 

 the pot, and the plants well watered. 

 About a week after potting is the best 

 time to sow the seed, taking care that 

 the material is very moist before do- 

 ing so. Sow thinly, and take care no 

 other plants are near. After sowing, 

 a slight spray will be of advantage, 

 and then place the plants in a tempera- 

 ture of 55 deg. to 60 deg., which may 

 lower to 50 deg. or 55 deg. at night. 

 Give plenty of air, and protect from 

 bright sunlight. January and Febru- 

 ary are the two best months for sow- 

 ing. 



The second method is to pot the 

 plants in oak leaves, with a covering 

 of clean sphagnum moss. The latter 

 must have all heads and dead ends re- 

 moved, chopped up very finely, and 

 placed on the surface not more than a 

 quarter of an inch in depth. This may 

 be put on very easily if it is soddened 

 with water. The seed may be sown 

 the following day, and must never for 

 a moment become dry, especially when 

 germination has commenced. As soon 

 as a minute leaf appears, they should 

 be pricked off with great care, and 

 placed into small pots or pans, about 

 an eighth of an inch apart. The com- 

 post on which they are fixed must con- 

 sist of three parts of Polypodium fibre, 

 one part of finely chopped sphagnum 

 moss, potted firmly, with an even sur- 

 face. Place the seedlings in minute 

 cavities, so that they do not get wash- 

 ed away when watering or dipping, 

 either of which may be adopted. After 

 the seedlings begin to throw out their 

 roots, it is beneficial to again move 

 them, and replace them further apart 

 on freshly prepared pots of the same 

 compost, extreme care being taken not 

 to damage the roots. It is of extreme 

 importance also that tliey should never 

 become dry — a great many more die 

 from drought than over-watering. 

 When the leaves are about a half-inch 

 long, they may be potted singly in 

 thimble pots; and when once they be- 

 come rooted and established, pot them 

 on as often as they require it, until 

 finally they push up their spikes and 

 develop their blooms. 



•Sophronitis. 



Although this is a cool species, it re- 

 quires a much warmer temperature to 

 mature from seed to perfection. The 

 following method is a very recommend- 

 able one: Take some round blocks of 



wood about ten inches in circumfer- 

 ence, and cut across the grain to a 

 depth of about half an inch, leaving 

 a rough surface. Make a hole about 

 three-quarters of an inch in diameter 

 in the centre; then place on a layer of 

 crocks in a small pot or pan, making 

 it secure by wedging a few small crocks 

 round the side. Soak with water, and 

 afterwards sow the seed very sparingly 

 all around. Place a piece of glass 

 (which may be supported by a small 

 label on the rim of the pot) above the 

 wood, being careful that the glass Is 

 about half an inch above the seed, the 

 latter being kept moist by t'^e use of a 

 fine sprayer for the first three weeks, 

 after which they may be watered with 

 a fine rose. When germination sets in 

 they must never be alIoT\'ed to be- 

 come dry, and when large enough to 

 handle, they can be pricked off and 

 placed into small pots, the compost 

 consisting of polypodium fibre and 

 sphagnum moss, finely chopped, with 

 a small quantity of silver sand added. 

 As the plants become stronger they 

 can be removed into fresh pots of the 

 same compost, and potted on as often 

 as they require it until they reach the 

 flowering stage. A temperature from 

 60 deg. to 65 deg. at all times is bene- 

 ficial, and should be heavily shaded 

 during the hot summer months. 

 Phaius. 



Splendid crops of this may be obtain- 

 ed by sowing on the surface of pots 

 containing healthy plants of the same 

 species. The plants must be dipped 

 for the first few weeks after sowing, 

 so that the seed is not washed away; 

 and the seedlings may be left where 

 they grow until they are large enough 

 to be placed singly in small pots. A 

 temperature of 60 deg. to 65 deg by 

 day, and 50 deg. to 55 deg. at night is 

 sufficient. 



Sobralias. 



Prepare small pans about three-quar- 

 ters full of sphagnum moss, with all 

 the heads carefully removed. Stretch 

 some coarse canvas over, and water 

 heavily so that it gets well settled 

 Then sow the seed, place in a tempera- 

 ture of 65 deg. to 70 deg., keep well 

 sprayed, and when large enough to 

 prick off, place into small pans of sphag- 

 num moss with a little peat added 

 Repot them as often as they require 

 It, each time giving them a little more 

 peat and fibrous loam. 



Zygopetalums. 



If the seed is sown in pots contain- 

 ing good, healthy plants and the plants 

 watered cautiously, a plentiful supply 

 of seedlings will be obtained. These 

 niay be left undisturbed until they are 

 large enough to be placed in thimble 

 pots. A temperature of 55 deg to 60 

 deg. during the day and 50 deg. to 55 

 deg. at night being sufficient. There 

 are many other species, most of which 

 may be obtained by the above-mention- 

 ed methods. For instance, Calanthes 

 may be raised in the same way as 

 Phaius: Brassavolas will come up just 

 as freely as Lselias; Thunias or Van- 

 das may be successfully dealt with by 

 the same method as Sobralias Any- 

 one- paying a visit to the extensive 

 nurseries of Messrs. Sander & Sons 

 St. Albans and Bruges, may at various 

 seasons of the year see most of the 

 above modern methods in operation. 

 Waltee Gott. 



